- Captain Albert's Website and Blog -

Ocean Liner History and Stories from the Sea, Past and Present. With an In Depth focus on Holland America Line

Category: HAL History (page 1 of 9)

Day 10, 2025 Dec. 26; At Sea. Day 2.

This morning we woke up to a slighty moving ship with a movement that a sailor calls “gentle” but a landlubber calls “annoying”. But the weather chart stays positive and the Bay of Biscay and surroundings remained very gentle, or -blue- on the chart.  So happy campers all around today.

Weather / sea forecast for today.

This is our second day at sea since leaving the Canaries Islands. 2nd Day of Christmas, called Boxing Day, as in England that used to be the official day of opening the “boxes” with the presents. Most of the crew finds this very funny as in their cultures they open their presents during Christmas Eve. So the joke of the day was, “have you been boxing ?”

As a reference to last night for those who do not know what Christmas “crackers” are. These are paper tubes and you pull at each side, with the person opposite to you at the dinner table. They then come apart with a “crack”.. Inside there is a paper crown (referring to the 3 kings of bethlehem) and the idea is to wear them during the christmas dinner. Inside is also a present, the quality depending on how expensive the cracker is. We had a honey stick, a wooden stirrer to get the last honey out of a honey pot & and a small steel cake form to make christmas cookies. Then there is the (rather naff) Christmas joke. “What sort of nut can you use to hang something on the wall ?……………. a wall-nut.

After breakfast we went for a walk-a-bout and ended up with a Q&A interview from the Cruise Director with our Lady Orchestra Conductor. Which was interesting to listen to as not many of us really know what goes on inside an orchestra. Unfortunately, no “juicy” anecdotes to liven it all up, but still very interesting. One could see that she is a real conductor and not an entertainer.

We made it early to lunch to day as we were sort of pressed for time as at 13.30 hrs. we had the 4th. and last recital of Robin Colville the piano player and we did not want to miss that. After that there was a full 1h.45 min. musical show in the Theatre at 16.00 hrs. which Lesley did not want to miss. I never know if my “cultural time span” can last that long, so we investigated first if we could find some places to sit, where she had a good view and I could slip away if to all got too much.

The Maestro explaining his first piece and on the balcony two saiors (the dark shapes in the corner under the saffolding) tying up the steps. Life is never dull on a cruise ship.

The piano recital was very good as usual but as it had been pushed to 13.30 it sort of interfered with the ships routine. While the Maestro was explaining the background of his first piece, above him on the balcony, suddenly “swish-swish’ could be heard caused by two sailors securing a scalfolding with pulling ropes through. Luckily they saw the light and did not start working, while below Griegs Solveits Song burst out of the piano. Then half way through the concert a steward came by with a trolley with rattling crockery. He had to go in the pantry in the back to prepare for English High Tea at 15.00 hrs. After the plates had been transfered to their locker, he switched on the pantry light (luckily there was a pole between the pantry and the stage so the performance was not affected). And then he switched on the heating cabinet (I think for warming up the teapots). Now all of us in the back could listen to Griegs First Piano Concerto accompanied by electric humming from a pantry. This was most likely a worlds first: ” Variations on Grieg’s Piano Concert no.1 by a Heating Cabinet”. ……….. I love to be part of World First premieres…………………………….

After the concert we walked past the shops and suddenly they were busy. This occurence happens near the end of the cruise and is called “The On Board Credit Effect”. If you got spending credit with your cruise and have not spent it, then now is the chance. The shops responded accordingly with 15% extra discount on certain items. We have run out of on board credit already, courtesy of cocktails every evening and the daily internet cost, so my bank account will take another hit when we leave the ship.

For the latter we got the luggage tags today. Cunard has the system that you have to pull off the old tags and then you get new ones and hence new ones were delivered. There are also companies who tell you to leave the tags on, as it incorporates the disembarkation color. Disembarkation time depends on what sort of cabin you have, or if you are independent or have scheduled transport. With our cabin level we can leave at any time, so we will aim for 08.03 off the ship, with the taxi waiting to take us back to the hotel at 09.00 to collect the car. Then I hope to be on the way by 10.am as it is a 5 hr. drive home, plus stopping for petrol and groceries.

The poster being used in the UK for this musical

Today we had a special cast / stage performance of a musical/play called “Come from Away”, telling the story of the little Newfoundland town of Gander that suddenly had to host 7000 air plane passengers when the USA closed its airspace when 9/11 occured. Doubling the size of the town when a large number of planes deviated to their old airport. The whole effort lasted1h.45m, and there was a full house. One at 16.00 hrs. and one at 20.00 hrs. And it was really, really good, with  a well deserved standing ovation at the end.

This picture comes from a website advertising the musical in the UK. There is a scene in there, “Kiss the Fish”, which is a tongue in cheek ceremony to become a “NewFoundlander’.  The town of Gander granted “membership” to all stranded passengers who were there and agreed to “kiss the fish”.

According to those who had seen the performance in London with “real professionals” and paid a high ticket price for the privilige, advised that this one here on board was soo much better. And I am not amazed as with the plethora of (large) cruise ships out there, the stage shows and its actors are getting better every year as the supporting teams behind them are getting more and more professional and better financed. Again no photos from the show itself, as somebody will  get upset when you do so……………..

Then it was cocktail time and we met Pamela Curtis. This was the Lady who was the highest repeater this cruise with 1250+ days. I posted the photo on day 3 when she got the flowers during the Captains Loyalty party. That photo was seen by my blog readers in Los Angeles, who then contacted Mrs. Curtis to let her know that she was now world famous. She then contacted me to meet for a  drink and a chat. Hence tonight. This is for my readers in Los Angeles.

Cocktail Time in the Commodore Club with the highest day repeater on board,

Tomorrow is our 3rd sea day, passing the coast of Normandy and then entering the outer reaches of the English Channel (or La Manche in French, as we are on the French side). Looking at the weather chart and knowing the way a Vista Class ship behaves, I think we will get some more movement. Not really rolling or pitching but more of the yawning movement that we also had south bound. It should not affect anybody very much as we all had enough training southbound.

Day 9, 2025 Dec. 25; At Sea.

On departure the Captain announced that we would have a smooth ride home, only somewhat marred by a strong wind on the bow. In general he was right. The sea swell was not predicted to go above 3 meters and that is something a Signature/Vista class ship can handle without too much issue.  However where there is 3 meters, there is also 3.5 meters and 2.5 meters and hence the ship was not completely still in the water.  I think the guests who occupied the cabins at the stern, did not completely agree with the captains assessment as there was some movement; and around lunch time today the ship was even pitching  But compared with going south at the beginning of the cruise we are having an easy ride.

The sea state expected today. It is still mainly blue. and that is good.

We opened our Cunard presents this morning and found two nice christmas balls for the tree at home and two christmas crackers with inside white and brown truffles. And the card from the company. Lesley and I have stopped giving each other presents a long time ago as after so many years of marriage we already have everything and if not, the wish is so electic that both would buy the wrong present. Hence  you could say that this cruise was our christmas present. And a very nice one, albeit a very expensive one.

The presents we found on our bed last night. Nothing “big” but nice to receive as a souvenir. The teddybear on the christmas ball is dressed in a Cunard Bell-boy custome.

After breakfast in the cabin (not that we are so posh but it is the best way to stay away from a very calorific breakfast), we had a walk around and were just in time to see Father Christmas arriving in the Atrium. This ritual is nearly the same on every ship. Santa Claus suddenly pops up out of the funnel greeted by as many screaming children as possible (we do not have that many on board this cruise but they still were capable of making a lot of noise). Then it goes in parade into the ship, at a distance followed by  the parents, as not every little Johnny stays with the group. Some of them see this as a chance to explore somewhere he has not been yet and then needs to be scooped up by Pa or Ma.

Santa Claus in the Atrium, flanked by his elf and two “snow persons”.

Cunard uses the Atrium for these occasions as Santa can sit on top of the stairs and thus can be approached that way by the childeren but also a lot of guests can have a look down from one of the 3 levels and at the same time do not need to stay for the whole “procedure”. Also adults were invited to have their photo taken with Santa Claus, an Elf, and two “snow persons”. Quite a few still felt like children at heart……….

At 10 am. The captain hosted the Festival of The Carols and Lessons in the main Theatre. This is a typical english thing, grounded in the fact that the King is the head of the English Church. On the ship the Captain is his representative and thus assumes that title of head of the church as well. Therefore it has been a long tradition on the British ships that the Captain leads the Sunday Morning church service on board.  On the British cruise ships this tradition is still here and the Captain still heads the service, at least when sundays are at sea. For Christmas, this service had been padded out somewhat with carols and the Master of the Vessel reading “The Lesson”. There is a merchant navy prayer & sermon book out there, so if there is a Captain, who is not so familiar with the spiritual side of life, then there are templates that can be followed.

That was as much christmas as we could find, the rest of the morning had the standard items, with dancing in the Queens Lounge, Shops sales, Casino open, etc., followed by the next music recital by Maestro Robert Colville, who did not disappoint and even did two encores  (Highland Chatedral and Variations on Lambeth Walk) so he over ran the alloted time. That caused several of the audience to leave because when it is time to choose between culture and lunch, …………………………………….guess what wins.

His Majesty the King, Charles II of Great Britain & the British Commonwealth. The general focus of his speech was on working together and reconsiliation.

By 15.00 hrs. a lot of guests were assembling in the Royal Court Theatre to listens to the “Kings Speech”. For me of dual persuation, feeling British after 32 years but still having a Dutch perspective on life, I always feel it necessary to follow both.

