Glaciers indeed have a micro climate around itself because as we sailed through the drizzle and drip during the early morning, it suddenly cleared and it remained dry all the time we were in the fjord. Luckily it remained overcast as well and the result was some incredible views of Sawyer Glacier. This Glacier tends to calve fast and sometimes it produces so much ice that we cannot even get into Tracy Arm. Because of the fast calving of the ice there tends to be a lot of blue ice, really compact ice, and if there is no sun light then it shows up very clearly.
Entering Tracy Arm
Tracy Arm is much narrower than the other fjords we visit and having the high mountains so close by on either side makes it a fascinating place to sail through. It is not so popular with cruise ships as Glacier Bay (which is permit regulated) as there is always uncertainty if you can get in and also because it does not fit so easily in a regular ships schedule.
Same view on the Radar
On the 7 day cruise you have to cut half a day off Juneau in order to do this, or you have to skip a port completely. We are on a 14 day cruise and that gives the time to allocate a full day to this scenic cruising and that works very well. The captain has ample time to get in and out, can stay as long as he wants, and then go with a sedate speed up the coast to Juneau where the ship arrives in the early morning for a full day.
And that is what we did today. We were the only larger cruise ship in, there was one smaller one the L’Austral and for the rest a rich assortment of tour boats in all shapes and sizes. We do not like other cruise ships in at the same time as they tend to get in the way, certainly in this fjord which is very narrow but we do not mind tour boats as they help to give the guests a better perspective of how big everything is, including the ice cubes.
L’Austral. A sort of Seabourn Cruise as long as you Speak French.
It takes a good two hours to sail in and this morning we made a reasonable time as there was very little ice in the way. Then by 11.00 we saw the blue glacier when coming around the final corner and here we stayed for over an hour. There was some ice in front of the Glacier and that did not allow us to go into the wide pool in front of the Glacier itself, we had to stay at the corner. Still the view was magnificent.
Face of the glacier. The black dots are tour boats
Although hard for us to see there were seals on the ice floats, in the same way as in Glacier Bay. Here they are safe from the Orca’s / Killer Whales which have fresh seal or seal pup high on the list of their favorite snacks. But they do not like the constant popping noises of the Glacier, caused by the cracking off the ice, as it upsets their sensing system. It drives them nuts as my wife would say. So during the pupping season the ice floats are full of young life.
Same view on the Radar. As far as we could safely get in.
The Glacier has been retreating for the last 50 years, with about 45 meters (approx. 150 feet) that can be seen at the mountains on either side. At the entrance the greenery reaches the water line, while near the Glacier the rock face once covered by the ice is still bare.
Note: Closer to the Glacier there are no trees on the side of the mountains
By noon time, the Statendam started the slow sail to the outside again and spent the remainder of the afternoon sailing through Stephens Passage. By 06.00 hrs. tomorrow we will enter Gastineau Channel and dock in down town Juneau, for a long day.
The Bridge Team. Captain, two Navigating Officers, the Quartermaster between the wheel. The Pilot and in the far window the Staff Captain.
Juneau Weather: Overcast with rain showers and temperatures around 60oF./ 16oC.
The latest idea of making photos at the glacier. you have to commend the Ships Photographers for trying to make you cruise a memorable one.
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