We approached nice and timely the port of Manaus. At 08.30 we came past the “parting of the waters” as they call it, where the waters of the Amazon River meets the waters of the Rio Negra. Normally the two waters, muddy brown and ink black, remain separate for a long time due to the difference in the compounds in the water. This time the borderline was much more blurred as the current from the Amazon was so much stronger that it pushed right through the outflow of the Rio Negra. We followed the Royal Princess who, as scheduled by the port, would dock ahead of us at the Torres floating dock. To the amazement of all of us on the bridge she suddenly stopped still in the water about a 1000 feet from the dock. Before we could inquire the pilot received a phone call with the order for us to do the same. So I stopped the Prinsendam a 1000 feet away from the Royal Princess and drifted. It turned out that at 10 pm last night the Harbour master had issued a port order that no ships were allowed to dock at the city docks. All involved only found out about that this morning when the pilots and the agent offices opened and the order was found sitting in the fax machine. Continue reading

I had decided to arrive early at the anchorage, two hours before the official arrival time as past experience had shown that Boca is always a challenge for the tender operation. Especially when having to make the tender pier acceptable to our standards. When the Amazon is low, the locals have a floating pontoon with a catwalk that they move along with the receding river. When the river gets higher that pontoon disappears and the ships are left to fend for themselves. Thus I arrived at 6 am sunrise time, and lowered a tender with the chief officer in charge. His mission was to see if we could reach the village by sailing over the now inundated shore line and find a place where our tenders could somehow safely dock. This tender was loaded with wood, carpet, upholsterers and Carpenters. With a sailor on the bow to do soundings, a look out, a tender driver and the chief officer in command, expedition “Baby-Prinsendam” proceeded slowly towards the church square of Boca de Valeria. Continue reading

The current did not get any better (that is less) during the night. Instead it only became stronger. The minimum observed was 2.8 knots and the maximum, for a short time, 5.1 knots. That meant that by doing 20 knots through the water, the ship made on average only 16.5 knots of speed over the ground. And I did have the ship going full out. The Amazon is a very wide river and thus it can be safely done to run sea speeds. However it is not as wide as the open sea and therefore the chief officer and I are on the bridge in turns to monitor the activities of the pilots and the officers. The chief being on the bridge during 1800 – midnight period and me from midnight to 0600. Not directly involved in the navigation but keeping an overview to ascertain that if a mistake would occur it would not create an error chain with dangerous results. So until 6 am I was watching the speed log with great interest but the current never ever did relent to something acceptable, acceptable in order to arrive on time. By 6 am. it was quite clear that we were going to be late, quite late. The Amazon was showing it strength and there was nothing that I could do about it. Continue reading

With the pedal to the metal we raced from the mouth of the Rio Para to the mouth of the Amazon, trying to make the up the lost time from Belem. I had squeezed the courses as close to the coast as possible, running the course line over the 20 meter depth line (60 feet) and tried that way to find a balance between the shortest run and the least shaking because of the squat. We did not shake, thus at least that worked. By 06.00 we were at the depth line where the water became less than 10 meters or 30 feet; at least according to the chart. Normally you then have a few feet more as the depth-numbers in the chart refer to minimum depths that seldom occur. The problem was that the tide was running against us and we would have to battle it instead of getting an extra free push in the back. When sailing in depths of less than 10 meters you will really notice squat when at full speed, so I came down to 15 knots to see how that worked. If the vibrating would start I only had to reduce more. No shaking occurred however and I could continue with that speed for the next three hours over the bar area. Continue reading

I had gone to bed early as I knew it would be a long standby from the Belem pilot to the anchorage 6 hours up the river. I had confirmed my pilot time in the afternoon and so I thought that all was well in the world. Barely two hours in bed and I got a call from the pilot station confirming that they would be there on time. Nice to know but it had already been confirmed by the agent earlier in the day. Luckily the lady calling had a nice husky voice, so it was at least pleasant to listen to. She then proceeded to give me the coordinates of where the pilot would board. I think that she had been selected for her knowledge of English, as her nautical knowledge was way below par, she could not even properly read out the position in degrees, minutes and seconds. So it took awhile before I had the numbers on paper. I had the navigator plot the coordinates in the chart only to find out that the position given was somewhere inland, where I absolutely could not go thus I decided to continue to the original position indicated in the chart; I was now wide wake and I decided to stay on the bridge but lost two hours of valuable sleep. It was a clear night and thus I could help out looking for the pilot boat incase they had indeed decided to park themselves somewhere else, wherever that might have been. However the boat was in the normal position as expected and at just after 3 am. we had the pilot onboard. Continue reading