His Majesty King Willem Alexander of the Kingdom of the Netherlands spoke about cherishing of what connects us. Our mutual responsibilities, Our Democracy, Our Rights of Law and Our Environment. And the need to instill these values into our children.

No doubt the other Kings and Queens of Europe had similar messages for their loyal subjects in a world that is getting ever more polarized and less repsectful of each other.( I do not know if there is a International Queen & King conference before christmas but it would make sense as most of the contents of these speeches were similar but with a local tweak)

So with these  Royal Reflections,  I hope 2026 will be a better year.

The crew had their christmas downstairs, also received presents from Cunard, and had Santa Claus downstairs for photos.  Upstairs the afternoon was the regular seaday routine with offerings from all the concessionaires and then by 17.00 hrs. cocktail time geared up again.  Tonight was formal night with a theme of Red & Gold. Looking around the ship, quite a few of the ladies, including my Lord & Master, had found a dress with red & gold. I could join in with a red jacket and gold cumberbund & bow tie, but in general the Gents where less brave than the Ladies. (Although I saw a few gentlemen in very fancy jackets). As mentioned before, we normal go to the Commodore Club for cocktails and 99%  were in formal, and about 60% color themed. The amplifier challenge from last night had been fixed and tonight we had a Duo, called the “Radio Duo” with smooth songs.

Christmas dinner was a variation on the christmas dinner but (I assume) re-imagined by Top Chef Michael Roux so a lot of the trimmings were not present. But we had fancy christmas crackers to pull.

The Lavelles. Three British Ladies who gave a very nice show. They will do another one later on in the Queens Lounge. (Photo Courtesy from somewhere on  the internet, a poster of when the Ladies were performing)

The show tonight was  a group of three Ladies “the Lavelles” who sang Motown hits from the 1980’s etc. And they were very good. Motown is not my first choice but the songs were belted out on “full volume” and high energy.  This was followed by a short performance from the cruise staff and cast with the 12 days of Christmas. The nice thing of this song is, that if it is done right, it goes completly wrong and ends up in complete mayhem. We were not disappointed………. and it was good fun to watch. Unfortunately I cannot show photos as there was this voice on the Tannoy again, advising everybody that recording was strictly forbidden. As mentioned before, I will never understand that.

Tomorrow is our 2nd day at sea, and the weather looks very good. Smooth seas, hardly any wind and with only a low swell running. Tenperatures are slowly dropping and by the time we reach Southampton, it will be down to 6 or 7o Celcius.

 

 

Day 8, 2025 Dec. 24; Arrecife de Lanzarote, Spain.

Christmas is coming.

The more south we go, the less swell there is, and apart from an occasional bump, the ship sailed quietly through the night. Ending up at Arrecife harbor by 07.30 in the morning. With us again the ms Ventura and we were joined later by the Mariella Explorer, sailing for TUI. The Ventura was at what they would call here the cruise ship pier as it is the closest pier to town. Tui is sometimes doing change over’s here but uses the end of the sea wall, where they have a large marque for handling guests and luggage. We were at the same pier but slighlty further in.

Today the marquee which acts as a cruise terminal  was in use for screening the returning guests of both the Mariella and the Victoria.  The harbour is a considerable distance from the town of Arrecife and hence there was a shuttle service available to reduce the 30 minute walk to an 10 minute bus ride.  The Ventura guests did not have a shuttle as they only had a 15 minute walk from their ship directly into town.  The shuttle ran very frequently (waiting time limited to loading time) and dropped everybody off at “The Marina”. From here it was another 8 minute walk to the boulevard where the first restaurants, bars and small hotels were located. From there, walking alone the waterfront, it was another 5 minutes to the main shopping street. “The Marina” turned out to be made up of bars and restaurants, (and a Burger King)  and a few souniver shops. There was a small Arts & Crafts market outside so those for whom it was too far to walk into town, could still do some shopping thearapy.

The shuttlebus transfer is charged at $ 10,– a person, but is included for Queens and Passenger Grill guests and those on full fares. They scan your cruise card when boarding the coach and, if applicable, the $ 10,– gets charged to your account. It works the same way for the crew, who travel free of course,  and the “Traffic Controllers”, who control the guest flow to the coaches, shove a few crew onto each coach. That is something I can always appreciate as crew cannot always wait until “all the guests are gone” as they simply do not have the time. Not that many crew went ashore, the distance & time is simply too much if you only have a few hours off. Those who went, ended up in a super market again (same chain as yesterday) to stack up with whatever a crew member needs.

The ground cut open for further development. No sand, no flowers no greenery, apart from some mosses. Barren as far as the eye can see,

Drving into town, is basically driving over an asfalt road  with on either side lava as Lanzarote is a volcanic island that only recently (million years ago or so) became extinct. Long time ago I did a tour around the island which was facinating and beautiful as long as “stark” is what you like. What I remember mostly is how hot it was, so when in later years I could see more lava and rocks in Iceland with a much more gentle temperature, it shifted my focus point somewhat. But today (cold for local standards as all the old locals had thick coats or vests on) it was a perfect day to take the tour. But we went into town.

In case you wonder what Santa drives in Spain ? It is not a sleigh, it is a VW bus.

At the entrance to the town was a christmas fancy-fair, similar to the one we saw yesterday in Las Palmas. I wonder if that is a sort of Christmas tradition they have one in each port during the festive season on the Islands. Fully focussed on the younger clientele of course, but a Ferris Wheel and Bumper cars also get adults excited. It was still closed but it might have opened up around 17.00 hrs. as that happened at Las Palmas last night. The little pubs & terraces were by 11.00 hrs. already full with eager clientele and it was interesting to see that the menu’s were in Spanish, then German and only occasionally in English or French.

The main shopping street, at a quiet moment. This was lunch time so all the tourists had moved on to the pubs and restaurants.

The main street was a very nice and clean shopping street, full with christmas decorations so it seemed that here, they kept restaurants and pubs outside of the main street environment. I do not know how it works retail wise but for the flow of traffic (several 1000 cruise guests marching in and out) it worked very well.

The main view when coming off the shuttlebus. All that is white are small hotels with restaurants and bars under it. German is more widely spoken here than English.

We were back by 13.00 hrs. and decided on lunch in the Lido Restaurant as they had Spaghetti Bolognaise on the menu, cooked A-la-minute and that is something even a Queens Grill Chef cannot beat.  Disappointing was that the soft ice machine was for 50% out of order and the other one was in ” cleaning mode”  and thus lunch did not have a perfect ending. Hopefully they have a technician who will understand the “grave emergency” of getting this repaired ASAP, otherwise I will get withdrawal symptoms.

The Queen Victoria Officers Choir on the Atrium staircase. One of the cast members was conductiong and also leading the rehearsals of the Guest Choir on the ship. I did not recognize many of the officers but the gentleman in black on the top left of the photo is our Maitre d’Hotel of the Queens Grill.

The ship is gearing up for Christmas and that started today, more christmassy tables started to show up with candy houses, we now also have one opposite the Grills Bar, and the officers and crew are walking around with santa claus hats.

Latest edition to the christmas displays. The square thing in the right hand corner is a traditional Christmas Cake. which is a very dense cake, so you only get/take a small sliver and then eat it with very thick cream. 

Tonight at 17.00 and 19.00 hrs. there was the christmas choir performance of the officers of the Victoria but at 17.00 hrs, it was solely made up of Hotel Officers as Deck and Engine were still on full standby as we also sailed at 17.00 hrs.  At 18.15 hrs. there was storytime, read out by the Captain.

The rest of the evening had the same program as normal with the exemption of: at 23.30 there was the Christmas Eve service for protestants in the Queens Lounge with a Reverend and at the same time  the Roman Catholic service in the Royal Court Theatre with a priest in attendance. For the Jewish, the Channukah candles were lit at the entrance of each restaurant and the Pursers desk (last candle, last night) but I do  not know if we have a Rabbi on board this cruise as well.

When I was Captain in the past I always encouraged it, when all three were on board, with the request if they could not do something together especially for the crew. One year, the 3 of them  organised  a-get-together with the crew and announced themselves on the posters as : “The Holy Trinity” . Inviting all  Officers and Crew for a service without boundaries in the Crew Mess”.  That was such a success that it was repeated a day later upstairs on request of the guests , when they found out about it from the crew.  It did not always work as sometimes some of them were too rigid in their convictions but when it did it was always a great success. Even groups of the muslim community showed up.  I think the first year it worked was, when the protestant representative was  a Vicar of the British Seamans mission, “The Flying Angels” and they are known not to take things too seriously, most of them being ex sailors themselves.

The main show was focussed on Christmas as well, with a Cast performance called “Deck the Halls” with christmas songs made popular by various artists.  In the Queens Lounge the regular dancing was going on (every night by orchestra or recorded music for squence dancing) but tonight the two singers and orchestra had everybody ball room dancing to christmas tunes.

Back in the cabin. we found a Christmas card from the company, two Christmas “crackers” with chocolates and two baubles to hang on the christmas tree at home.

From Lesley and I:

Merry Christmas to all my readers and we hope that all your christmasses will be as bright as the star of bethlehem.

As you can see below, Santa Claus would prefer to be somewhere else at Christmas.

For Santa Claus himself though not all his own wishes are coming true……………………………………

 

 

 

 

Day 07, 2025 Dec. 23; Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, Spain.

