Captain Albert Schoonderbeek

Sometimes the best is saved for last and this was certainly the case this time. With the cruise slowly coming to an end, the transits of today were a big highlight of the cruise. We had sun shine all day and the thus all the sights were clearly visible, as the cruise schedule had been planned in such a way that both transits would be made during day light. For somebody who would follow the ship from a distance it would look rather strange. On departure from Sevastopol we went full ahead crossing the Black Sea. Then for the transit of the Bosporus we went slow with an average speed of 14 knots and then we cranked the Prinsendam up again to full ahead for the crossing of the Sea of Marmara; and then we went down again to 14 knots for the Dardanelles. Once clear of the strait we continued with a speed with 18 knots for an early arrival in Piraeus. To a cargo ship captain this would never make sense.

At the decent time of 08.15 we arrived at Turkili lighthouse at the North entrance of the Bosporus to pick up the pilot. Contrary to the Dardanelles, Pilotage is compulsory here for all ships and with the many ships passing, each day around 150, pilot boats were racing hither and dither to service the ships coming by. About 75 ships were at anchor waiting for a transit but as we are a passenger ship, the scheduling of all the transits is arranged around our arrival time. There is only one sort of ship more important and that is a gas tanker. Then they close the strait down for all traffic.

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Captain Albert Schoonderbeek

After our midnight exit from the Bosporus we entered the Black Sea on an easterly course. We hugged the Turkish coast for the whole day as our next port of call Trabzon is located in Turkey in the South East corner of the black sea. Thus we followed the coast in a more or less straight line and depending on the contours of the coast it was sometimes closer and some times further away. It also gave us the chance to find out if the Black Seas was really black. Well it is not, it is more brownish. However the people who named it found the waters black so they called it the Black Sea. The Romans spoke about the friendly sea because of its fertile waters.

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Captain Albert Schoonderbeek

In most cities things quiet down during the night, but Istanbul, together with New York and Hong Kong never seems to slow down. I was expected that the traffic on the river would come to a standstill during the night, apart from the thru traffic in the Bosporus but not at all. Maybe the total count of the local ferries went down but the river looked as busy at 11 pm in the evening as it had been at 3 pm. yesterday when we arrived. The big-a-boate mentioned yesterday arrived indeed and thus there were three cruise ships in port today. Ranging from the very big Costa liner with 2,500 via the Prinsendam of 800 to the very small Minerva with less than 300 guests on board.

Apart from the fact that Istanbul is safe to explore on foot by your self, it is a great port for shore excursions. The Ottoman Empire and the Roman Empire before have left such a rich heritage that even a week of intensive sightseeing would not even scratch the surface. Most of our guests were indeed up and away on shore excursions although quite a few were tempted by the souks and the good shopping that is available. For the shopping, it is not only the guests who take advantage of Istanbul, so does the crew. Officially or privately. If you are looking for something that is made in Turkey, either because it originates here or if it is made here under license, the prices are good to very good. If it has been made outside Turkey then the prices can be very high due to import taxes and then it is better to steer clear.

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Captain Albert Schoonderbeek

The Dardanelles are of course in Turkey but to get there you have to sail through the Greek islands. Some of those islands are much closer to Turkey than they are to Greece. On the west of an island it might be 10 miles away from the nearest other Greek island but less then a mile away from the Turkish mainland coast. As there is sometimes a bit of friction between Greece and Turkey, just think about the Cyprus issue, it is amazing to see how much the two countries are intertwined as far as their border is concerned and how well it all works. At least for us. Thus we made our way towards the Dardanelles by sailing around several Greek islands to get here.

To make the schedule to Istanbul on time, I had to go through the Dardanelles fairly early otherwise I would have been late in Istanbul. However by doing the first leg a bit slower and by going after the passage full out, the ship could pass the entrance at sunrise and do the complete passage at daylight. The guests will be able to see the passage on the way down at a more decent time but the early birds had the option for an early morning view as well now. Pilotage is not compulsory for every ship that goes through but for certain ships it is and for others it is highly recommend by the authorities who are very eager to have as few collisions and other mayhem as possible. I always take a pilot at the Dardanelles not because I am not capable of doing it myself but because the Dutch law requires it.

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Captain Albert Schoonderbeek

Today we visited the first Turkish port of our cruise. After Kusadasi; Istanbul, Trabzon and Sinop will follow. Kusadasi is the port of entry for the tours to Ephesus; known from the Biblical days of the apostle Paul. Apart from that main attraction, the area has several other things on offer, not the least the good shopping that is available in the town, with the emphasis on leather. A number of years ago they built two new finger piers here and since then the calls by cruise ships have more than quadrupled. There are days when all piers are full and occasionally a ship might even have to anchor. The town it takes its name from a little island to the West of the port. Translated Kusadasi means Bird Island. Nowadays this island is connected by a causeway with the main land so that the castle on it is much easier to get to so it is not really an island anymore. Since last year the promenade in front of the port even boosts a Dutch Restaurant, with real Dutch coffee so Kusadasi is really getting there.

Overview from when the piers were built. On the concrete area at the end of the piers, the cruise terminal was built. Photo courtesy Kusadasi Port Authority/from my port database.

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