We were blessed with yet another beautiful day at sea. It was a bit breezy with moderate to fresh winds blowing from the North East but as that was more or less a following wind, it did not feel very windy on the decks. For most of the day we sailed in deep water away from the continental shelf but in the course of the evening we came closer to land and the depth of the water rapidly decreased until about a 100 feet under the keel. I had set my courses in the chart in such away that we sailed along the coast with this depth under the keel, as it kept us just outside the fishing grounds. The local fishermen set out long nets that are indicated with a buoy at one end and their boat at the other end. During the night they have strobe lights (very fast flashing light) on that buoy but as they forever seem to run out of batteries the buoys are hardly visible during the night time. They then have the tendency to either race in the direction of the buoy and that looks as if they are on a collision course, or start shining with a searchlight into the dark wheelhouse and blinding all of us. Neither of the two options is very pleasant and by staying a few miles further out, you can avoid it all. Continue reading

The pilot had been ordered for 0600 in the morning and we had to confirm our ETA (Estimated Time of Arrival) two hours before; so great was the surprise of the Officer of the dog shift to be called 4 hours before that time by the pilot of Fortaleza himself. We have never had such eager pilot station before on a cruise and certainly not in South America. However that is better than the other way around so the OOW happily confirmed our arrival time. We were there at 6 am. and so was the pilot. Then it was slow going as the entrance to the port is really shallow and with only 6 feet under the keel we crept into port. Going slow to avoid the squat and as a result the ship touching bottom. There we had a little surprise. I had expected the wind to be full on the beam while docking but the assigned space was between two ships and I was supposed to dock about 10 meters away from the ship behind me. Secondly there was a gap between two warehouses on the dock where the stern was going to be and that gap acted as a funnel and increased wind force 4 to about wind force 8. That would make it difficult for any ship to come in especially as with the little amount of water under the keel, the propellers would have a hard time pushing the water to where I wanted it to go. For that reason the port has a tug on standby in the port at all times and so I used it as I had to pay for it anyway. It nicely pushed the stern in against this funnel wind coming from between the warehouses. Continue reading

By 10 am we had changed course to the northwest and thus came an end to our mainly northerly courses (when in open waters) that we had been steering since we left Antarctica. We made this course change about 30 miles off the coast, as I had decided to stay away from the shallows, so we would not get entangled in fishing fleets and their nets. The sailing directions and notes in charts are warning about huge concentrations of fishing boats and they do not give that warning for nothing. All the information accumulated in the nautical sailing directions come from the seafarers themselves and thus a lot of them must have gotten themselves into a muddle with fishing boats while sailing close to the coast. So the Prinsendam remained in open waters and made a nice wide turn around the indicated areas. The chief engineer wanted a bit of steady and medium speed anyway as he had to make water because the loading capacity tomorrow in Fortaleza will be very meager. Thus a longer route worked well for him. The potable water pipe lines at the dock are at the end of the city’s pipe line system and the pressure is not very high as a result of it. If we are going to get 10 tons an hour it will be great. In other ports 50 tons an hour is normal) Continue reading

Recife has always been a cargo port which until recently was seldom visited by cruise ships. When I came here in the past the docks were always dirty from cargo handling and the authorities could not care less about cruise guests. My surprise was therefore great that when we arrived, I saw a very nice and clean dock to park at; everything ran as clockwork and the ship was cleared as soon as the gangway was out. The pilot mentioned that they have 50 cruise ship calls this year and they will build a cruise terminal during the coming summer (their winter) ready for next years season. Today was an extra busy day with two cruise ships in port. The port is still a bit limited if you are not going on tour as the city is very large and very spread out. Not unlike an American city with a business district and high rises and then suburbia around it. If you do not have a car and do not have local knowledge it is not so easy to find your way around and to see something of interest. Continue reading

Slowly we start to understand how large Brazil is. On the 26th of February we passed the border between Uruguay and Brazil and ever since that time we have been sailing along its coast. Between Rio and Salvador we sailed at full speed and now we are sailing along with the sedate speed of 14 knots; set to arrive at Recife at sunrise. After that we still have several days of steaming to go, interspersed with ports and the Amazon of course, before we will finally come to another country. However those countries, Guyana, Suriname etc. are still laying along the coast and form a rim around Brazil. It is indeed a very very big country. Thus today we sailed along another part of the coast of Brazil. That coast was about 60 miles to the West of us as we are following a straight course line and the Brazilian coast is curved inwards here. Only in the late evening tonight we will be coming closer again, making a landfall around 4 am in the morning. Continue reading