Aerial view of the port of Las Palmas de Gran Canaria. The cruise docks are to the left at the inner part. (Photo courtesy: unknown drone photographer on the internet)


And thus we sailed through the night a bit further to the south to the largest island in the group and that is called Gran Canaria. The whole name of the town, Las Palmas de Grand Canaria,  is really a mouth full, but as there are so many ” Las Palmas” towns and villages out there a bit of specification is necessary. Most people think (when hearing the name) about the  town on the island of Ibiza and that they do not like very much over here.  This Las Palmas has a very big port, as apart from serving the island it is also a transit hub between Africa, Europe and the Americas and a home port for a large offshore fleet and fishing fleet.  The off-shore  fleet is involved in cable laying, windmills, oil operation and a lot of scientific research for future exploration of the seabottom with all its minerals.  It was an important navy port in both the world wars and during the cold war as well. Hence there is still a considerable (Spanish) navy presence.

Cunard has been going here for a long time. It even sent the Queen Mary  during her twilight days of North Atlantic service when even unsuitable ships (air conditioning….) were sent cruising.

For the cruise ship guests it is a good port as the town is very close to where the cruise ships dock. Yesterday a shuttle service was available (not free) from the gangway of the Queen Victoria as it was a good 30 minute walk to get to the first shop in town. Today, it is just a quick walk out of the ship and dock and you are there. Hence it is very popular as a day -stop but also as an embarkation port and the big terminal can handle two large cruise ships on one day for a change over. I have seen photos with 6 big ships in port and all their guests are let over the pavement through the one terminal gate into the town and back. Return security is provided in the terminal building so you are not bothered with it when stepping back on board and as we saw today it all ran very smoothly.

Most of our morning was taken up with a visit to the Guest Laundry. The Queen Victoria has one on each deck, with on average 3 washers, 3 dryers and an ironing board. All free of charge. Modern front loading machines with digital menu’s, which on occasion create challenges for the older Americans cruising who are still used to “open the top & turn the dial” machines. I love laundrettes on board as it is a great service to the guests when a quick wash is needed. Big stuff can be sent to the ships laundry; but be careful with lace & ruffles as most ships laundries seem to have a challenge understanding that standard pressing is not a solution to spruce up that sort of fabric. What is very nice is the soap now comes is in small sheets (looks like a slice of cheese in thickness) so no more messing around with soap cups or pushing a soap dispenser “at the right moment”.

Machines on the Queen Victoria.

On Holland America the self service laundries were not installed on the Vista Class and later ships, much to the annoyance of the guests. But there is a nice anecdote about that. With all the HAL ships in Alaska in the summer time, each ship had about 150 to 300 guests joining in Juneau or Skagway who were coming down from the overland tour in Alaska; some of them having been on the road for over 25 days. They all wanted to do their laundry of course but whatever the ship tried, there is no way you can handle 300 guests who all want to spend most of the day in the laundry, getting through 3 or 4 suitcases of clothing.

The guests of course did not understand why they could not get access to a machine “while the others keep beating them to it” and thus it rained complaints and the Comment On Board Form (COB) rating for the self service laundries was very low. It also dragged down the overall cruise experience rating.  (One 1 on the rating takes ten 10’s to get it back to a 9 average)   In the end the CEO, President and later also Chairman, Mr. Kirk Lanterman decreed “NO MORE LAUNDRIES” on the ships. We on board tried to change his mind with the suggestion “why not take the laundries out of the COB paper” but that was not a good idea. Since then no more laundrettes on the HAL ships. I think the Prinsendam was the last ship who still had them until 2019. Cunard still has them and also on the new -Pinnacle Class- Queen Anne, there are 2 of them of quite a reasonable size.

So while the ship was exercising the emergency procedures, we went through the intrecacies of 21st century digital  washing machine menu’s. Of course there are no instructions on the walls and hence it is all a bit experimenting but we have something complicated like this at home, so it all worked.

Life boat drill impression by a famous Dutch cartoonist Jan Sanders. In the 1980’s he made a whole series of these sailors cartoons for a Dutch paint company “Holland International” who specialized in ships paint. Originals now sell for 500 – 1000 euro’s.

The ship had the “full Monty” today with the weekly emergency drill;, full crew participation and all 3 stages of the drill. Starting with a fire in the technical library outside the Engine Control Room. This is a very small space and thus very easy to extinguish a fire but it requires to re-locate the Enging Control Room – Control to the bridge,. Nowadays with networked computers is not so difficult but it can still give a chief engineer palpitations when having to do it.

Extracting a crew member from a ballast tank. All ships have one of these tripods on board together with a small winch. When safely possible a volunteer is used, which most often is ………………….. the cadet. As he/she “has to learn ti al”.  (stock photo from the internet)

The Captain decided to make it even more exciting by simulating that somebody was stuck in a Ballast Water Tank no. 6 (that is down on D deck/tanktop) and that meant that the crewmembers who are part of the “Confined Space Rescue Team” had to go through the motions of getting somebody out. (Not so easy as  the entrance man-hole to the tank is not that wide) The medical department is part of this team and had then the pleasure to be called not too much later to Deck 9, that is 12 decks up from the entrance to Ballast tank 6. The rest of the crew (there are 985 of them on board) was by then assembling at the muster stations.

Here they got an additional treat  as 150 of them (143 + 7 crew) had to exercise filling up the lifeboat to the legal capacity. There is a routine for this and the commanders need to train this, so everybody gets queezed in at one of the 140 spots.  But it has to be done in about 20 minutes. As we still have the required maximum time of lowering down to the water of 30 minutes. With 140 crew this works, with 140 guests, not necessarily. Especially if they are the size of 3 crewmembers. But that is why the ship has soo many liferafts on board. The law prescribes that 140  occupants should fit with a lifejacket but they do not have to exceed the weight of 75 kg. (For the newest ships out there, this has been raised to 85.2 kg, and for some offshore installation – with very burly roust-a-bouts – to 95 kg.) The crew normally enjoys doing this as it so different for the normal routine. But it is also often the first time that the Ladies among the crew realize that there are no toilets on board a lifeboat.

The shopping center seen from drone height. The brown ramp is route into the shopping mall and from there to town.

Then it was time to walk ashore and to have a look  at downtown Las Palmas. The local authorities had, had the clever idea of building a large shopping center just outside the cruise terminal and to get into town , the shortest way is to go through it. So 7000+  guests marched ashore that way and then marched back the same way. The shopping center was not completly full with shops yet and I do not know where they still in the opening process or if it was  matter of recession. But the crew was in heaven as it had a big supermarket inside. And indeed most of the shoppers were crew, returning to the ships with bags full of washing powder, shampoo crips/chips and other essentials to survive below decks.

I was somewhat disappointed in down town. When I came here in the 1980’s the main street was full of little resturants and cafes spilling into the street and having a great atmosphere to deep in the night. Now many of those localities had been taken over by discount shops and places that sold trinkets. I think that with the Canaries now being so popular with package holidays, the emphasis of going out has moved to where the large hotels are along the beach, and not necessiarily in down town any more. ………….. Another Youth Dream shattered………………..

Back on board it was time for cocktails, this time without music, in the Commodore Club as they could not get the entertainer of the evening hooked up to the sound system. 4 experts searched, tried and scratched their heads,  for 45 minutes and still nothing. When we left we saw a very gloomy looking performer standing behind the piano (not what he was supposed to play a piano) and the bum of an electrician sticking out of the amplifier box.  The show tonight was Duo Lyodi, which was a telling of a chinese fable  by poetry , acrobatics etc. but without words.

Her Ladyship was more interested in reviewing Cunards price list as she has set her eyes on a larger cabin  but for a 7 day cruise next year.  I am still busy with getting this cabin uptodate. We had the saga with the DVD player that could not be connected( the new one now is),  but the remote control does not work with this set, we had a broken plinth repaired, a toilet seat fastened, an also glass curtains rehung and rehooked.

Now I am creating a  checklist of what we should have in the cabin. A lot gets listed on the website under amenities but when you then come on board, it seems that the Cunard policy is “on request”, but if you do not have that list in your mind, how do you know ?

We now know that fresh fruit is “on request”,  fresh flowers / plant is “on request”, The TV program is “on request”, the binoculars are “on request”, the “pillow concierge menu” is “on request” but nothing is listed anywhere in the cabin. You have to remember it from the website. Then there are no instructions of how to operate the DVD player or the coffee machine. (we got the instruction for the coffee machine but also “on request”. And all that “on request” is very irritating because all those things should be there when you step on board as you have paid for it. Now you have to ask/ “beg” for all these items and the concierge or the butler has to run for it. Also they do not offer it to you either, when you come on board during the initial meet and greet in the cabin;  no…………………. the guest has to take the iniative.

It does not stops us from enjoying this cruise but as Queens Grill Guests this should not happen at all.  Most company’s have a “perfect cabin set-up” which comes with a checklist of what should be in the cabin. A Housekeeping supervisor can then quickly check if it is all there. But maybe this checklist is also “on request” for the supervisor  from the boss.

Tomorrow we are in Arrecife de Lanzarote, our last stop before our 3 days at sea to return to Southampton. At the moment the weather looks good. Windy but with low swells so we might have a comfortable christmas  at sea.

Weather: Partly Cloudy with temperatures going up to the tropical temperature of 19oC / 660F. and very little wind.

Below the swell in the North Altantic as of today.

Weather. As  you can see the red line goes mainly through and a light yellow colors and that means that the swell does not go higher then 3 meters. That the ship can handle to ensure a smooth ride.

