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Ocean Liner History and Stories from the Sea, Past and Present. With an In Depth focus on Holland America Line

Category: Shore Excursions (page 2 of 4)

2025 Sep. 20; Zadar Croatia.

It is only 120 miles from Opitija to Zadar and thus we are basically coast hopping from district town to district town

Today we are in Zadar Croatia, a nice old town going back to the Roman Days. When you walk around the pedestrianized roads in the centre of the City, it feels like a mini Dubrovnik. The main difference  is that the town has been laid out on the side of the old Roman forum of which has been excavated and some pillars still stand.

But we started the day with enjoying our balcony with a nice cup of tea and fruit. With soo much food going around in the ship we decided to reduce our calorie intake by having only a small breakfast.  And then it started to rain. Not from the skies but from the window wash basket running by on a rail above us. Normally with window washing and/or balcony scrubbing you get a notice in the cabin but nothing in this case and suddenly water came cascading down. A shout from me stopped it but by that time computer and cell phone were wet. Luckily not damaged. Other balconies suffered worse and tables, chairs and the cushions were all soaking wet, all along the portside of the ship. Nice for the guests when they come back from shore and have to sit with their bums on wet cushions. So before we went ashore we stopped by our Guest Relation Lady, who was suitably embarassed and shocked. I think we are not her favourite guests anymore, but if you do not let them know, then they can not improve their product. So she was going to have a word with the Staff Captain.

“home made ” rain on the balcony. Refreshing but not good for my laptop.

A very nice thing, at least we like it, is that there are no announcements. There is only the arrival announcement, when at anchor, for open tenders and at departure a few wise words from the captain. For the rest it is all peace and quiet and the ship runs by the daily program. The program is made up of two parts. Basically an A4 (legal for the Americans) size paper folded double with the opening times of all the venues and the regular advertisements for the concesionnaires. (Tonight the highlight was a Sun Glasses pop-up by the shops) then there is an insert which lists hour by hour of what there is going on from early morning to late at night. And that is enough to get around without missing anything. We were very happy with this during our cruise with the Germans on the Amera, six weeks ago, and now we have it here as well. Wonderful.

The St. Donalds or St Donatus Church from around 800 AD. Behind it the Zadar St. Anastasia Cathedral and to the left of the yellow marquee one of the very few Roman pillars still standing. The stones in the foreground are parts of the Roman Forum that was excavated.

Because we are a small ship, we docked in downtown. There were two bigger ships in port, a MSC ship and an Celebrity one, but they docked so far away that they needed shuttle buses to get their guests to downtown. Those buses all stopped in front of our ship; good advertisement for Azamara. Go small and you Go downtown. And we were really in downtown, to the Roman Forum was less than 5 minutes away and the old town, next to it, 7 minutes,  Apart from the forum the place is dominated by the Church of St. Donald / Donatus which was built around 800 AD, partially with stones pilfered from the old Roman buildings around the Forum. So in the end there were only a few pillars left standing.

All these stones were once part of various buildings that made up the Roman Forum. Some  have inscriptions that are still clearly visible.

Looking at those was enough culture for the day. The Romans ran a very standardized empire, so a ruin in England is the same as a ruin in Germany or in  France, Italy or Zadar. With some small local variations of  course,  Her ladyship was more interested in the little shops in the alleyways. Plenty or restaurants as well and also two Candy shops, so I assume that the Zadarians have a sweet tooth. Thus we had a look at the $ 3000,— gold chains and other jewelry but matrimonial peace was restored as in the end only a soup spoon was bought (we have about 40 hanging in our kitchen at home) and a few bags of Lavender. The south of France is well known for Lavender but the Zadar area is very good as well and apart from little bags, they sold it in combination with a small bottle of essence to revitalize the lavender dish or bag at home.

One off the small streets in Zadar. Quite narrow and some made even more narrow as local restaurants had put their tables and chairs in the street.

By 1500 hrs. we were back, just on time, as it was getting very warm on a sunny and windless day like this. Although Saturday, there were no locals to be seen, only the cruise ship hordes. The locals waited to about an hour before sunset and then came out in droves to see sunset.

Waiting for Sunset. Saturday evening and the locals (and also tourists of course) streamed to the waterside to watch sunset over the islands off Zadar. The light blue circle is called the “Greeting to the Sun” and is 22 meters in diameter. With photovoltaic sun ray absorption it comes to life after dark and then shows vivid swirling colors with an ever changing display. The ship had a organized a “Balkan Buffet” around the pool and set up tables and chairs to enjoy all the food. The buffet was very elaborate and very well done. Also the drinks were flowing freely and a local duo had been hired to provide Croatian music (which seemed to include Beatles & Billy Joel songs as well ………, but who cares, they sounded very good) I think that about 50% of the guests attended, just enough to fill the deck. The rest must have been in the two Speciality Restaurants (Steak or Italian) or had taken room service, as we saw the last tour bus coming back at 18.45 and they all looked quite knackered.

The “Greeting to the Sun” now in full action.

By this time we were sitting down for the Balkan Buffet on Deck 9 & 10 around the midships pool area. Good music,  good company with friendly and attentive crew was very really nice. Captain, Cruise Director  and Hotel Manager were standing in a far corner but ready to talk to the guests which was appreciated. Azamara makes this a point of their product, so I assume that “being out and about” during part of the day, is calculated into the captains working hours. With Holland America and the 400 emails a day and all the side duties, captains who would like to socialize a bit more hardly have the time, as the job is very much turning into a Process Operator, instead being a Captain in Command and Host of the Ship. It seems that Azamara has gone the other way.

Overview on top deck, just when the buffet opened. All the tables would fill up quite quickly.

On the starboard side of this deck around the pool, which is called The Patio, is a hamburger & ice cream bar called Top & Swirl and here the Executive Chef had created a buffet with several food stations. Salad Bar, Bread and Cheese section, Hot food, Roasted pig station, barbecue and a dessert station.

The dessert section with a wide range of pastries including Backlava, On the photo the pastry chef to the left and the ships Executive Chef to the right.

As the ship has a high space ratio of 42 (= elbow room on the tonnage) it never feels crowded, not even when there are a lot of people milling around. So  with half the ship being present there were still no lines to get to the buffet stands.

The buffet area with all the food.

