The weather was not behaving according to the forecast. Only the general direction was correct. For the rest there was too much wind, too much swell and too much rain. When the ship came out of the lee from under Haiti, while exiting the Windward Passage, it became a bumpy ride for about 2 hours. When we turned North West into the Old Bahama Channel, it became a following sea & wind; then peace and quiet descended on the ship once more. However it remained with us for the whole day and the remainder of the night while we travelled North of Cuba and into the Straits of Florida. Luckily this was the last day of the cruise and then all the guests focus is on the activities inside. Disembarkation talk, crew farewell, last minute shopping. Plus the unsolvable problem of getting the contents of three suitcases into two and all those things together keeps a cruise passenger happily occupied during the last day. Not everybody of course, we have another 115 who will travel with us back to San Diego having booked a back to back. If you have the time that is a great idea, as the cost of flying can come quite close to the cost of booking the additional 14 days. Continue reading

 Today we crossed the Caribbean Sea on an almost northerly course (007) that will bring us eventually to the Windward Passage and from there into the North Atlantic above Cuba. A sea day to enjoy for all on board. I started the day with a more unusual item, ANZAC day. 25 April is the date that Australia and New Zealand are remembering their fallen and they use the 25th. as it is this the day of the ill fated campaign at Gallipoli. As we are getting more and more guests on board from down under, it makes it possible for us to organize a small remembrance service. This cruise we had 55 antipodeans on board and that was more than enough to arrange something. So at 0900 we had a service in the Crows nest. In Australia and New Zealand they have a ritual called the “Dawn service”. That is sort of moment of remembrance that sprung up spontaneously in the past and only loosely followed a certain routine. A routine varying from group of Ladies in a back garden, or a school class on the beach to a full memorial service with all the pomp and circumstance of Regiment flags, gun salutes and bugle calls. That made it easy for us to put a short service together and remember those who gave their lives so we could live in freedom. It was a good start of my morning. Continue reading

During the night the lousy weather abated somewhat and with only at stiff breeze left we arrived at 08.30 at the Boca Chica pilot station which is located at the entrance of the bay leading to Cartagena. Port Control was not very much in control at all, as although we had been cleared for a direct sail in, we were advised 10 minutes before passing the sea buoy that there was a ship coming out. The fairway is already almost too small for one ship going in or out, let alone for passing each other between the buoys. So we were told to slow down and wait and pass Red to Red (port to port). The out coming ship went south and thus ended up on our starboard side, Green to Green. So I refused to move until the situation was cleared up about what this ship was going to do, as port control had ordered Red to Red. The ship did not answer on the VHF when we tried to raise them and thus waiting was the best answer. See what she does. This was not up to the liking of Port Control who now suddenly started screaming that we had to proceed which I refused to do until it was completely clear what the other ship was up to. The pilot who had arrived on board took up the cause and with a lot of Spanish screaming going on, we eventually sailed into Cartagena Bay. I thought it wise to do it all myself this time, so the pilot could keep a close eye on the communication with a less than helpful Port Control. That turned out for the best, as while I was conning, the Officer of the Watch detected two other large ships moving in the bay. They could be in our way when we came closer to the dock. So the pilot went back on the phone again and eventually everything was sorted out. But all the excitement cost me another 15 minutes and in the end we were docked just on time, instead of my 15 minutes (or more)early which I prefer so the authorities can clear the ship before the official arrival time is due.

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Late yesterday the schedule arrived and I was not a happy person. Due to congestion in the Canal, the convoy was made up of all big – panamax -boys; we were selected to be number 23. Nearly the end of the day convoy and putting our pilot boarding time back to 06:00. Resulting in a planned sail by time of Cristobal at 17:00 hrs. During our last few Northbound transits we had a fast crossing which helps with making a timely schedule to Cartagena. I asked to be bumped up a few numbers but it was not possible. Then during the night we were advised that the pilot was coming another 30 minutes later and that was going to put the transit time even later. Good for my sleep but it meant that we would be doing the whole Canal in the burning sun. At least certainly until the Continental Divide. By being a bit early you pass under the Bridge of the America’s during dawn, which is a very picturesque sight and by sunrise you are in the first locks. By the time it is getting warm you are through the Pedro Miguel locks and then you can sit in the shade or behind the windows in the cool air while we go through the lake. Not today. In the end the pilot showed up another 20 minutes later and that did not help very much either. Continue reading