 

 

 

Day 6, 2025 Dec. 22; Santa Cruz de Tenerife. (Now in Spain)

We trundeled down from Funchal on the island of Madeira, to Santa Cruz de Tenerife on the island of Tenerife with the gentle speed of 15 knots, adjusting arrival there to suit the local authorities with their preference for the ferries. This can be quite irritating at times, because if a ferry is delayed, then other ships still have to wait. I experienced that myself once with an extra wait of up to 45 minutes, while everybody could see (including the Harbourmasters office as they have radar) that the ferry in question was still almost an hour away. Our maneuver would have only taken 20 minutes, so we would have been out of the way well in time, but “higher” insights (the harbourmaster sits in a tower high up ……) prevailed and we had to wait. Today the Cunard Victoria was not suffering from that but it was still tight as the gangways were only going out just at 10.00 hrs. and ships complement (security and shore excursion) normally prefer a little bit more time to get “their shop” set up properly. Luckily we did not have to wait for clearance as we were sailing from Portugal to Spain, both in the European Union.

Part of the (large) port of Santa Cruz. Opposite are two ferries with in the middle the ms Costa Fortuna. To the far left one can just see the bridge wing of the ms Ventura. The first white ship is a Car Ferry which was the one causing all the arrival challenges. The much smaller one, in the far corner, is a Fast Catamaran operated by Fred Olsen Lines on an inter island service.

We were far from being alone today. The Canaries are a hot spot for cruise ships nowadays as the islands can be reached from Europa in 2+ days, so guests can avoid having to fly, and if they fly, it is mostly a short flight and then you can do 7 ports in 7 days.  So today the following ships shared the rainly weather with us: the ms Ventura (P&O), the ms Costa Fortuna (Costa Cruises), the Mein Schiff 3 (Tui-Germany), and a small one, the ms La Belle des Oceans of only 5000 tons, she sat tucked away under the stern of the Mein Schiff 3, which is 20 times bigger.  This little one was built for the Japanese market as Oceanic Grace, back in 1989 and after a whole slew of owners, now  sails for Croisi Europe and is on a 7 day cruise around the Canary Islands. So a busy day in port with around 10,000 guests ashore, not counting crew.

The entrance to the Britannia Diningroom. It all looks in very good condition after 18 years of service.

Her Ladyship went ashore to have coffee with the wife of the Chief Engineer of the ms Ventura as they sailed together on the ms Sea Princess (formerly ms Kungsholm) back in the 1980’s. Who does still remember that ship ??  That gave me the time to go around the Victoria as most guests had raced ashore as soon as the gangway was out. Rain or no Rain.  The Queen Victoria has not changed much on the inside since 2007, no “Signature of Excellence” upgrades as HAL has been doing, but carpets had been replaced on a regular basis and the ship has been kept in a very good condition. Next dry dock is in the Autumn of next year and then they do have to do a lot of work on Movie – media etc. as they are running far behind with it compared to the competition.

The theatre as seen from the stage. This is the view an entertainer has when looking at the audience.

A Lounge which I really like is the main show lounge, called the Royal Court Theatre. Laid out as a London theatre from the 1920’s it gives an old fashionished and comfortable feeling  of “yes we will be entertained here”.

One of the murals outside showing the Shaftesbury Theatre, There are several of these located around the entrances to the Theatre.

They only thing that has misfired somewhat (Not Cunards fault) are the private boxes that you can hire for the evening (bellboy escort, champagne and nibbles). A very nice idea but then came the American ADA act which required the railings to be higher and of course to a height whereby the railing is just in your eye view. Cunard tried to avoid this by putting perspex in but this gives a distorted view so only the 2 upper seats in each box can peer over the rim and then it is still not great.  Also you watch the show under an angle  and that is not to everybodies taste. Hence my wife and I opt for the centre seats on the first elevation.

One of the theatre boxes. This is one of the best ones, as it almost views straight forward.

Moving on, behind the theatre on deck 3 is the Royal Arcade, e.g. the shopping area. On the starboard side it has a large store for the liquor, parfume and jewellery and on the same side but past the Queens Lounge it is the Bookshop (about 50% books and about 50% crips and candy). When the Queens came out, books were still a important source of revenue but that has diminished year by year. On the portside is the clothing and hand bag store store with just around the corner the “Cunard Collection” store with Cunard logo wear. Most bought item here (apart from fridge magnets) are the Teddybears, which are different for each ship. I do not know if the shops are doing well, they  never seem to be very busy (except for the liquor sales) but hopefully it works for them. The shops are run by a concession called Hardings and as is normal in the cruise business they pay a fixed daily fee, based on the number of guests on board, to the cruise company.  There are several of these company’s out there, but Hardings, Starboard. Effy and Duffry are the best known ones.

Overview of “The Arcade”. Shops on either side.

Below the shops is the Casino on the portside and the Golden Lion Pub (named after the golden lion in the cunard logo) on the right hand side. The casino is not very big as most British do not gamble. The Golden Lion is bigger than the Casino because most British do like a drink.  The latter space is designed, so it resembles of what most people think a British Pub should look like. At lunch time it also serves Pub-Grub, or pub food, but see my write up of a few days ago, since the menus have been “re-imagined” by Star chef Michael Roux there is not much “Pub” left in the “Grub”.

The Golden Lion Pub, inner side looking aft. There is a small bandstand, and the whole place is about 4 x bigger than seen on the photo. I have been to many a pub in the UK, but never have seen one with so much “chesterfield” leather chairs. Although I am all in favor of it.

When her ladyship came back, it turned out that they had been talking so much, that lunch had been forgotten, so I was dispatched to get something to eat from the Lido Buffet. They were just gearing up for “afternoon tea”.   This is a trademark service of Cunard,  English – High Tea- in the afternoon.  Queens & Princess Grill, get served in the Princess Grill, and the rest of the ship can go to the Queens Lounge. But that has limited capacity and thus waiting lines form. Plus guests who had their tea and finger sandwiches tend to linger, which can make the Queens Lounge a flustrating experience if you are not early. So there is also the Lido Restaurant. The finger sandwiches and cakes you have to get from the Buffet counter, but Ladies go around serving the tea. (This is english “Ceylon” tea, so not too strong, but it tends to thicken and gets darker if the pot of tea is not poored fast enough). It is a wonderful tradition that is nowadays  copied by a lot of companies.  The only problem is that, the brain always wants to eat more than the body feels it is ready to accept. ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, But such are the cruising problems in life.

This is another of my favourite lounges and very personal. You need to be into books to see how special this is. The Mary, Lizzie and Vicky still have a  the full library lay-out. On the Anne, although a bigger ship, it is already much less, but still better than on many other luxury ships out there. This two level library with comfortable seats, has a large selection of books, paperback exchange and magazines,  and all is executed in dark mahogany.  Attended for part of the day by a Librarian who also acts as the “internet guru”.

We decided not to go out for cocktails this evening as we had this bottle of sprankling wine from last night. So our butler provided a champagne bucket with ice and together with the 5 pm. canape’s, all was well in the world. Dinner in the Queens Grill was lightly attended again and then we went for the show.  Tonight it was “Sounds of London”, focusing on songs of artists connected to the London area. (Elton John, Adele etc.) For this show they had beefed up the cast  to six singers and even the dancers were singing (or at least giving a very good impression of doing so).  Unfortunately I cannot post any photos as there was once again, this person on the tannoy who advised no photos, no video, no recording.  It is a copyright issue, but it does not make sense to me in a practical way as those who want to record/take a photo will do it anyway, and the artists miss a great opportunity for free advertising.

A few days ago I posted a picture of the Christmas village in the  Queens Lounge. The ship has two more of these displays, albeit smaller, and they are in the Lido. This is one of them.

Tommorrow we are in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, another island of the Canaries, some 87 nautical miles away. It will be a parade as the Mein Schiff 3 and the Ventura will also be there. Weather: dry and partly overcast. Temperatures around 18- 20oC / 65 – 70oF.

 

 

 

 

Day 5, 2025 Dec. 21; Funchal, Madeira. (Still in Portugal)

And thus the good ship Queen Victoria docked without any challenges in Funchal, Madeira. Also the ms Ventura had been able to find the place and was docked ahead of us. Reason for that, was, that she had to race out at departure  to get to Santa Cruz de Tenerife and to get in ahead of the ferries. More about that later tommorrow.

The ms Ventura and ms Queen Victoria docked at the Breakwater.

With two large ships in, the south breakwater dock was nearly full. A number of years ago they built another cruise ship dock on the north side of the port, accessed from the main boulevard. Today there was nobody there but it is often used by the Germans (Tui and Aida) as a turn over port. It would have been nice to dock there as that would have avoided having to use a shuttle bus, or having to walk around the whole port to get to the same location.  That new dock is nice but it is the first time that I have seen a cruise ship dock at a pier with a small hotel and a museum on top. That museum is dedicated to the world wide known footballer (soccer player in the American langage) Cristiano Ronaldo who was born in Funchal.  It makes sense that they have a museum for him (although he is still alive and plays) as he is the most famous Madeirian ever.

Ronaldo’s Museum. Quite a few young boys were hovering around in football shirts and taking photos with his statue outside the entrance.

We waited for the exodus on the gangway to subside somewhat. To enable the exodus properly, there were 2 gangways for going out (only one on return) and so we made it ashore by 11.30. The initial plan was to get the yellow hop-on-hop off  Bus for a tour. The busses left from the ship but as it was overcast and thus without a burning sun, we decided to walk into town. We both have been around the island several times but downtown itself was a sort of white spot. Knowing that on Sunday the regular shops are mainly closed we navigated along the boulevard and then went up the hill.