A lot of local specialities were made available which included local sausage in all it forms and shapes, local cheeses and local meat and poultry. The roasted pig made a great impression on everybody as did the barbecued beef..

The barbecue station.

By 2100 hrs. this was all over and we had a look in “The Den” on deck 5 midships where the resident piano player was having a jazz jam session with 3 members of the Show lounge band. As expected it was much too loud for such a small room for people with good hearing, so we vacated to the Living Room (Crowsnest on deck 10) Here the Resident band was playing Beattles music and related, also loud, but this room is really large for the size of this ship and thus we found in the far corner a good spot where we could talk without having to raise our voice.  By now we had not eaten for at least 45 minutes and luckily the ship had set up a small buffet so we would not suffer from withdrawal symptoms. Here we met a Canadian couple who we had talked to on the first day and who were up in arms about the on board drinks package that they had bought. Quite rightly so.

complimentary part 1

Complimentary part 2. These two have been copied out of the Beverage booklet in the bars. As you can see it is quite extensive and much more than “some” included as mentioned in the paper work.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Azamara announces vaguely in their pre cruise paperwork that during the cruise “some beverages are included” but does not elaborate on the what and how many Then they want to sell you, two upgrades. One for $31.95 pp and one for $ 39.95 a person a day. The problem is  the complimentary drinks package includes so much that it does not make sense to take the $31.95 upgrade. (See listing below) there is not much extra. Only if you insist that you are going to drink all the premium alcohol drinks, you might take the $39.95. Several guests, including us had the $ 31.95 package included as part of the booking but we cannot pay an extra $ 8,— a day to upgrade to $ 39.95. No you have to pay the full price for the upgrade package.  So the inclusion of the $ 31.95 package as a perk in the booking, does not mean anything as if hardly gives anything extra over the complimentary package.

The ship has the “Atlas Bar” on deck 10 overlooking the de pool area. This used to be the “Drawing Room” which name is still on the location diagrams in the staircases. The Atlas Bar is a premium cocktail lounge which is only included if you have the $ 39.95 package, or you have to pay the full price for the cocktails and those are not cheap.  So my suggestion is, if you get the $31.95  (called the Premium package) included with your booking, that is fine. If you do not, then it is not worthwhile to pay and extra $ 31.95 to get a few more choices. If you are planning to swill cocktails all day and expensive whiskies and cognacs, then that is up to you for $ 39.95. We found that most guests who did not know the extent of the complimentary package were quite annoyed about this $ 31.95 top up with only marginal extras.

The full 3 package options.

Tomorrow we are in Hvar, also in Croatia,  Weather supposed to be as today. Sunshine, hardly any wind and temperatures around 28oC. or 82oF.  It is an anchor port and thus we need a tender to get ashore.

 

2025 Sep. 19, Opatija; Croatia.

Our overnight route from Venice/Fusina to Opatija in Croatia.

Opatija in Croatia is our first port of call during this very port intensive cruise of one port each day, in the 9 day cruise. I always like some sea days in between but this was the only cruise out there that called at all these small ports in Croatia without having to go on five separate cruises to have one each cruise. Not that I mind 5 extra cruises (and my wife is taking care of that with great alacrity) but those cruises can go then to different parts of the world.

Breakfast on the balcony with a nice view. Life ain’t that bad.

We had Breakfast in the cabin and this is very nice with Azamara. There is a very extensive Room service menu, setup with various “menu breakfast options” and then you can also add extra things to it at the bottom. So get a bagel with the standard salmon and cream cheese and capers, and then add (I am Dutch after all) extra cheese to it.  Etc. Etc,  Options so elaborate which were missing when on board Silver Seas and they claim that they are the best. Very nice also: Room service calls a few minutes before they knock on the door so you can get out of bed or get decent or both. Then 2 stewards come in and set the table. As it was nice weather they set the table on the balcony which was even nicer. So that was a good way to start the day.

Opatija from the ship. The coast of the whole bay is full of hotels and other holiday venues.

Then before going ashore came the hard work. We had downloaded all the relevant information from the Azamara website of what was included in the cruise and our cabin. When arriving on board it turned out that Azamara had stopped quite a bit of the amenities but we booked our Verandah Plus cabin based on what was listed on the Azamara website. So in principle we paid too much as the amenities on board were not that comprehensive. Fresh Flowers gone, slippers “upon request”, fresh fruit “upon request”, daily newspaper gone (It is still on the letter that you get when boarding and still on the website) Wrong name on the welcome letter which listed all these “upon request things”.  The website lists “plural” for the free bottle of booze given but this is only one per cabin. (so if there is one person  in the cabin, or two, or four, still only one bottle).  And then there was yesterday the priority boarding issue. Plus an international newspaper should be delivered to the cabin each day but we have not seen anything yet, as it is also “gone” according to those on board.

Tender dock in Opatija. From here it is a bit of a steep walk up the hill for about 5 minutes to the main street.

The cabin is a Verandah + (plus) but the settee /couch is a 1.5 size and not a full 2, as in some of the regular cabins (there is the space for it, so something happened in the past) and no light above the desk / make up table. The other cabins have 2 spotlights in the ceiling but nothing here. It looks like  that somebody decided that only the larger suites on this deck where entitled to a desk lamp and ours was taken away as the plug & switch are still there.

So we requested a meeting with the Guest Relation Manager, which turned out to be a very lovely lady, but of course she could not do anything but promised to look into the website issue and hopefully she will come back to us.  The Hotel Manager said during his welcome speech that he and his team were there to ” deal with any issues that the guests might have” so we will see.  The Housekeeping supervisor was called out and re-instructed the cabin steward about making sure we had the right welcome letter, that he explained everything and yes that with the free drinks (more about that tomorrow) this also included beer etc. (He claimed yesterday it did not) So suddenly the slippers popped up and the fresh fruit and the free beer.   All this stuff sort of make you start the cruise off on the wrong foot.

Then it was time to go ashore, which worked very well. The cruise Director had advised that the first hour would be tender tickets as the tours had to get off, but with 4 tenders for 624 guests it was “open tenders” after only 50 minutes. The distance to the shore was a “3 tender” distance and for most of the day there were three in operation.

The ms Azamara Onward at anchor off the coast.

