2025 June 09: Dun Laoghaire, Dublin, Republic of Ireland.

By 07.00 hrs. we were at anchor of the port of Dun Laoghaire (pronounced Dun Leery) for our visit to Dublin. We were the only cruise ship at anchor but were kept company by a car carrier and a cargo ferry (think containers on truck wheels) The Irish Navy came out to see if the invasion by 2.500 HAL guests was friendly and then trundled off to the East.

Welcome to Dun Laoghaire or Dun Leery.

We were anchored quite far out and hence the tender ride was a good 15 minutes. (For more details about the anchorage, see my Silver Spirit review elsewhere on this website) Each of our tenders was accompanied by a speed boat to keep them going in the right direction. Most likely to prevent them from straying from the right track and of course very handy in dense rain or fog.

The port of Dun Laoghaire. A tender (white dot) following the shore speed boat (black dot) can just be seen. It was a grey dull day with the occasional sprinkle. (The Scotts call a sprinkle “sprat” and the Irish do not even think that that is rain)

We have been to Dublin many a time but never to Dun Laoghaire itself and thus decided to walk into town. According to the Dublin tour guides of the past, the town was very small with not much there but this turned out not to be the case.   Many guests were on tour and a good number of the Dutch took the train independently to Dublin as the train station is right off the dock where the tender arrives. The tour buses use part of the ferry dock platform which was in use until 2014. Then the ferry service was consolidated in Dublin so now it is a pure tourist port. It leaves me a bit puzzled why they do not make it more cruise friendly so that at least the smaller cruise ships can go alongside. Who knows maybe in the future?

An ornate Water fountain on the promenade in Dun Loaghaire. There were several of them near the sea front but this was the most ornate one I could find. I wonder why the water fountain is under cover? Maybe the Irish do not mind STANDING in the rain but do mind DRINKING in the rain.?  Who knows?

At  11.00 hrs. open tenders were announced and we hopped ashore. The main street is just behind the railway station and about a 5 minute walk from the terminal. And then we found out that it is not such a small place at all. The main shopping street runs for a mile with lots of small shops on either side and all seemed to be doing good business.  The two biggest structures in the street were the local hospital and a large Tesco Supermarket, which we had to visit to pick up Irish Tea (Barry’s Gold) for a Dutch friend of ours. As this tea is nearly impossible to get anywhere else but in Ireland. (Of course there is the internet but since Brexit the import costs are ridiculous)

The town also hosts the National Maritime Museum of Ireland which is located in the Mariners Church built 180 years ago. I was well aware of this very nice museum but it focusses mainly on local and coastal issues and hence of less interest to me who is mainly interested in Ocean Liner History.  I overheard an American guest later on saying that his visit was marred by a wedding shoot and a fussy photographer.

Around 13.00 hrs. we returned to the ship and decided on the Lido as they had Oriental Corner today in the “Distant Land” section.  That gave us time in the afternoon to walk around the (very quiet) ship, to see what had changed since 2018 when I was part of the startup team. (see the blog section of this website). Apart from the addition of the library  not very much.

This whole center section is a waste of space, if none of the equipment is working and calls for a decent seating area (with a little bandstand with a guitar player) where a poor bloke can have a nice pint.

A disappointment was the Crows nest. The HAL President between 2015 – 2020 had this vision of an immersive shore excursions station and installed  an elaborate set of equipment in the space to make it possible for the guests to study their tour and then book it at the shore – excursion office in the sb. aft corner.  Two of the big screen tables had been removed already and card and puzzle tables installed. The Navigation stand  (2 large monitors) was out of order and also the wall panel with shore excursion options was not working. Leaving the whole center of the space as a vast and empty expanse.

The portside sort of works with the Crows nest Bar (reduced in size as it also has the coffee stand in it) and the portside aft captains corner has been turned into an Arts and Crafts center, which works very well. I just hope that somebody will have the leadership to turn the center of the Crows nest back into the nice cocktail lounge that the Crows nest originally was designed for back in 1983. (With the arrival of the Nieuw Amsterdam (III)). The Commodore Club on the Queen Anne is a sheer delight compared to this. As we now see with so many Dutch on board, the Ocean Bar is far too small for cocktail time and music in the other venues starts later and have less of a “cocktail atmosphere”.  Room for improvement here , room for more revenue options.

The Queens Lounge, now called B.B King. In my opinion the most beautiful show lounge on the high seas. And an excellent venue for Classical. It was not very busy but then most guests had come back from shore as late as possible and were still recycling themselves.

For cocktails  we went to the classical music concert in the Queens Lounge (now named BB King ) where a very talented Classical Trio played the First Piano Trio (for violin, piano and cello) Opus 70 by Beethoven, called the “Ghost Trio”. This name is due to the second movement being a bit eerie and with some phantasy and eyes closed one can imagine scary ghosts floating down the stone stairs of a haunted Castle. The Queens Lounge is one of the most beautiful Lounges afloat in my opinion (and I have seen a few by now also with the competition) and a sheer delight to be in.

From there it was dinner in Rudy’s Sell de Mer Restaurant. Rudy Sodamin has left HAL some time ago he went cooking for Princess Cruises but his name lingers on. This is supposed to be the top specialty restaurant on board (cover charge $ 55,– and with an extra $ 15,– supplement for Dover Sole) so we were intrigued how much better the service would be. I already knew the kitchen would be good as it is a separate kitchen from the regular main dining room, so much more attention can be paid to each personalized dish).  This turned out to be the case as my butterfly tender loin came out perfectly.

The Sel de Mer Restaurant. Our table, to the left, under a painting of Magnus Sodamin. I do not know if it was any relation of Rudi although both are Norwegian.

The service again lacked of attention to detail, although the waiter thought he was wonderful. But one should not find a seized up salt shaker on the table, empty glasses and cans should not be left on the table when used, until pointed out. Plus the waiter had also no idea what a Leffe Beer was and so was not intimately aware /trained of what was on the menu/wine list  (The are several Belgium beers on the mainly French menu) etc. etc.  To my shock the cheese trolley was gone and replaced with a cheese plate.  (And served with no explanation of what sort of cheeses it were) So in my personal opinion, the “Sel de Mer” is  not worth the current price, even if you have on board credit.

Then to the show. This evening only 4 singers, the two men and one lady from the regular cast show and the one ladie from the Rock Lounge and as usual they were very good.  Tomorrow we are in Douglas, Isle of Man, which is an anchor port again. The harbor is only small and mainly used by ferries. The weather looks sunny (with the 20% rain factor) but I am a bit worried about the wind direction as the anchorage is fully exposed and during the night I felt the swell bumping under the stern and that is never a good omen.