It is wonderful and fascinating sailing here in Antarctica. I spent long hours on the bridge but it was all very worthwhile and there was never a dull moment. Due to the long day light periods we did constant scenic cruising and as a result we could cover a lot of territory. Some of our guests were making the same amount of hours as I did. Sitting in the crows nest from sun rise until sun set and loathing it to go for lunch or dinner as somebody else would pinch their seat. The temperature has been near freezing all the time with the occasionally wind making it even colder. The seawater temperature has been on average 1 to 2 degrees below zero (Celsius) but the surface does not freeze over because of the salinity of the water. Yesterday I did not have the time to sit down for my daily 30 minutes to write my blog as we had quite an adventure which you will read about at the end of this blog. Today (18th.); I am taking it easy, as I made too many hours in the last few days and thus time for an expanded blog with a bit more about the 16th.
Our 2nd day was spent visiting penguin colonies, looking at a research station (from the ship, as we are too big to get landing permits) and going to Deception Island for viewing a Volcano. Our first stop was Paradise Bay. Named like that for several reasons but I like the one that it was a refuge for ships in despair (from the bad weather) that could sail in its lee and make repairs or do some R&R. There are two Research stations in the bay, an Argentinean one and opposite the bay, a Chilean one. The later seems to enjoy talking to ships and called us for all sort of statistical information. Including the name of the ships captain; which always causes issues; as my name seems to be too long for their forms?
The Argentinian Research Station in Paradise Bay.
Traffic in Antarctic waters is tightly scheduled by the tour operators themselves under the IAATO membership and thus we try to avoid having two ships in the same area. However this time we came across one of the Russian Expedition ships. In the past only used for scientific voyages but now they also make money by offering cruises. As they are smaller, normally only taking about a 100 guests, they have landing rights and the guests can visit the various stations and walk up to the glaciers and rookeries. The stations from their side have played in on this as well, by selling stamps, T shirts and all sorts of other trinkets.
One of the Russian Exploration Ships in the area. This ship is similar to the Akademik Ioffe mentioned furtheron in the blog.
Next stop was Cuverville Island, named after a French admiral and this has a large penguin rookery. Penguins can be found everywhere but this is a place where we can come very close with the ship without running aground. Thus I parked the ship about 600 feet offshore and everybody could have a very good look. While we were there, we had some humpback whales playing around the ship and I had to let the Prinsendam drift freely without maneuvering until these majestic creatures moved away. That took awhile as one of them took a liking to the ships bulb and started to rub against it.
The whale that really liked my ship. This picture was taken by Chief Officer Ane Smit, straight down from the bridge wing. All the guests had a really good view.
From there we sailed to Deception Island, through Gerlache Strait and Croker passage, seeing a lot of wildlife and floating ice along the way. Coming closer to Deception it started to fog in, so I thought that we had had it for the day. However upon coming close, the fog lifted just enough to let us peak into the crater area with more penguins hugging the shore sides. Some very small ships go inside the bay but it is not recommended. The entrance is very narrowl and guarded by “Neptune’s bellows” which are very nasty rocks. One of the cruise ships not so long ago hit these rocks and had to limp back to civilization for repairs. So I stayed a mile off, made a spin off the entrance and headed slowly east through Bransfield Strait towards Antarctic sound for our 3rd day of cruising.
Penguins floating by on an iceberg. Seems to be a usual way of transport in Antarctica. Photo by Chief Officer Ane Smit.
During the night the cruise ships move into open water, to be away from the ice. The smaller ones, can anchor somewhere out of harms way. As you never know where an iceberg will float to. So last night we went back into the North Atlantic Ocean and re-entered at 5 am and this evening we spent slowly moving East towards our next destination. I had to spend most of the night on the bridge, relieved for a few hours by the Chief Officer as we came upon Ice berg after ice berg and they were not small. However they do show up on the radar and are then easily avoided. The problem is that they calve while floating along on the current and that calving produces growlers. Nasty pieces of thick ice that just floats along the surface. If you hit those with a little bit of speed, you either get a big dent or a nasty hole. The Prinsendam has an ice strengthened bow but that does not mean that the ship can crash into the ice. We can just PUSH a bit more ice away, when going slow, than other ships can do.
By 05.30 in the morning of the 17th.; we arrived at the entrance of the Antarctic sound and found the whole area clogged with growlers. Not wise to go through.
Thus no Iceberg alley and no more research stations to look at. Time to go to plan B, sailing across Bransfield Strait and go to Admiralty bay on King George Island. So we started going across, happily dodging growlers and with lots of icebergs in the vicinity. By 8 am we ran into pack ice. This really surprised the ice pilot as pack ice is normally not to be found in this area. I had a close look to see if we could wriggle our way through but then we saw stacked flat ice and that ice you do not want to have touching the hull. Stacked flat ice is basically layered sheets of ice (a bit like the way lasagna looks) but it has razor sharp edges and can easily tear open a steel hull. So I turned around in the ice and looked for a way out. According to the theory of our ice pilot it would be best to go east and go around it and thus we commenced with Plan C. By noon time we ran into the ice again. A solid wall of thick flat ice all around us. Twelve miles to the north we saw the Akademik Ioffe, a Russian expedition/cruise ship that was trying to get in, in the same way as we were trying to get out.