Opatija was already a tourist place around 1900 and many large villa’s allude to it. Some have been converted to hotels and some to apartments. One or two might still be privately owned. The whole coastal area is holiday hotel area and we saw Croatian cars but also cars from Germany, Poland, Italy and of course a Dutch one. The Dutch will drive all over Europe so they pop up everywhere. (we once saw 5 at the North Cape at the same time).  Looking at the shops in the main street, a lot of them were upscale, so Opatiija it is not a Beer & Chips resort.

The main street in Opatija. No pedestrian area as it is a sort of main route, but plenty of shops and restaurants at each side.

Thus after a walk along the beach and then into town, through the main street, we were back at the tender dock  1.5 hours later. Once the tender left , it suddenly was called back because the captain was on the dock. It looked like he had gone for run and did not want to wait for the next tender. Calling a tender back with a Far Eastern tender driver is always fraught with challenges, as a break in routine seems to startle them. In this case it was no different and instead of sliding back along the dock, the driver managed to maneuver himself 2 feet off the dock. Thus the next plan was going astern and bring the bow along the dock and then the captain jumped on and dived into the tender via the front window that is used by the tender sailor to secure the forward mooring rope.   And it is a situation like this that makes me angry, very angry…. WHY?   Safety and Leadership.

  1. The captain should set the example for everybody to follow the rules, and thus wait for the tender to be safely docked and once the tender sailor says it is safe, to step on board.
  2. Now he jumped on the bow, where only the tender sailor is allowed to be because he wears a lifejacket. Apart from not having a lifejacket, the captain jumped. Jumping is never allowed.
  3. By doing so, he breached at least 2 regulations of the safety protocols (as listed in the SMS (safety Management System) of the company.

Basically this show that the captain thinks he is above everybody else by calling a tender back full of guests who had already been sitting in a warm tender for 10 minutes, as “Master of the Vessel” he did not set the correct example for the rest of the crew by following the rules and regulations and he endangered himself as he could have slipped on the forward deck and have fallen in the water. (One of the reasons that the tender sailor has to wear a lifejacket when handling the mooring ropes). I made Captain Jonas a compliment yesterday because of showing up for the afternoon presentation but in my eyes this behavior is not acceptable.  So today he really disappointed me.

Back on board we scrutinized the daily program to see how it went with the food. The Windows Cafe (Lido) is open to 14.30. For those who missed lunch, the Patio (that is the outside part of the Windows Cafe over the stern) stays open to 16.30 Same goes for the Hamburger and Ice cream restaurant (Swirl & Top) also to 16.30. Then on most ships there is a sort of gap until dinner. Not here, as from 14.30 to 19.00 there are Tapas and Sandwiches in the Living room (Crows nest ), so there is a food all the time. Then (also free of charge) is the Mosaic Cafe  from 07.00 to 22.00. Then at 22.00 there is a late night snack in the Living Room. So food, in various quantities, rolls on all day long. (And then of   course there is room service)

The show, made up of well known crooner and dance songs.

We went for cocktails in the Living Room and then for dinner in the Main Dining room called “Discoveries” on this ship.  We came in at 18.30 (moderate traffic) but the whole place was nearly empty. By 20.00 it was full but with still some empty spaces. So no waiting lines at any time. When coming in, they ask you if you want to share a table which we did and we had a wonderful conversation with a Canadian Couple from Toronto who were very busy with spending their children’s inheritance as they had booked 17 cruises in the next 3 years. After this one, their next cruise was on the Amazon with the Volendam of Holland America.

By 20.45 the doors to the show lounge opened with a the ships staff lined up for meet and great. Then the Captains introductions,  followed by a full show by the same people as last night. And they were very good again. There are no guest entertainers on board. So the whole cruise we will get a mixture of this cast and cruise staff talents. Something to look forward to.

Tomorrow we are in Zadar, also Croatia, some 100 miles to the south. Weather is expected to be the same, no clouds, sun all day, no wind, temperatures around 27oC / 81oF.   Who needs the Caribbean with this sort of weather………………..

 

 

 

01 Aug. 2025 Going home & the Verdict

My final installment of the cruise comes a bit later then intended because when I got home, real life hit at once. I volunteer as a Director for our Apartment Building and it seemed they all waited until “I came off the ship”. Hence a weeks delay.

This morning the ship docked at Bremerhaven just before 7 am. shortly followed by the ms Amadea also from Phoenix Reisen. There were no disembarkation announcements  as everything was in the Daily Program  and everybody followed those instructions.  Internationally they call this “Silent Disembark” and there was also a “Express Disembark” where you roll your own suitcases of the gangway before regular disembarkation starts. I did not get the impression that this was very popular as it seemed that most guests first wanted to have breakfast. Disembarkation started from the top deck downwards at 08.30  but with only 900 guests everybody was off by 09.00 hrs. or shortly after.  The only challenge we had was waiting for a taxi as we got the impression that the “taxi world” thought that disembarkation was starting at 09.00 and not at 08.30 hrs. By 09.00 long convoys of taxis were approaching the dock to deal with the growing line of waiting cruise people. We made it back to the hotel by 09.30 and after retrieving our car and saying farewell to our Dutch Friends (he drives a bit faster than I do, so we do not drive in convoy)  we set off for the night ferry back to England. If all goes well, we will be home again by 10.00 hrs, tomorrow morning.

The Atrium where you come in and go out. The gangway connection is via the outside Promenade deck. The Mermaid is still from Royal Viking days, the Piano is from Phoenix and to get that piano in, they had to remove the Atrium sculpted glass pole installed by Holland America. I wonder if the company saved that one as it was a beautiful piece of art.

The Verdict.

Starting with the most important question: did we enjoy the cruise ?
Yes we did, we enjoyed it very much. Good atmosphere and traveling with fine friends made it a very positive and pleasant experience,

Would we take another one?
Maybe, if they go to a place we have never been. The “maybe” is mainly because it is such a long journey by car to Bremerhaven.

Was it worth the money?
Yes, this is a 4 star product and the cost was in line with it. 4 Star, which I measure on what is available on the buffets for choice. Which is limited compared to 5 star.

