Golfo Dulce is about 340 miles steaming from the Panama Canal and we had a scheduled afternoon sail through. Holland America started calling here in the late 80’s as an alternative to Puerto Caldera which we had to cancel once because the swell was running the wrong way. Feedback from the guests has been so positive that we have kept the call in the schedule, whenever it worked out with the mileage to make between the various ports. If we run the cruise southbound then it is a morning call, so that we still are on time for the Panama Canal and if we are northbound, it is an afternoon call so we do not have to race all the way from Panama to make it on time for a late morning visit. Early afternoon works better anyway as we can offer the guests a full morning program with the Cruise Director. Based on that philosophy we sailed into the bay around 1pm, and arrived off Golfito Roads an hour later to embark the authorities. Golfito is a banana port and predominantly used by the Chiquita Company. As we are sailing through Costa Rican territory the ship has to be cleared and for us that works out very well, because tomorrow we are in Puerto Caldera, which is also Costa Rica. Thus we get cleared here for tomorrow as well. Because we do not touch land anywhere inbetween, the clearance stands for both calls. During our scenic cruising the authorities remain on board, to make sure that we do not stop anywhere during our scenic cruising. When we leave the bay we briefly stop at Golfito again and they leave by the boat that brought them to the ship in the first place.
Golfo Dulce is surrounded on all sides by tropical rain forests except on the north side of the entrance where there is a large sandy area with palm trees. On the eastern side the tree line comes all the way to the water’s edge and that is where we do our sail by. That area is part of Piedro Blancas National Park. Here and there between the trees you can see low housing, which is mostly hotels specializing in Eco Tourism. I was told that one of the hotels is specializing in honeymooners who want to do back packing in the jungle. So there is a niche market for anything as you can see. Although we had a rainy morning, we were lucky with the afternoon weather as the grey clouds cleared away and so we had a great view of the lush green coast. I can use the word lucky as Golfo Dulce is one of the wettest places in the world with an average annual rainfall between 4,000 and 5,000 millimeters which translates in 12 to 15 feet. October is the worst month when about 600 millimeters rain fall. With it now only being mid November means that we are not that far away from that very wet period; so we were lucky today. Thus we sailed along this national park for an hour and then turned around and went the same way back, giving the guests with balconies on the portside also the chance to have a good view from their cabins.
Golfo Dulce seldom has bad weather apart from the torrential rain falls, that is because it is protected from the East by a mountain range and from the west by the Osa Peninsula. The first westerners in this area were Hernan Ponce and Bartolome Hurtado, two Spaniards who came overland and then peddled around here in a canoe in 1515. I do not think that they were here for the scenery but more looking for gold. They ran into a spot of bother with the local Indians and left the area in great haste. Peddling furiously I assume.
On the west side is a resort called Jimenez, quite well-known for fishing and other water sports but it is only useful for us to go by there during a morning call, as you need the sun in the back to be able to see something. For an afternoon call it is better to stay on the East side.
By 1630 hrs. we had said goodbye to our local authorities and we set sail for Puerto Caldera, 160 miles up the coast. Tonight we will travel at a slow speed and arrive at 0500 tomorrow morning at the pilot station. No doubt I will come across a very disgruntled cargo captain there, as one of the container ships alongside has to make way for us, and will only be allowed to re dock once we are gone. The weather is still on our side; it will rain during the night and then from 0700 until 1500 hrs it is supposed to be sunny and dry. Exactly during the period that we are calling there.
November 19, 2011 at 12:36 am
Captain- my wife and I love your blog and follow it whenever you’re posting. My question is what exactly it means to “clear the ship?”We know generally about the process, but what exactly does it entail for you and the staff? What kind of information do you have to provide the local authorities? Thank you.