The Funchal Christmas Market. The stands were the same as in any other city, Food, Drink (banana beer ?!) and arts and crafts. Anything were the flower shops, what one does not see very often in the more Northern Cities.

Here we came across a very nice christmas market; which felt wrong for one thing. NO snow.  With global warming we will have to get used to that in Nothern Europe as well but it still felt strange. But we had the chance to see Pointsettias in their natural habitat as in a lot of countries it is THE christmas flower. (On board the Queen Victoria the whole ship is full of them) In the Netherlands the flower/plant is even called “Kerstster” (Christmas Star). Music was provided by a local brassband, made up of various ages. Funny or unusual was, as long as we were around we did not hear a  single christmas song.  They played what I call “Salsa”, upbeat dancing music, arranged for a brass orchestra.  But they sounded very good.

The local brass band. One would expect christmas music but they played Salsa themed brass.

From there we found a Shopping Mall open, where the central plaza was given over to mainly coffee shops all with small terraces. In anglo saxon countries you mainly see food courts here but Portuguese people like to step out and have a coffee and chat to family and friends. As in many Southern European countries, a lot of the local life takes place outdoors and Madeira is no different. After exploring the local super market, average prices 1 euro dearer than on the continent  (most foodstuff have to be imported, as this is an island, so there are extra transport costs but compatible with the UK in prices. (Which is also an island but much closer to Europe but now has to deal with BREXIT import red tape and that drives up the price)

The whole boulevard was covered in this stringlights. I do not know if this was just for christmas or the whole year around, but it must have looked very nice in the evening time, for a boulevard stroll.

Back on board  we got ready for cocktails and this evening we had the Ukrainian classical trio playing. The three Ladies  are very talented and a delight to listen to. I think their english was too limited to say anything,  as often is done by musicians in an informal music setting, but they played and they played and that is what it is all about of course.  When we made it to dinner, we found that the Queens Grill was half empty, which is quite unusual. As we all have our own fixed table, guests arrive at different times but normally everybody is in by 20.00 hrs. So either we had a lot of exhausted guests who after Funchal could not handle a full dinner experience, or they went casual with a visit to the Lido or to one of the specialiities restaurants.  (Bamboo Restaurant in the Lido or the Verandah Steakhouse  on deck 3)

Mr. Mate Racz, violin player extra ordinaire. (*)

Then it was off to the show. Tonight we had a violinist who was giving a “Rock Symphonies” show with violin music fusion from  Vivaldi to Queen Rockband and to Wizard of Ozz. His name was Mate Racz and he is the other half of the Falmenco Show we had two days earlier. And boy…… was he good. Classically schooled (6 years in London and then assignments in Vienna etc.) and then he teamed up with the flamenco danser  (google his name or Duo Escensias) and are now touring worldwide.  He was the first peformer who got a standing ovation (as far as the guests could get out of their seats) this cruise for an entertainers performance.

Tomorrow we are in Santa Cruz de Tenerife in the  Canaries, with The Canaries being  Spanish Islands off the African west coasts.  We will dock around 10 am. as we have to wait for the ferries to come in as they have preference. Weather for tomorrow: Overcast with a 30% of rain, and temperatures around 18oC/ 65oF. So perfect sightseeing weather.

(*this is a stock photo of the internet as we are not allowed to take photos during the show)

Day 4, 2025 Dec. 20: At Sea, sailing towards Madeira.

We sailed last night at 18.00 hrs. from Lisbon, slowly moving down the river and as it was dry weather everybody could have a good view  of the “singing” bridge, the Vasco Da Gama statue and Belem Tower. The latter is where the pilot disembarks and that gives the option to speed up to stabelizer speed,  10 – 12 knots, and sail comfortably down the river. Halfway down the estuary the ship started to move again and has continued to do so for the night and the remainder of today.  The ships movement did reduce somewhat by evening as the 2nd (interfering) wave field diminished in influence but it remained wobbly. Tomorrow will not be a problem as  Funchal is located at the South side of the island of Madeira and that is in the lee side of most bad weather. Very light winds are so far forecast for our call and the breakwater is very long and large to keep all the swell out.

Today we had a full day at sea, including the World club gathering (repeater or loyalty party) and a formal night. Cunard runs an excellent lecture program with 3 lecturers so far rotating on this cruise.  Two of them were very good, and one (claiming to do something maritime but only one talk and then talked about Madeira wine) not so good as he read his whole lecture and was not dressed respectfully (no jacket, but a sloppy shirt) towards the audience.

Female Conductor, Mrs. Farnham. started out with directing theatre shows in London and from there progressed to choirs and orchestra’s worldwide.

So we went to  the 2nd & 3rd one. Nbr 2 was a Female Orchestra Conductor, who talked about how to become one, and the trials of making it as a female in a male dominated world.  When she started in 1991, 1.4% of the world’s conductors were female. Now it is up to approx. 5% and she was running classes to get more Ladies in front of the orchestra, instead of in the orchestra. A fascinating world that most people do not know anything about. Next one was a gentleman who had spent his life in Drugs Enforcement and, (this being his 2nd lecture) went from the legal business around the work, to the actual catching of drug smugglers accompanied with what went right and what went wrong stories.

The Christmas market in the Queens Lounge from 10..00 to 12.00. Not exactly very busy, but then the prices were not really “market value”.

Then we had to run to the Queens Lounge were our classical pianist was giving his second recital. This time with works of known composers (Lizt, Handel, Sebelius) but also lesser known composers (Nazareth, Bortkiewicz) and that brought a wonderful experience.  I got somewhat irritated at Housekeeping as they reset the lounge 5 minutes before the recital started (the floor had been cleared earlier for the Christmas Market = a sales effort from the shops and beverage) and continued finishing off after the concert had already started. Their supervisor had poked his nose in when they started but did not stay to ensure that the stewards stopped when the concert started.  Leadership takes a lot of training, even with a White Star program.

The Queens Lounge, still with the open dancefloor space recently vacated by the Christmas Market. Pianist Robert Colville is seen here still practising. Housekeeping moved in 10 minutes before the recital started and all guests were moved to the dance floor. Nothing wrong with that, but why start so late and thus not finish on time ?.

Then time for a soft ice in the Lido and back to the cabin as it was time to write yesterday’s blog.

Time to dress came at 18.00 hrs. as we choose to go to the 2nd party at 18.45 hrs. The first formal night was color themed Black & White, this second one does not have a theme and the third one will be Red & Gold.  So big boss decreed that we should have a different formal outfit for each night and hence for tonight it was blue formal for me blue jacket and blue cumberbund, to match her ladiesships blue dress.

In the grey mists of time Cunard held 3 parties, The Welcome on Board / Captains Intro party, then the World Club party  for the various levels of repeat guests (Gold, platinum, Diamond , achieved at by counting the days) and  also a “Senior Officers party”. When we went on the Queen Anne we found out that these 3 parties had been merged into one. Not nice for those who were looking forward to as many free drinks as possible, but understandable as each time they had to clear the Lido deck (section under the Dome) at 3 pm. in the afternoon to set things up for a party, to much annoyance of those on the sun loungers and/or watching the afternoon movie. If you have to do that 3 times in a 10 day cruise, then you get a lot of un-happy campers.

Wold Club party in the Queens Lounge. See above what a beautiful lounge this is for a party as long as not everybody insists on sitting down. The other 3 Ladies are the World Club loyalty team and they also sell cruises from an office on Deck 2.

World Club party in the Queens Lounge. See 2 pictures higher up, what a beautiful lounge this is for a party as long as not everybody insists on sitting down. Thus this evening we had this combined party again in 2 sittings and with literally everybody coming through the line dressed in Formal. What was nice to see is that more and more men are moving away from the standard black “Penguin Suit” and are starting to experiment with different color jackets. I have about 15  of them in various colors to tune in with my wife’s dress color choice and also because I simply refuse to wear an “undertaker suit” if I am going to a festive formal occasion.

So we had the chance to have a little chat with Captain Sharples, who turned out to be a good conversationist (not always the case, even with cruise ships captains) , then grabbed a drink and moved into the crowd. Those who could stand, did stand, leaving the seats graciously to those who could only sit.  It was irritating again to see that the invited officers were hovering around the front of the dance floor and were waiting for the guests to come over to talk to them, instead of being gracious hosts and mingle in the crowd.  Hence armored with a glass of wine Lesley & I marched over to a trio of junior officers who were “hiding” as far from the guests as possible and gave them a bit of training of how to entertain. They sort of freaked out when they found out my background but with a few stories and some Q&A they started to relax and enjoy themselves.

Then it was time to for Captain’s introduction which went in sequence of: first Chief Engineer ( he who controls the throttle, does control the ship), the Chief Human Resources Officer (all cruise ship companys have been upgrading the status of H.R as the well being of the crew is becoming more and more important), The Hotel Director (the only Lady among the staff), the Staff Captain (who was introduced as captain, to confuse things) and then the Guest Ambassador (who administrates the loyalty system) to introduce the guest on board with the most sailing days. This lady had clocked up 1200+ days since 1991. Her most beloved ship was the Queen Elizabeth 2 but she liked the new Queens as well.  It seems that the older ships, built as Ocean Liners, had a form of character that made them favourites what ever challenges they had when sailing. I still come across HAL guests who remember Rotterdam V (now in Rotterdam) as their favourite  while the new ships  have much better facilities. But they lack character and style. On those older ships, the atmosphere on board dictated how you went about your cruise and how everybody interacted. But those days of ” everyday sea day is a formal day except sundays” are long gone.