What is available for the guests to enjoy who do not go on tour and stay on board. Not much as all the cruise staff is on tour-bus-duty,

What is available  in the cabin with bedding, shower amenities, linen quality, change of linen ( new bedding only once in the 7 days)

Is it worthwhile to book a suite? Yes according to my wife and I. Also my Dutch friends who upgraded  after their initial booking found the cabin with separate sit and bed area very nice. Then there is a large number of amenities/gifts that come with it. Shoulder bags, logo coffee cups, logo water bottles, logo pins, logo pens, full fridge with free drinks, and nibbles,  A posh box with shower amenities for him and her, The Gold / concierge Room,  Two TV’s in the cabin. (including international programs), special luggage labels, champagne (by the end of the week we had had 3 of them) Attentive cabin service. Voucher for free massage, voucher for champagne breakfast. Early booking option for specialty Restaurant.   We thought it was well worth the money.

What is REALLY different to other (main stream) companies.
A. No announcements in the cabin. Only announcements made are for scenic cruising. Arrival announcement Yes, only one and not in the cabin. All announcements also come over the Bow View Channel so you can just switch it on. Every German reads the daily program and is on time for whatever they are involved in. Compare that with a lot of company’s who are very irritating with announcements in the cabin such as: Fred Olsen, Saga, Celebrity etc. etc. But this was a “peaceful cruise” and if you wanted noise, you went and found it, the peace in the cabin was never disturbed.

B. Official ships tour guides on every bus, in addition to the local tour guides, It is something that company’s used to have in the “good old days”. It must be appreciated by the guests when on tour. This is not the same as we see with other company’s where they put a “crew escort” on board for a free-bie and who then sits the whole tour in a corner on the cell phone or runs off as soon as the bus stops. No these were the professional ships cruise staff, in uniform and helped the guests off the bus and supported the guests in every way needed.

C. Germans on Phoenix do not go for cocktails, they go for after dinner drinks. Thus there is no pre dinner cocktail music in the lounges until about 20.00 hrs. After dinner there is music for the rest of the evening and the lounges are full.

D. Everything starts exactly on the time indicated in the daily program. So if there is a get-to-gether or a party, guests arrive early, so everything can start exactly on time. Dining room from 18.00 – 20.00 hrs., then the serving starts at 20.00 hrs. but guests will have walked in from 19.40 hrs. or so, to find their table and to be ready for the menu.

The Glare.
If you read my cruise reviews on this site, you will see that I always have this entry. “The Glare” is something I do when I walk through the ship. I look each Officer and Crewmember straight in the face with my blue piercing eyes and then wait for the crewmember to acknowledge. The ms Amera crew were extremely good, during the whole voyage, from captain to waiters, sailors to front desk etc. etc. everybody smiled said hello or reacted in another positive way. The only one who failed (3 times) was the Ship’s doctor but  he was walking around as if he was on another planet altogether anyway.

Very friendly Captain and deck officers, very friendly Hotel Manager and very friendly and capable waiters (kellners) & cabin stewards and Front Desk attendants. Nice cruise staff but we did not see them very much as they were each day out on tour and then with a maximum of 10 hrs. a day being allowed to work, there is not much time left.

Mr. Uwe Noster, the man of the Gold & Silber level / concierge was a very gregarious man and very helpful, but although he said that he had “desk hours” we were never able to find out when as the hours were not posted in the daily program and also not on his desk itself on deck 8 Atrium.

The Crowsnest, or Panorama Lounge.  The only lounge completely left as is from the Royal Viking Days.

Other Compliments.
*The “Schone Ausflugge” lunch on the first and last day on the top deck midships. Apart from the free beer, it was just very nice to be present and enjoy it. Regardless of nationality and background. Holland America has the “orange party” but they tend to cut if off after a few songs but here it just went on………… ………………………….Wunderbar.
*Tea in the afternoon. Much better than expected on a German ship and a lot of guests did partake in it.
*Real ships escorts on the coaches. Much appreciated by those on tours.
*Maintenance. For a 37 year old ship the ms Amera looked very good. As was with Holland America keeping the underside of the balconies up to standard was a battle that one could not win, but the old Lady looked very good, both inside and outside. And it seemed that the crew were genuinely proud of her.
*Duo in the Piano Lounge, very good and enjoyable.
*Service in the dining room and lounges, quick, friendly and always with a smile (and automatically a jar of peanuts) .
*Cabin service for our section (10 suite cabins) very good and un-obtrusive..
*Gold Room, very nice for snacks and coffee drinks if you used it. It was under used, so I would not be amazed if Phoenix takes it away. Before Hal it used to be the Staff Captains cabin but if it stays it is a very nice perk.
* Very reasonable bar prices and a very good wine list

There was a promotion for a drink or cocktail every day. A pint of Guinness for Euro 4.20 / 3.64 pounds / 4.89 US is not bad at all

Points for improvement:
*Get better cast shows and have them choreographed by somebody who knows how to do that. This was awful. Full Stop.’

The backing music (click- track) was too thin and needed padding out and the lighting was from a bygone era. The spotlights on the side of the sound booth were not used while with HAL they formed an integral part of the show.

The cast (no doubt talented) were not good enough. It was a pity that the talented trapeze girl had to work in this show set-up  and in a show lounge with such a low ceiling. If somebody from Phoenix reads this, then please look on U-tube and you will be able to see what can be done with such a small stage as Holland America managed it.

*Tender service. It ran extremely well with no delays but antics of some of the drivers…. e.g lack of docking experience…… could be dangerous during windy weather.
*It would help if what is included in the “Gold service” or “Silber service” would be completely listed. There is some under the cabins specifications when you book, there is some that we found out when googling a travel agent site and some we only found out when we got there.
*Same for the suite cabin amenities. Nowhere does it say that you get slippers in the cabin or umbrella’s so we brought them with us,
*Maybe an ice bucket in the cabin for the suites” Our steward found a way around it, but with a double suite, it should be a standard thing.

Can a non German speaker survive?

YES, all the crew speak English and often better than their German. English menus are available in the Dining room, and with Google Translate it is not difficult to translate the German Daily Program.  The only thing you have to get used to, is that the cruise is driven by the Daily Program and that there are no reminders for those who do not read programs, or expect to be reminded by announcements. Phoenix really expects that as you have a brain that you use it.  I loved that part of the operation as I hate interfering announcements.