 This is our 2nd day at sea, which will last until 1800 when we will be at anchor at Fuerte Amador for the evening. The weather chart is showing no rain, so I hope mother nature will act accordingly as it would spoil a nice evening ashore if you come back drenched. Because if it rains here, being in the proximity of the rain forests, it pours. Sometimes the down poor is so heavy that it impairs the visibility. I went once through with the Rotterdam V, when we ended up in such a heavy shower that the pilot had to abort the approach to the Gatun locks (the locks on the Atlantic side) because he could not see anything anymore. Also our radars were of little help and we let the ship drift slowly towards the anchorage area while waiting for the rain to lift. Normally you talk about the very low clouds “to lift” but in this case we needed the rain to “lift” as the result in reduced visibility was exactly the same. It also made so much noise that we had to raise our voices to be heard over the din. Luckily we had a few captains in the old days who were always raising their voice so that it did not make that much difference. Things have improved considerably since then. Although………. I tend to sing on the bridge, so I do not know what the OOW would find worse. Continue reading

We are on our way to Balboa for our evening call at Fuerte Amador. With 878 miles to cover, it will take two full days to do so. Hence our early afternoon departure from Puerto Quetzal and the 1800 arrival at the anchorage for our evening call. Luckily the weather is very good, nearly wind still weather all the way, and with the swell diminishing significantly so we should make good progress, on average. With the last I mean that there will be stretches with the current going with us and there will be stretches with the current against us. On average it should almost level out, except for the last morning and early afternoon when we get the current fully against us; courtesy of the fact that it enters the Gulf of Panama from the South East and then curves out again at the South west. With the nearly wind – still weather of the last few days, it will be interesting to see if the currents are stronger or weaker, now there is no “present” wind to influence them. Continue reading

It’s early, not only for me, but also for the poor people that were going on the flight tour. But however who said tourism was painless?  We approached the port entrance at 0400 hrs and saw the swell running towards the beach but as I was expecting the outer breakwater protected the entrance in the way it should and there were no issues.  Port Control was awake, the pilot was on time, the tugboats were in position (more to prevent their piers from being hit by the ship, than to help out) and all was well in the world.  With a great “lightning show” in the distance we sailed in with wind still weather into the port.  Swung around in the basin and went astern to the cruise terminal, which here is a floating pontoon. A great idea as we never have to fuss with the gangway because of the changing tide. By 0500 the gangway was out, 15 minutes later the guests started to stream ashore and by 0610 the airplane was in the air.  All went like clockwork and I went back to bed. Caught myself another two hours of sleep as I needed to be at my best for departure, where we have to make an S turn to get out of the breakwater and we drift enormously on the wind, which is then full on the beam. So no margin for error. Continue reading

 The Tehantepec wind behaved exactly according to our planning based on the weather forecast. It started blowing at 21:00 hrs and by midnight it was all over. Peak wind was 55 knots, which was a little bit more than we anticipated (45 – 50 knots) but as we were well prepared it did not matter that much. With wind still weather we arrived at the Puerto Chiapas pilot station listening to a very chirpy pilot on the VHF, promising us a wonderful day. Well it looked indeed very nice until I focused my binoculars on the entrance about a mile away. There I saw the swell exploding in 10 meter high foam eruptions onto the breakwater stones and that is not very nice. The low running swell was exactly under the right angle straight into the port entrance and once in, collided with the eastern arm of the breakwater. We were still in deep water so we did not notice the swell that much but once the swell started to cross the shallow area in front of the port entrance, it built up in height and then crashed in full might against the stones. A sort of mini tsunami but without the deadly consequences. Continue reading

 It was a perfect arrival at Hualtalco with perfect weather forecast, as long as you could deal with a hot and sunny day. Forecast was for 30oC/86oF but it went in the end a few degrees higher and the mercury rose to well over 90oF (32oC) Beach life, under the bow of the ship was in full swing all day long. Apart from being a cruise port, Hualtalco is also a major resort for the Mexicans themselves and that made the beach and adjacent bars and restaurants booming. We were the only ship in today and thus we had the port to ourselves. It would be nice for local economy if there would be more ships calling than just Holland America Line but for us it is of course perfect as least we always have a berth. As soon as a port becomes more popular, the small ships (and believe it or not, the Statendam with 1200 guests is a small ship nowadays) are assigned to the anchorage. That means a rather long tender ride as the authorities (read shopkeepers) require us to tender into the port itself instead of into the nearby Marina. So let’s keep this hidden gem of a port away from the lime light so we can continue to happily dock here. Continue reading

As soon as we turned the corner to a more south easterly heading, the wind fell away completely and it turned into a hot and hazy day. The ships speed of 18 knots caused a gentle breeze on the deck and made it very pleasant to be outside. As long as you were careful with your sun block; as you tend to forget how hot the sun is burning down when there is a breeze.  Not only down, but also reflecting off the white superstructure of the ship. Our visibility was no more than 11 miles and that made is impossible to see the shore line.  Which is a pity as it is always nice to see the resorts of Zihuatenego and Acapulco coming by. Even if we cannot call there at the moment, it would at least be nice to see something.  But the lack of wind prohibited that and thus we had to be happy with the wild life and the occasional tanker coming by.  This is the regular shipping route between the port of Salina Cruz, just to the south of Hualtalco and all the Mexican ports further to the north and that means we pass them on a regular basis. Continue reading