When coming down from dinner, we bumped into the Captain and his wife who were going to retrieve their 3 children from the Youth Club. They were also having to deal with the magic of a Youth Club on board. Day 1: they want to go home, Day 2: they will go home when asked, Day 3: they refuse to come out as they are “too busy”, Day 4 and onwards is drama and tantrums near closing time.  (I was once called out as Captain on such an occasion, when the mother in question accused the Youth Director about “brainwashing” her children, as they refused to come out, and neither Security nor the Hotel Director knew how to deal with it.  I managed to talk the kids around (not the mother) by promising a bridge tour with ice cream (which we did anyway each cruise in those days. Then the next day the father threw a tantrum as he wanted a bridge tour as well but could get not one as the (free) tours were fully booked.  ———–Working with people is wonderfull————–  So, we as Captain & family had another chat and I was drawn in to volunteer to take photos with the captain by passing guests.

Then a mysterious bottle popped up in the cabin. Sparking Wine, but why ?? No card, no nothing. Turned out that this was a gift on “repeater day” for those with a higher number of sailing days.

Dinner was a busy affair as a larger number of guests had decided that this was THE night to order A-la-Carte (like we did yesterday with Dover sole) so all the head waiters and the Maitre where in full swing to prepare, Dover Sole, Lamb, Beef Wellington and Chateaubriand at the respective tables. But with being on TOP and have the best trained staff in this Queens Grill of all the restaurants, it all went smoothly without hiccups.

Then we went to the show. Tonight the 4 singers of the cast were giving a performance focusing on Songs of the Movies (James Bond, Abba =the movie etc.) This was advertised in the daily program with having a back up of an 18 piece orchestra (so bascially all the musicians on board) but there were only 9 on stage. Still very good, but why mislead the guests in promising more than you can deliver ?.   The show was very good though. All the other Cast,  Entertainers and family had parked themselves in the front of the stage (in the least occupied seats) and they made enough noise to make the theatre feel completely full.

Tomorrow we are  in Funchal, Madeira. We will dock at the breakwater and with us will be the ms Ventura (P&O cruises) which will be with us in all the next ports. Lesley knows the wife of the Chief Engineer on the Ventura as they were at sea together in the grey mists of time, so she is trying to arrange a meet-up.

Weather for tommorrow: Sunny in the morning, rain possible in the afternoon with maximum temperatures  around 18oC / 64oF.

 

Day 3, 2025 Dec. 19: Lisbon, Portugal.

Happily docked alongside for the night, everybody on board had a nice and quiet night and as a result there were a lot more smiling faces in the morning, than the day before. The local authorities indeed keep to the regular cruise schedule and by 8 am. the ship was cleared and a steady stream of guests went ashore to invade Lisbon. It was still chilly as it had just stopped raining but by 10 am. the sun came out and the world warmed up to a balmy 15oC / 59oC.   The Alcantara cruise terminal can handle  2 very big cruise ships or 3 mid size ones but we were the only cruise ship in port. Although not completly correct, as laid up half a mile to the north was the ms Funchal, This is an old passenger ship built in the days that ships still kept a regular connection from Lisbon with the outer islands like Madeira. Then she was used for cruising, by a whole slew of different owners and has laid up since 2023. There seem to be plans to convert her to a hotel but not much progress has been reported.

The cruise terminal is about a 10 minute walk away from downtown, hence there was no shuttle. Cunard had made available an ADA shuttle for guests with special needs. For those who did not want to walk all the way, the Big Red -Hop on Hop off- Bus has a stop right across from the entrance and that is a good way to get a first impression of the City, if you have never been there.  Big boss and I have been to Lisbon many a time, (start counting  in 1981) so we decided to stay on board and have a good look around the ship.

Cunard’s Employee of the Month. (Sr. Machinist). Under the White Star training and excellence system. Cunard’s crew training  system is a bit more elaborate than with other company’s as it encompasses training and  good service in one system. Each crewmember gets dedicated training for this (and wears a pin when passed), while at other company;s it is often learning on the job with a bit of tuition on the side. How long the training remains engrained in a crewmember I do not know, as I saw already several officers walking around with their hands in the pockets. But I like the idea of having a more dedicated – formalized school – approach to quality.

I received a few comments about my remarks about the tipping situation at Cunard.  Here a little explanation. Cunard does not included tipping/gratuities in the cruise price. This company adds the tipping charge – gratuity- to your on board account during the first night. If you have it, you can use your on board credit for paying it. The gratuities are $ 17 for the regular cabins and $ 19 for the Princess and Queens Grill cabins, per guest, per day.  The daily amounts are quite considerable  and many guests reduce them to a level they find reasonable or take it off completely. But, and this is the nasty bit, you can only do this on embarkation day, hence long lines at the Pursers Desk after embarkation.

In the United Kingdom, same as in the Netherlands and Germany, you only tip for extra ordinary service that goes beyond what can be expected. Plus these are nationalities who do not like to be told how much one should “give” somebody.  You want to decide yourself if that somebody is worth the extra money. For regular pub or restaurant visits when ashore in those countries, you do not tip as everybody is paid at the minimum a normal daily wage. (This might be different in the USA where waiters seem to rely on tips to make a decent living)

Each crewmember, working for a mainstream company,  earns a decent wage, as stipulated by the ITF, (International Transport Federation) that regulates a minumum of seafarer’s wages. Then most companies have a top – up point system for each function. The gratuities that you pay EXTRA above your ticket price are divided according to that point system. All Hotel crew are included,  except Bar and Wait staff as they have the service charge on each drink (15%). Also Deck and engine crew (sailors, machinists) are excluded as they have a higher basic wage. Same goes for the Officers, they are on a different pay scale. If the gratutities paid by the guests do not reach the 60% of what should come in (e.g.  the 100%y when nobody would have taken off the gratutities), then the company makes up the difference until it gets to 60%.  If more than 60% is received then the point system kicks in. Crewmembers who receive tip directly from guests are supposed to turn those in, and are added into the point system pool. If that happens, I do not know.

Most guests that I know off, reduce their gratuities with a certain amount and then give the rest directly to the crewmembers who serve them.   Therefore more and more companies are turning to  “Tips fully Included”  under a “Have it All” system, or a variation of that. This is the system that I prefer as it works very well as long as the guests do not start tipping extra on the side and thus create preferential treatment.

That happened to us on the Silver Spirit (see write up on this website) where everything is (officially) included; but a few “high rollers” still tipped considerably with the result that the bulter for the cabin section shifted his focus towards those few cabins. In our personal situation, the butler had to offer to help with packing but we never saw him and later realized that he was suspiciously “present” for prelonged times near 2 cabins  occupied by a group of VERY well heeled New Yorkers.

There is no perfect solution to this tipping problem but I have found with all the cruises, with different company’s, that we have made in past period, that “All Included” or “Have it All” works the best. Both for the guests as well as for the crewmember. it takes all the worries away and gives peace of mind. At least for us. I hope this helps.

Deck 9 outside. Hamburger Bar, but there are also Hot dogs and vegetarian options on the menu.

Thus we went on a walkabout of the ship. With everybody supposed to be going ashore, we were expecting that the ship would be nearly empty. This was not the case. We have a rather advanced age group on board, expecially in the dearer cabins, so there were still many on board. I might have to get up very early one day,  to catch some of the lounges empty to get a good photo. As the Q.V is a HAL Signature ship, it has the same lay-out on the outside but the interior is fitted out differently according to the needs of he Cunard Product.

The Aft deck with the outdoor pool has on the portside a Hamburger kitchen and on the Starboard side a deck bar. The  hamburgers & related are included; while if you order a hamburger in the Golden Lion or via Room service where you have to pay for it (US $ 11,–). Although free for the grill suites. Today was too cold but in the coming days, we will certainly try .

This is the  aft section of the Lido on the portside and this area is  especially kitted out for Breakfast. (See the two toast machines in the foreground as no real British person will ever contemplate breakfast without toast)

The Lido space is identical as on other Vista Class ships but the lay-out is different. Port and starboard side are identical but split into 3 sections. The centre section on both sides has more separated seating areas and can thus double up as a speciality Restaurant. Which happens here. Half the cruise it is a “Bamboo” restaurant with Asian Fusion and during the 2nd half it is called “La Plaza” and transforms into an Italian Restaurant. The cover charge for both is $ US 15,–

The Winter Garden as seen from the Bar area.

Forward of the Lido Restaurant is the Wintergarden with an overdecked bar, sitting area and music stage under a retractable magrodome. This is where Cunard tries to concentrate guests who do not want to dress up, nor want go to the Golden Lion Pub. There is entertainment at lunch time and in the evening, varying from Irish Music to a Duo but also Disco.  As can be seen from the photo, it is very much favoured by the older crowd for reading as the chairs are very comfortable and the Lido Restaurant is very close by for coffee and nibbles.

Going further forward is the midships swimming pool and in front of that the Ocean Spa. This Spa is operated by the Steiner Cooperation, same as with Holland America, but is called “Mareel” to make it sound more posh. For the rest it is the same, including the prices which are not for the faint hearted. My wife has already learned that if she approaches me about going to the Spa, it works a lot better if I have had a few drinks and feel a bit more philosofical.