During my posts, there is always more texta than photos. My Dutch firends have also a blog running for the friends back home when they are travelling. that has more photos than (dutch) text. This is the link:

https://www.polarsteps.com/RuudvanD/18239437-bremerhaven-en-cruise-amera-naar-noorwegen?s=ea486edc-5129-47a0-a9ae-e71c3a170923

A very nice touch was the thank you letter, see below, we received 7 days after the end of the cruise, something I have not seen any other companies do, apart from trying to have you book another cruise. This felt quite personal as the Captain and Cruise Director laid the link between the ship and the guest, instead of just some vague general / letter / email from somebody in the head office.

Willkommen zu Hause
Sehr geehrte Frau Schoonderbeek,
sehr geehrter Herr Schoonderbeek,
Reisenleiter Herz

vor wenigen Tagen haben wir Sie an der Gangway von MS Amera verabschiedet. Hoffentlich hatten Sie eine angenehme Heimreise und sind gut nach Hause zurückgekehrt.

Dem gesamten Schiffsteam rund um Kapitän Dariel Valdes und Kreuzfahrtdirektor Joe Liemberger war es eine große Freude, Sie an Bord zu umsorgen und mit Ihnen gemeinsam schönste Reiseziele erleben zu dürfen.

Wir hoffen, dass Sie sich bei uns rundum wohlgefühlt haben und die Reise Ihren Wünschen und Erwartungen entsprochen hat. Am meisten würde uns freuen, wenn Sie sich noch lange an viele schöne Momente und Erlebnisse Ihrer Reise erinnern.

Auch der schönste Urlaub ist irgendwann zu Ende, und nun wünschen wir Ihnen, dass Sie ganz entspannt in Ihren Alltag zurückkehren.
Vielleicht schmieden Sie ja schon wieder Pläne für die nächste Auszeit.
Dem gesamten Phoenix-Team an Bord wie an Land wäre es eine große Freude, Sie recht bald wieder mit einer neuen Reise begeistern zu dürfen. Seien Sie stets an Bord von MS Amera oder einem der anderen Schiffe von Phoenix Reisen auf das Herzlichste willkommen!

Wir wünschen Ihnen alles Gute und senden Ihnen herzliche Grüße.

Willkommen an Bord! – Willkommen zu Hause!

Ihr

Michael Schulze
Direktor Schiffsreisen
Bonn, den 08.08.25

30 July 2025; Ulvik, Norway.

The Brakkenes Hotel in Ulvik and official Tender port for the ms Amera tenders.

Today we were in Ulvik, a small town located at the end of the Eidfjord which is an extension of the much larger Hardangerfjord. In principle it is one of the “fingers” at the far end of the very wide Hardangerfjord. From sea it takes about 4 hrs. to get there, hence an earlier morning for the captain planning on a 0700 arrival. The first section can be done at 16 knots and then with the fjord getting more and more narrow the ship has to slow down to 10 knots. Then when it ends at Ulvik, the fjord widens in a sort of small lake, large enough for the ms Amera to anchor safely. Being so deeply tucked away into the fjords meant that it was a wind still day with partly cloudy skies and an official temperature of 18oC / 65 oF but with the lack of wind it climbed quite a few degrees.

View of the ship from the tender dock

Ulvik is far removed from anything “big” and the connecting road goes from small village to small village and to get to the first major city is a long drive. Still it is a sought after place for people who travel through the country and thus there are 3 hotels here near the water but one seems to have gone bankcrupt as it looked in a sorry state with most of the inventory still inside. But the town is so remote from the major city centers there seems to be a distinct lack of Hooligans available to cause damage. The biggest and most successful hotel, the Brakkenes, had built a tender dock and thus the tenders run the service from there. Quite a clever idea as quite a few guests, after walking around and seeing that there was nothing to do, went for coffee and cakes and sat on the hotel benches to admire the impressive scenery. And that is the main reason we are here to day, the tour busses/coaches had a good place to stop at the hotels parking space and those not on tour could enjoy the scenery. The Norwegian fjords are scenic everywhere but this area gets one of the highest ratings of the “Fjord experts”. Time simply seems to go much slower here thn anywhere else. I wonder if during the winter, it is almost coming to a standstill………………………
The ship could anchor reasonably close to the tender dock, so we had a 2 tender distance today but they started with 3 tenders to get the tours off as the tender dock was big enough to handle 2. It was interesting to observe the tender drivers as some of them had not really mastered the basics yet and one missed – while it being wind still and current free- the dock by about 6 meters. Hopefully the ship has an extensive training plan in place because I wish them luck in the more windy ports.

This is the main sign to protect the ship from local mayhem. It worked without a glitch.

Ulvik is very small and I counted 4 regular shops, which were all closed as they had decided to go on vacation at the same time. The tourist center opened at noon, four hours after our invasion began in the morning and the only place open and busy was the local CO-OP super market. Ulvik’s claim to fame is to have been the birth place of the Norwegian Poet Olav Hakonson. Hauge. (1908 – 1994) He lived there all his life, was involved in Horticulture and published his first poems in 1946. He is considered one of Norway’s most beloved poets and they turned one of the largest houses in Ulvik into a museum. When walking around we found several “traffic sign” size signs with a short poem of his on it, which you could read while looking at the scenery. Quite a nice way to get people focused on poetry. Main traffic on the road were indeed tourists in RV’s or regular cars and we observed a “column” of Dutch cars coming by who had left the hotel on their way to the next beauty spot. Indeed the most foreign license plates you see are from Dutch people, who due to their language skills have no problem, and no fear, to travel anywhere. Years ago, when I was captain of the Prinsendam, I docked in Kirkeness near the North Cape with the bow overhanging the local parking area and right in front of me, taking up half the parking area, were a large number of Dutch Cars. They then biked the rest of the up to the North Cape. Yesterday we saw a 1960’s Volkwagen “flower power style” camper coming by, indeed manned by hippy- type owners and their brood and they had also made it deep into Norway while driving a 70 year old mini van.

Ulviks famous son, the poet Olav Haugh or Hauge. His poems have been translated into English and can be found on the internet.

So we spent 1.5 hrs. ashore for a nice walk, avoided the ice cream stand (55 NOK for a small cornet) and got back on the tender before the tours were coming back. One thing that makes me smile are the security arrangements in each port. Each dock is supposed to conform with the ISPS regulations (International Ship and Port Facility Security), which includes regulations for fences, screening and supervision. In Sandane they had a sign, and nothing else, that said this is an ISPS port and today, there was nothing except the nice ship security lady with a clicker. It must be wonderful to still be able to live in an area where nothing is needed to be safe. But as mentioned above, Ulvik is too far away for any self respecting hooligan to make mayhem, so all is still well in the world here. Norway has very strict fire arm laws, strict enough that it is not needed for the local police to be armed. To get a license there is an arduous process and then one normally only gets a license if there is hunting involved. Then the police will visit your house regularly to see if the fire arm is safely locked away in a safe inside the house.

The main shopping street of Ulvik and all shops closed. All shop owners seem to have decided to go on holiday at the same time. Not a bad idea maybe, as nobody will be confused of which shop is open or not during the summer vacation season.

Back on board we scrutinized the daily program which came today with a flyer for duty- free orders. I assume the prices are good when compared to the German supermarket but we can do better on the ferry back to england so we let it slip by. As expected nothing was happening on board until the evening as the whole “event staff” is escorting tours each day. Highlight of the early evening was a Jewelry presentation in the shops. We went for the ice cream, still the same stand as in the Prinsendam days, except they have removed the Soft ice Machine. I was in line with a little boy who had brought a ships waiter with him to ensure he did get his ice cream with top ups, as yesterday a guest had emptied the whole bin with whipped cream (Slag-sahne) and he was not going to let that happen for a 2nd time. I fully agreed with him, having the right condiments for your ice cream (and you add those yourself) is a most essential part of one’s daily cruise experience. And it is not to be endangered by one greedy guest. So we spent the afternoon people watching as I still try to get my head around how the “German” flow on board works. We have now learned that they all show up about 30 minutes early before an event, so they are in place on time, that no announcements are needed to get people on time to the right location for tours as they all read the paper work, and that everybody is back on board in time (even ahead of time) so that “Herr Kapitan” does not have to wait. Hence we have departed from all ports, exactly on time.

The ms Amera hall. of fame. As other ships, first -port-call – plaques are being put on the wall. Here my Lord and Master is checking if there is any port she has not been to, as the ms Amera also makes world cruises so the collection is going up quickly. This is outside the Crowsnest / Panorama Lounge where HAL left the collection from Royal Viking Sun in place. from the days that the ports still gave very nice presents.

The one thing still to find out is why the shows are not very well attended. We can understand the lack of “full house: interest as Cast shows are not very good but the show of last night, which was very good, was also only about 3/4 full. We sneaked this evening after dinner into the lounge for another Cast Show (now based on the songs of the Rat Pack). The show was slightly better than before but an Englishman trying to imitate in German, the antics of Dean Martin simply does not work. Again the lounge was not more than half full. The rest of the crowd was in Piano Lounge and Harry’s Bar enjoying the music with drinks on the table (and peanuts so even more drinks were ordered). We have not yet inspected the late evening snack so hopefully we will get around to that tomorrow. Here the “midnight buffet” is at 10 pm. which works perfectly after having had a few drinks after dinner in the lounges.

Ulvik Fjord, which country can beat such a view.We left Ulvik “punktlich” on time at 1800 hrs. and then enjoyed a 4 hrs. sail out through Hardangerfjord. Phoenix Reisen has a company tune, that they play all over the ship during the departure, and it gives a sort of Welcome Back feeling. We had our 2nd dinner in Pilchers Restaurant (Pinnacle Lounge) courtesy of having a Gold star cabin and being able to book ahead of everybody else and it was very good again. This time we were the last ones out and the Maitre had time to talk to us and was full of questions about sailing everywhere in the world. So I had time to give one of my 5 minute lectures again with the pro and cons of the Panama Canal versus the Suez Canal. Knowing the Philipinos and the way they enjoy gossiping, it would have gone around the crew messroom in no time.

Tomorrow we are at sea and on the way home to Bremerhaven. The weather is supposed to be good. Today while tucked away at Ulvik it was blowing wind force 7 in the open sea but it started to die down in the late afternoon so by the time we are in the open, it should be smooth seas again. Then tomorrow smooth seas and sun for a glorious last day with packing. We have received our landing tags for the suitcases, so what can still go still wrong in the world?

 

 

 

2025 June 08, Glasgow / Greenock, Scotland.

Some people think that Glasgow is a sea port but it is not. It is a river port. It is located inland on the river Clyde. This is an estuary river (think the shape of  a wedge, wide at open sea side  and narrow at Glasgow side) and thus it has a large tidal range. The one foot height difference at the sea end of the river becomes up to 12 feet once the water is pushed all the way up  the ever smaller river. So for shipping that can reach Glasgow, there is a King George dock that shields ships visiting from having the go up and down too much.  Hence container ships and larger cruise ships have to dock at Greenock. Around the Greenock were once the old shipyards and steel works that churned out the cargo, passenger ships and navy ships that served the British Empire. Famous ships such as the Queen Mary (I), Queen Elizabeth (I&II), Lusitania,  etc. etc. came from here. That is all gone and the shipyards have been replaced with housing and parks. The grass and other vegetation is now covering centuries of industry (and also  the pollution that came with it).  Glasgow now makes its money from the Service Industry and related.

Overview of the area (thank you google) The red line is the route in and out of the River Clyde and the green line is the river Clyde up to Glasgow. During WWII Greenock was the place were the convoys came in from America, as it was a sheltered area that could handle big fleets. Falkirk is slightly to the South East of Stirling Castle.

We had decided for today to take the  day tour to the town of Stirling for free time and the Falkirk wheel which is a sort of lift that raises narrow boats between one canal and another canal that are 135 feet apart in elevation. It is the only one in the world and thus attracted my interest. It started with an hour long  scenic coach drive down to the town of Stirling. Although better said, a drive up, as Stirling is located an hours drive North of Glasgow. Although most of it was on the motor way, via the Glasgow ring road, it was still very scenic with extensive meadows on either side of the road and lots of old & new houses and cottages zooming by.

Scenic view of Stirling with the Castle (courtesy Visit Scotland)

The town of Stirling itself was “on your own” with 3 hours free time to walk around, go to the castle, visit a museum or just enjoy a Sunday morning in Scotland (which for shopping starts around noon time). It only drizzled a little bit.  I have now figured out with the weather that in my home town (East side of England) that when it gives 20% chance of rain that you have indeed 80% chance that is is dry. But here on the west coast of Scotland and the island of Ireland, when the prediction is 20% of rain, then you will get that 20%. So a small wind-defying umbrella is now standard equipment for going out.