One deck up, overlooking the pool area, and behind the Cormmodore Club (Crowsnest / Onbservatory), is the Yacht Club.  This is a circular lounge with a band stand and a bar and is used during day time as a multipurpose room (meetings, choir rehearsals etc.) and in the evening as a Disco and/or Jazz club if there is live music.  We both have very good ears so for us it is not the place to be in the evening. But on shorter cruises it is full every evening. On a cruise like this, it would be an excellent place to show off all the versions of wheel chairs, rollators, buggy’s and other “special needs” adds on board; it would attract a lot of interest.

We had cocktails in the Commodore Club again as the piano player is very good and engaging, followed by dinner in the Queens Grill. We had pre-ordered at lunch time Dover Sole and this was served to perfection by the Head Waiter.  Tomorrow we will be at sea again and the ship will still be lively while going south but by late afternoon the movement should start to diminish, with rainy and sunny spells.

Cunard is investing a lot in christmas decoration and it shows. This is the lower Atrium and it looks very christmassy. Late this evening there was a classical trio of three Ukranian Ladies playing Christmas music and it brought a nice atmosphere to what can otherwise be quite a cavernous area.

 

 

 

 

 

Day 2, 2025 Dec. 18: At Sea.

We had indeed a bumpy night, with the ship being “attacked” with swell from 2 sides, creating a sort of swaying movement (the official name is yawning) that no stabelizer can correct. But in the course of the morning the wind started to subside and went down to about 35 knots and the North West swell eased off somewhat.

Our course is the red line and you can see that we started in the purple. That is 55 knots of wind.  The light green is about 20 knots. (Courtesy of the British Royal Meterlology Service. at Bracknell)

After breakfast again served by our butler, the ever efficient Ludmilla, we went out to to tell the concierge that the DVD player still had not been fixed. She was convinced that it was, as “the electrician” had been to visit. Obviously she had not absorbed anything of what I told her yesterday. So her phone came out again and  she was going to phone the Butler again. I stopped her and reminded her of what happened yesterday. Then we went back to the cabin to find Ludmilla , who had a solution. From somewhere she had conjured up a “new” DVD player but now with a 110 volt lead that fitted safely in the wall socket. Problem solved and kudo’s to Ludmilla. I will write her a commendation via the “White Star service” recommendation card system.

So what is the morale of this story: if you get flustrated with how long it takes sometimes to get something in the cabin repaired…… this might be why?  This is not just Cunard, it is similar for all companies. Our DVD player repair request went via Ludmilla who speaks -Columbian- English -, to the concierge who speaks -Bosnian- English, to the Front office who speaks -Philippino- English, involved a (Croation ???) Electrician, not even to think about houseleeping and front desk supervisors who might speak other forms of English again.  So they were all beeping each other and delegating from one department to another. Luckily my (retired) stripes still account for something and that kept the pressure up.I think that Ludmilla was able to “surf” on that momentum to find, and was given, an another player. The main thing is that for coming cruises, the DVD player works, if future guests would like to use it. I have done my good deed for the cruise.

Then we went to the library to see how the books were doing. Cunard maintains a very nice section of maritime books and I wanted to see if there was a new one that I did not know about. But no, all 75 were already in my collection. In time honored Cunard tradition all the seats in the library were taken up and mostly occupied by guests who were having their morning nap. There are also 6 internet stations there, who were mainly in use by younger guests (not asleep), with one gentleman working on 4 devices at the same time. (mobile phone, tablet, laptop and the library desk top) That will cost him a fair bit as the internet is not cheap with Cunard. ( $ 28,-  a day if bought by the day for emaiI, facebook and whats app , and $ 22,–if bought for the cruise for one device  = $ 264 for 12 days)   There are also packages for 4 devices and a premium package that includes streaming, voice calling and text but these are much more expensive. Depending on your repeater status you get some money off. We as platinum people received a discount of $ 80,–  The internet is on average very good, except at prime times (09.00 – 10.00 hrs and 15.00 to 17.00 hrs.) when the whole ship checks their email. Thus they still have to do something with the bandwith on board. Maybe they are doing that now as they were installing a new pod outside our cabin door today.

A new thing – fresh from the press – lesley got from her Travel ageant- is that on some cruises Cunard is offering what Holland America has been doing for a while,  a  “Have it All” package, whereby certain things, like the drinks package and the gratutities are included. Both are very expensive with Cunard and thus most guests pay them out of their onboard credit. Or with the gratuities, take them off (long lines at the pursers desk on the first day). So by following in the footsteps of HAL, Cunard will save the guests a lot of aggrevation  and discontent.

The shops sell duty free liquor and the prices are very good. Almost compatible with the English ferries going to the Continent. So we got 2 bottles of Bombay Bramble Gin which is a favourite of Lesley and very hard to get ashore in the UK.  We can pick it up on the day before the cruise ends. What happened to the days when the Duty Free was delivered to the cabins…………………

In the ship dance class was going on again, arts and crafts, shops were open, today they were plugging selected christmas gifts, and the rest of the public rooms were heaving. Everybody had to get out of the cabins for the cabin stewards to service and thus everybody was sitting all over the ship.

At noon time, the captain informed us that with keeping up the speed to 18-20 knots (15 knots required for the next morning) he would be able to arrive late evening in Lisbon to give us all a quiet night. And not having too much swell at the entrance, so he could get in. With the caveat that when he made the turn into estuary of the Tagus river, we all had to sit down as the ship might make some un-expected moves. The ship had to turn through the wind, which might cause the ship to list and then would get the swell on the stern  when sailing into the estuary entrance. That swell angle can  make the ship yawn (“lurch” in land lubber language) He would come back 15 minutes before he was going to make the manuver so we all could be ready.

The grill area by day time.

We like to have lunch in the Queens Grill and the service is very good; but afterwards I have to make an expedition to the Lido restaurant  for a soft ice cream. Most British company’s have soft ice, self serve machines, where you can fill your bowl or cornet to your hearts content, without the “expert interference” of a cook.  It is not good for weight control but Cunard does have the best soft ice on the seven seas. (When compared to Celebrity, Saga, P&O and Azamara) My own beloved company HAL does not even come close as they have frozen yoghert and the machines are quite often not adjusted properly.  Their saving grace is that they have a lot more condiments and sides, than Cunard, a lot of variations you can use to “top up” your ice cream to a real lunch time delight.

Part of the Commodore Club by day time. It is designed to give an Gentleman’s —- ships captains— club feeling with dark woods and ships models at the entrance.

For pre dinner drinks we like to go to the Commodore Club on Deck 10 forward. Last night and this evening it was not overly busy, no doubt courtesy of the moving ship. This is my favourite crowsnest as it is stylish and the service is efficient. Here Cunard has made an improvement. Since the 1990’s (and maybe even before) nibbles (peanuts and crips) were always “on request”. Now they come standard with the drinks; saves us having to remember to ask for it and saves the steward an extra journey to get the bowls when we forgot.

The Commodore Club by night. The grey hair and spectacles gentleman, seen above the railing is one of the two Resident Piano players who play during cocktail hours and also later on in the evening. This gentleman ran a sort of small quiz while playing. Tonight all his tunes had “flower” titles, or another common denominator. After 4 songs the question then was, what linked all four songs played.

While happily enjoying dinner in the Queens Grill, the Captain did come on the tannoy shortly after 20.00 hrs. with the urgent request to remain seated.  Now in Captains language, an “urgent” request is different than an “order”, so I knew it was not going to be that bad. And indeed, we only made one roll of about 3 degrees and had a few “bumps in the stern” and then we were inside. By 20.45 we sailed passed Belem Tower and picked up the pilot at 21.00 hrs.. Then sailed to the berth at Alcantara, swung around and were docked by 22.00 hrs. Giving all the guests and crew (and especially those guests and crew who had their cabins near the bow) a quiet and peaceful night.  Some crew experienced floodings on the lower decks, broken pipes, no doubt due to the movement of the ship, but it was all clean water. But that is life on a cruise ship that is 20 years old, the pipework becomes challenging.

We decided not to go to the show, a Flamenco show, but called it a day. Tomorrow we are not planning to go ashore but to have a good look at the inside of the ship. The weather in Lisbon should be nice, especially later in the day. A bit of rain in the morning, followed by sun shine in the afternoon and temperatures around 14 – 16oC / 57 – 61oF.

 

 

Day 1, 2025 Dec. 17: At Sea.

And Yes, it was wobbly during the night but the captain explained at lunch time that he was trying to keep up the speed as much as possible and had been running between 18 to 20 knots at times. This with the intention of getting to Lisbon as early as possible. The earlier he would be, the easier it would to get into the river Tagus, and from there into the shelter to the dock.  He did not explain that there is a low sand bar at the entrance of the river and if the swell gets too high, this swell builds up over the bar. This results in a higher top of a wave but also into a deeper trough which reduces the depth of the fairway considerable. That might mean you cannot go in even when the weather itself allows it. This is very hard to explain to guests without a 30 minute dissertation on it, so I can understand that he kept it neutral.

Captain William Sharples Commander of the ms Queen Victoria

The Captain is William Sharples and is somebody I do not know as he is from the generation after me, (I am getting old……) so I never saw him at the simulator or met him in a port somewhere.  But at least he is trying to communicate and explain what is going on.  So I expect that tonight, if the waves allow, he will speed up again, a bit of inconvinience late at night but will not be as bad as cancelling a port. The local authorities in Lisbon have already announced that if the ship comes in early, they will not come out early, so going ashore will still be at the regular arrival time.