The public toilets waiting  in the local shopping center

What was so special about Stirling? It was only granted city rights in 2002 but was the nations capital in the 12th. century. Hence the presence of Stirling Castle, which housed among others Mary Queen of Scots. The company has a separate tours going there but some of our bus passengers also hiked up the hill to have a look. I have seen too many Castles in my life already (although I love them) so I was not that bothered. Plus we have Norwich Castle on our doorstep and that is hard to beat anyway. No, what made the biggest impression ? The public toilets. I have never seen them so clean and with a waiting area with nice chairs. No impatient blokes hanging around waiting for their better half to come out, no, some nice seats to contemplate life while her ladyship is going about her business.

Overview of the Falkirk wheel. To the lower left the entrance to the Fife & Clyde Canal. Left the visitor center and then the boat lift with the exit going towards the tunnel and from there to the connection with the Union Canal.

And so after walking through the very nice streets, visiting all the Charity Shops (I am always on the hunt for un-expected nautical book finds) and eating scones, we went back on the bus and drove for 30 minutes to Falkirk. This was the main reason for me to be interested in doing the tour. Falkirk has been serviced since the 19th. century by two canals, The Union Canal on the higher level coming from England and the Forth & Clyde canal 135 feet down on the lower level.  To connect the two there was an extensive lock system that took about 6 hours for a barge to get through. When the railways took over, the canals fell in disrepair but after the 1970’s there was a resurgence in interests and in the next 30 years (and it is still going on) many of the canals were repaired and brought life to the areas by means of canal trips in narrow boats. It has brought a new lease of life to some deprived areas.

The Falkirk Wheel taken from the sightseeing boat while going in and the other basin with water at the top.

Fast forward to the late 1990s a gentleman called Tony Kettle (it was a team effort of a lot of disciplines, but he had the “lightbulb moment”) came up with the idea to design a new contraption to make this 135 feet drop easier and faster for narrow boats to navigate. The basic idea was to use the weight of water in two boxes and on the Archimedes principle that the weight in each box would always remains the same, regardless of what was put in it. So if the box is just full of water and nothing else in, the weight remains the same if a boat comes in, as the boat displaces the same weight of water as the volume of the boat. That means that only a little push is enough for the top box to go down and the down box to come up.

So we all got a ticket for the 14.20 departure and with a full house, approx. 200 people in the barge, the wheel slowly tipped at the top and started coming down with the top box and we in the lower box went up. The lady skipper gave a sort narration and once at the top we sailed through an 180 meter long tunnel to a turning basin and then came back for the downwards part. At the moment the turning basin is the end of the top bit as it should connect to the Union Canal but that has been drained, so the locks and canal walls can be restored. By end 2026 everything should be fully connected again.

Once down we could see the turning basin that is used for the sightseeing barges to line for loading and unloading, but there are also the locks to connect the turning basin to the Forth & Clyde Canal.  The whole drive behind the idea was to create also a lasting monument to Queen Elizabeth’s II sixty years on the throne in 2002. They managed to get it ready and indeed Her Majesty came to take care of the opening.  A complete little tourist attraction has since sprung up around the Wheel with a very nice Visitors center (with very expensive souvenirs) and some other activities for children and adults alike. Quite peculiar was the number of German visitors, I have not seen such a large concentration in other locations. But I agree with them it is worth the visit.

One of the two sightseeing boats or barges. Capacity about 200 people and full all day.

Then it was back with the coach, with the initial promise made that we would drive past the Kelpies. The horses out of Scottish Mythology, immortalized in 2014 in stainless steel horse heads. When they were constructed there was a lot of “doom saying” about throwing away money urgently needed somewhere else. But was with the Falkirk Wheel, it turned out to be a real boost for the local economy.  However the bus company had forgotten that today was the final day of “Lloyds cycling Tour of Britain Women” which included 5 rounds in the city and for that purpose part of the ring road was closed off. That realization obviously dawned at the last minute and the bus driver had to take the “high road” instead if the “low road”, while we were already in “Kelpie mood”.

The world famous Kelpies, not this time, maybe next time.

By 1700 we were back at the ship, just in time for cocktails and dinner. We decided to go back to the Canaletto. Again the food was nice, the service friendly  but spotty. Tomorrow we are in D’un Laoghaire, which is pronounce Dun-Leery. This is the anchor port for Dublin if there is no dock available in Dublin itself. They have a dedicated cruise dock there but it is too small for the Nieuw Statendam and the cargo port gives preference to ferries and cargo ships. Weather for tomorrow: 16oC/61oF (at the most) and a 20% chance of rain.

 

 

 

 

2025 June 07; Belfast, Northern Ireland, Great Britain,

The ms Nieuw Statendam in Belfast . Great dock and nice terminal but far out of town, so you need transport

During the night we sailed south wards along the west coast of Scotland and then entered the Loch of Belfast at 08.00 hrs. and picked up the pilot at 09.00 hrs. From there is was another hour to get to the dock as the port of Belfast is located deep into the Lough. By swinging around on arrival (always a wise move incase there is a lot of wind later on ). The good ship Nieuw Statendam was docked just before 11.00 hrs. being the official arrival time. By 11.10 hrs. shoreside had  installed two gangways and those who wished could go ashore. A long line of shuttle buses were waiting ($ 18,— for the day) and also two Hop-on-hop-off busses arrived as HAL is now selling tickets for those as well. They pick those with prepaid tickets up from the ship but do not return them so you have to come back with the shuttle bus (included). We had booked an afternoon tour going to the outside of Belfast.

A very popular tour is  the Titanic museum and we have been there twice, the last time last year, so not much reason to go again. Still for those who might visit Belfast in the future, it is really worth to do this tour as recently  they added this cable car circuit which takes you through the process of constructing the Titanic. And its done in a very good way. (For more information see the write up under the Silver Spirit review elsewhere on this website) We also have done the city tour and thus we decided upon a Panoramic ride into the country side.

The tour departure times on the big LED screen in the World Stage. The shore excursion lady was more busy with traffic control (keeping those out of the Emergency Exists, who wanted to run or rollate to the gangway first) than having to focus on group control.

As we had bought the “Have it All” package, it included two tours and today we took the first one.  A scenic drive to a Peninsula with a visit at a pub (for a free Irish Coffee) and a destroyed monastery (free rain included). Meeting at 11.30 am which is a decent time for a boy who after 40 years of getting up early likes to take it easy.  So we all trundled, at the announced time, to the “World Stage” for assembly and stickering. It gave me a chance to see how much tour dispatch had improved since Covid. Gone were the paper tickets. It is now a bar code on your phone (Holland America App) and the tours are on the big screen with departure times like in an Air Port.

The map of our tour. The light blue is land, the dark blue is water. Belfast, scenic via Bangor to Donaghadee and then on the the Greybears.

So this scenic tour took us from Belfast first to Donaghadee for an Irish Coffee in an authentic Irish Pub. (Not very authentic but then a real one  would not have been able to take a 50 strong busload. It gave me the chance to taste a local beer as I do not drink coffee. (Not even with alcohol).  Then to the Grey Abbey in the town of Grey Abbey. Called the  grey from the tunics of the monks.

Here volunteers took all of us around the ruins of the monastery and explained the high and low deeds of those involved in the Abbey and when the Abbey became a Christian church under the ownership of the Montgomery family. One of them was involved in the American Independence (on the American side)  and the town of Montgomery in Alabama was named after him.  The family still owns the church/ ruin and although they are now buried somewhere else, they still install plaques of remembrance in the grounds.

Grey Abbey from the parking area. It was much bigger than you see here.  (https://greyabbey.com/)

Once back on board we had to get a move on as we had reservations for the Pinnacle Restaurant. This was the first “Specialty” restaurant installed on  board the HAL ships in 2008. It was to focus on North West Pacific Fusion Cuisine, featuring Alaska products, such as Salmon related dishes. Adding the world “Fusion” made it possible to add beef dishes and Thai chicken soup. I did/do not understand this bit about fusion at all but the food was great, especially that chicken soup in those days.

So it was interesting to go back and see what they had done with the menu in the recent years. The word fusion had been dropped a long time ago but  the designers were still at it and had now added Norwegian dishes to the menu. Service was friendly as expected but not faultless. Most of the waiters had sailed with me in the grey mists of time and thus when the rest of the guests were gone, it was a trip down memory lane.

Tomorrow we are in Glasgow any my Lord & Master has booked a trip to the town of Stirling and the Falkirk Wheel, so we have to be in the show lounge by 08.30. Weather is as usual 4 seasons in one day so the umbrella has to go with us, Expected temperature around 14oC / 58oF which is acceptable for Glasgow.

Our visit to the pub in Donaghadee, also known as Port Devine in the movie world. Some people do live the good life.

 

03 March 2020; Puerto Caldera, Costa Rica.

Today we are in a hot and sweltering Costa Rica, mainly because there is hardly any wind, or clouds. As mentioned yesterday, this stop is mainly to offer the guests Eco Tours; same as we have other ports for history (Puerto Quetzal) and other ports again for beach and shopping.  When going here, we have the option to dock at Punta Arenas or at Puerto Caldera. The latter one is officially the cargo port. In the old days it was the only port, but then they built a new pier which leads straight into the town of Punta Arenas. The challenge with the new pier is, it is very exposed to current, wind and swell. So to get the ship alongside you have to arrive at slack tide (change from ebbing to flooding or vice versa) and when the swell is running, then the ship bounces up and down the pier all day, which is not so great for our guests. Continue reading

24 February 2020; At sea, day 1.

When I mentioned yesterday that we were going to take the Old Bahama Channel route to evade heavy swells, I forgot to say that we first had to get there. So after departure St. Thomas we had a lively night as we were still in the North Atlantic Ocean. Then by 11 am. we came under the lee of the Turks and Caicos Islands and that took most of the swell away. Now we are sailing North of Hispaniola and the ship is it’s steady self with only a slight movement caused by the regular swell that runs here anyway. This swell is caused by the Trade Winds that have been blowing again on a regular basis and that eventually creates some higher waves. But being south of the Bahamas for the remainder of the cruise means that what is generated at Cape Hatteras cannot reach us. Continue reading

16 Feb. 2020; Ocho Rios, Jamaica.

The rain forest did its job much better than I had hoped for and on arrival it looked more like the autumn weather in Alaska than Caribbean sunshine. It was windy and rainy but not cold of course. Luckily once the sun got hold of the clouds, they burnt off and the sun came through. Unfortunately my prediction was better than the official forecast so we had a shower during the day. Not nice as you get wet, but not as bad as it could be, as the rain is warm.  Although one gentleman was upset with the rain, as he was ashore in a group and they all decided to take shelter in a shop. It turned out to be a jewelry shop……… do I need to say more? As the rain shower took a while, the shop attendant was able to work her charm and the local economy was stimulated with a considerable investment. Continue reading

8 Feb. 2020, San Juan Puerto Rico

With all engines fired up we raced for San Juan pilot station, put him on board, made a sharp turn to starboard and sailed into the port.  San Juan is one of those ports that are interesting to sail into, as the old town is right on top of the harbor entrance and then the ship curves around that area as the cruise piers are right behind it. That then gives the advantage that one can walk straight off the ship into the old town and do so just by crossing the street.  We were on pier 3 today which is about as close as a cruise passenger can get. There is also a pier 1 that is sometimes used for cruise ships (on a busy) day but that pier was today occupied by a private yacht The Eclipse (and if I have my records correct, that yacht is owned by Paul Allen of Microsoft fame and is arguably the biggest yacht in the world) Opposite was the USCG cutter Bear which is too large to dock at the USCG station at the corner of the port.  Then came pier 3, with the Sirena of Oceana Cruises on the West side, us on the East side, and at pier 4 west we had the Star Breeze from Windstar Cruises. This ship used to be one of the smaller Seabourn ships and was sold off to Windstar when Seabourn started a new build program. The funny thing is, that Windstar was once a subsidiary of Holland America and Seabourn still is. So it remains a sort of in the family happening with the way the tonnage is moved around. At a new terminal to the East were the Vision of the Seas and the Celebrity Summit. Those docks are far, far away from downtown and are normally used for change over days. Continue reading

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