So what are we doing this cruise, Southampton – Lisbon (19 Dec.),  Funchal (21 Dec.),  Santa Cruz de Tenerife (22 Dec.), Las Palmas de Gran Canaria (23 Dec.), Arrecife (24 Dec.), At sea (25,26,27 Dec) – Sout- hampton (28 Dec.) As you can see, Christmas and Boxing Day are during the last 3 sea days.

Going back to our cruise.  Breakfast in the cabin  is possible until 10 am. and is setup in the cabin by the Butler. This level cabin, does not have a high table for eating from, so it is set up on the small cocktail table.  But the breakfast came on time and was of good quality.

Our Christmas tree

A most peculiar item arrived in the cabin last night. This seems to be our christmas tree. It is a small fir tree but no baubles nor even a bit of angel hair to make it festive. The cabins, one class up, which are the named suites like Laconia and Carinthia, have a full size tree full with decorations. So  we seem to be entitled to a tree much smaller but without a single decoration………….. The mind boggles.

This is our cabin 6109, see below, located midships right off the center staircase. So in bad weather (with 5 decks above and 9 decks below) it is about the most stable area of the ship. The bathroom is made up of two sections. A wash basin area with toilet and then a separate area for the shower and the bathtub. Next to it is the walk-in wardrobe.  The wash basin area has a door from the sitting room area to reach the toilet and a door also from the bedroom area.  None of the cabins in Queens Grill class have  a complete separation between the sitting area and the bedroom area; this is only the case with the very top suite.  The entrance has a desk to the left and a small bar with basin to the right. There is a glass storage area and a fridge. With the cabin comes complimentary (standard) drinks, still and sparkling water, and 2 bottles of spirits.  This is refreshed every day by the Butler. It also comes with fresh flowers but for our cabin this has been reduce to a single flower in a cabin. But a long lasting flower. Then there is the option for fresh fruit.  But this is only on request. It is not offered.  So if you ever book a cruise, with this class cabin, check the list of amenities in the Cabin booklet “Voyage Guide” or the Cunard website. (The same goes for  borrowing DVD’s,  see story below, no note in the cabin, so you have to know.  Then the menus for the coming day for the Grills is given to the cabin, so you can scrutinize it at your leisure.  There is a elaborate in- room-service menu but I have not been able to find out if is the same for all cabins or that the availability depends on the cabin class.

Our cabin from a Cunard photo.

Being a sea day meant lectures in the Royal Court Theatre, so we debated to go and see them and then realized that Cunard broadcasts them live and runs a replay on the tv. And, at least today, the lectures from last cruise were also still running on the tv.

So when went for a walk instead. As is similar for most ships, the public rooms are on Deck 3 and 4, apart from the Lido restaurant (deck 9), the kiddies place on Deck 10 and then the Grills on Deck 11.   Between the grill restaurants is a small lounge reserved for Queens & Princess guests with a desk occupied by the concierge. We went to see her, as we had found a challenge in the cabin. The DVD player was not connected. Cunard, at least on the Victoria, has not upgraded their TV system yet. So you cannot see your On Board Account on the tv., nor have an tv entertainment system with a large movie library. A few movies (english, japanese, german, spanish) run as a loop, but not continiously,  and then there are a number of news channels. (Weather depending)  so when the ship came out, a Dvd player was installed and you could get DVD’s from the concierge.

I think that sometime in the past, quite a while ago, a guest took out the adapter (2 pin european to 2 pin American) for own use and did not put it back. Since then the Butler has tried to fix it but did not get anywhere as she ran into onboard “Red Tape”. As that is the same within every company I knew at once what was going on. The Butler is part of Housekeeping, so she called Housekeeping but they do not have adapters as they are kept by the Front Desk / Pursers desk./ Guest services. Housekeeping calls the Pursers office, who says ———- it is your cabin, and thus your problem. And thus nothing happens.

So I went on  a mission to get an adapter. I went to see the concierge, a lovely lady from Bosnian background and explained the conundrum. (11.00 hrs.) She at once called the butler to fix it. I saw the butler after lunch, who of course explained that she could not do anything, she had tried before. So back to the concierge to defend the butler. Now I explained who I was before retirement and also explained what is in the Carnival Safety Management System and directives, e.g. that “adapter control” lies with the Pursers Desk. She went on the phone again. The message delivered must have come through somewhat garbeled as a gentleman from the Pursers Desk showed up with a European extension lead and a adapter from European to English British. 10 for effort, 0 for results.  He left and shortly after, a lady from the front desk showed up, accompanied by the ships electrician to fix the problem.  The electrician looked at the DVD player and said, “you only need a adapter, there is nothing wrong”……………. Yes we knew that. Electrician and Pursers desk Lady disappeared again with the promise to get the right adapter.  When we came back from dinner, there was an adapter on the table, delivered by the Butler. But the story does not end here, so the saga will continue to tomorrow.

Dance Class in the Queens lounge. They show it at the same time on the screen in the lounge so everybody can see the dance team at all times. Topic today was the Cha Cha Cha.

Leaving the cabin, we passed by the Queens Lounge where a dance class was in full swing and then to the shops. The ship has two atriums, the big one in the center From Deck 1 to Deck 3 that is where you come on board, and then there is a small one behind the Royal Court Theatre near the bow. This one goes 2 decks up. On deck 2 there is on portside the casino and on the right side the Golden Lion Pub. One deck up are the  shops all around this open top of the atrium.  The location of these amenities  here is of course on purpose, every day, those guests going to see the show or lecture, will have to walk through one of these two area’s and might thus be tempted to have a closer look.

The staircase in the small atrium with the staircase going up from deck 2 to deck 3 (and going back down as well). If I would get a dollar for each photo taken on these steps, then my wife would be very happy.

I think due to the wobbly weather, the Golden Lion Pub was half empty (normally it is always full, often with people who camp out there all day long) and so we decided on a pub lunch. To our utter amazement Cunard had decided to “re-imagine” the pub lunch with the aim to raise regular pub-grub to a level of cullinary heights. Which heights Mr. Michel Roux, world famous chef, wanted to achieve I do not know apart from the fact that you now have to pay for half of the dishes. Lesley had Fish and Chips with the strangest batter we have ever seen. I decided on the Ploughmans lunch and I think if a regular Ploughman would see it, he would have run out the door, cursing, screaming or sobbing, depending on his philosphical state of mind.   So we will not even dare to go for the paid dishes.  But they have beer on draft, and also Cunard now has its own beers, a pilsener, a ruby amber and a stout. (= a sort of Guiness but not as dense) They offer this also as a Flight of Beer, with 3 small glasses, and charge the price of 1 pint $ 7.50  which is reasonable.  I prefer a Guiness over the Cunard Stout but the Red Amber pale ale is very nice.

A full Queens Lounge for the afternoon recital. Please note the banners hanging from the ceiling in black and white, denoting the colour theme for this formal night.

Then it was time to move from English Culture to the music world and listen to a piano recital in the Queens Lounge.  On the keyboard Maestro Robin Collvill. he advised that he had been around for a while (playing piano for about 70 years) and still learning. We listened to a series of pieces varying from Grieg, to South American Tango and back to French impressionists. Very, very good and soothing to listen to, as could be seen from a number of the grey haired crowd who where revisiting former concerts……………..

Today is the first formal night, called Black and White. The 2nd one is formal- any colour goes and the 3rd one is Red and Gold. Also Cunard, while trying to keep up tradition, is finding it harder to keep the dress code going. Hence we received a special letter from the Captain, asking the guests to conform with the dress code or restrict themselves to the non dress code area’s. ( deck 9 with Lido and Wintergarden, deck 2 with the Golden Lion and the show lounge)  We love dressing up and have brought a different formal outfit for each formal night.  But this being Cunard and a mainly British crowd, (the germans are coming for christmas and new year, but they also dress up) 90% was dressed to the hilt. Even the Golden Lion crowd was predominantly in a Whistle-and-Flute….

Cunard christmas decorations are very nice and in the sb. forward corner of the Queens lounge they have setup a small christmas village.

While the wobbly weather continues during the evening, it will lessen tomorrow morning when we are past Cape Finistere on the North West corner of the Iberian Peninsula, the Commodore Club (Crows Nest on Holland America and Observation Lounge on many other companies) was half empty so we had ample seats to choose from, to listen to the Lady Piano player. And yes, all guests were dressed according to the Captains request.

Then after our usual good dinner in the Queens Grill, we went to the show lounge to see a performance from Aled Jones, This guy used to be a very famous choir boy singer (with 11 Cd’s) and managed after his voice broke to transform into a good classical singer (now up to 42 CD’s). I do not know famous he is in the USA, but he is in the UK, presents classical programs on the Radio and this winter he is also in the musical ELF in London. His show was very good and kept us well entertained. He is transfering in Lisbon to the Queen Anne, so he is keeping his fingers crossed that the Captain’s plan of “running away from the bad weather” is working out. I get the impression that most of the guests on board are repeat guests so with them the need to see Lisbon once again is not so much of an urge.

We will have another wobbly night and by tomorrow the wind is supposed the go down from 50 knots to about 35 knots and the swells should settle as well. At the moment we have two wave systems interferring with each other, which on occasion, causes the ship “to lurch” as stabelizers can only deal with the sideways motion (and are doing that very well)  The Captain will keep the pedal to the metal as much as possible to get into Lisbon before the wave system comes too far down and makes sailing into the Tagus River impossible.

 

Older posts