The rim of the pack ice. Really nasty stuff if you get caught in it.
Thus we decided to both sail west along the rim of the ice, to see if we could find a safe passage. The start of Plan D. We came as close together as one mile apart and for a moment we thought we had found a way through. But again we saw stacked flat ice. So the Russian captain decided to turn around and the Dutch captain was off the same mind. Then both ships continued along the edge of the pack ice but it only got wider and wider. In the end it took me until 3 pm. before I saw the west rim of the pack ice and could turn the ship north. From then on we only had large ice bergs. Some of them real whoppers, especially the very last one that we passed by 19.30 in the evening. It had a measurement of 5000 by 800 (width) and a height of over 300 feet and that was only the above water part. The other 90% was below.
Our last iceberg of the Prinsendam Antarctic adventure and the biggest one as well. Sitting aground (in 800 feet deep water) of the Eastern shore of King George Island.
So we never made it to plan A, but in the end Plan D was much better. So many icebergs, so many penguins and so much other wildlife that we would never seen if Plan A would have gone through. And whoever sees’s a captain doing ice navigation, other than on an ice breaker? For me this was an intense period but really good fun. Cruising the way it should be. As there is no vessel traffic information service, or shore stations advising what is going on, the ships have to help each other. We were the first one to encounter this pack ice and the little chart was duly passed on to the Celebrity Infinity that is going in tomorrow.
Chart print out by Navigation Officer Jeroen de Winter.
We have a sea day before we reach the Falklands. I am already keeping a close eye on the weather forecast. In Antarctica it was impossible to predict the weather, for the Falklands we only can estimate what might happen.
(All other photos by special reporter Lesley S.)
February 18, 2010 at 10:00 pm
WOW!!!
February 18, 2010 at 11:06 pm
Welcome back, Captain! We missed you those couple of days and did wonder what was going on. What a beautiful description. It makes us want to join you on this one next year and hope for Plan D!
February 19, 2010 at 1:45 am
VERY interesting reading Captain! I hope you get an “Ice” pay bonus on top of your usual salary….you deserve it!
Tell your wife she’s taking some beautiful pictures….thanks for sharing them!
February 19, 2010 at 12:01 pm
Wonderful adventure. I knew you were working long hours. I have never seen such beautiful photographs as those from you and some of your passengers. Quite remarkable!
Good Luck with the Falklands. Many Thanks
February 20, 2010 at 2:32 am
Wonderful descriptions and suspense. Thank you so much for taking the time to write. Really enjoying it.
February 20, 2010 at 2:36 am
Yes, that is some exciting cruising. You leave us breathless.
February 20, 2010 at 2:43 pm
As current passengers on this wonderful adventure, and an adventure it was/is, my husband and I are almost overwhelmed by the beauty of what you showed us. And we certainly are most appreciative of your masterful ice-piloting these past days!!! Only you up there know in what precarious a position we were and we your passengers were given the chance of a lifetime to see what we never thought to be able to see (and experience). Enclosed 2 of my MANY pictures (no I am not in competition with your wife’s excellent photography !!!) /Users/almuthewing/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Originals/2010/Feb 16, 2010/L1040115.JPG /Users/almuthewing/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Originals/2010/Feb 16, 2010/L1040112.JPG
Almuth
February 20, 2010 at 2:43 pm
As current passengers on this wonderful adventure, and an adventure it was/is, my husband and I are almost overwhelmed by the beauty of what you showed us. And we certainly are most appreciative of your masterful ice-piloting these past days!!! Only you up there know in what precarious a position we were and we your passengers were given the chance of a lifetime to see what we never thought to be able to see (and experience). Enclosed 2 of my MANY pictures (no I am not in competition with your wife’s excellent photography !!!) /Users/almuthewing/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Originals/2010/Feb 16, 2010/L1040115.JPG /Users/almuthewing/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Originals/2010/Feb 16, 2010/L1040112.JPG
Almuth
February 20, 2010 at 2:43 pm
As current passengers on this wonderful adventure, and an adventure it was/is, my husband and I are almost overwhelmed by the beauty of what you showed us. And we certainly are most appreciative of your masterful ice-piloting these past days!!! Only you up there know in what precarious a position we were and we your passengers were given the chance of a lifetime to see what we never thought to be able to see (and experience). Enclosed 2 of my MANY pictures (no I am not in competition with your wife’s excellent photography !!!) /Users/almuthewing/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Originals/2010/Feb 16, 2010/L1040115.JPG /Users/almuthewing/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Originals/2010/Feb 16, 2010/L1040112.JPG
Almuth
February 20, 2010 at 2:43 pm
As current passengers on this wonderful adventure, and an adventure it was/is, my husband and I are almost overwhelmed by the beauty of what you showed us. And we certainly are most appreciative of your masterful ice-piloting these past days!!! Only you up there know in what precarious a position we were and we your passengers were given the chance of a lifetime to see what we never thought to be able to see (and experience). Enclosed 2 of my MANY pictures (no I am not in competition with your wife’s excellent photography !!!) /Users/almuthewing/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Originals/2010/Feb 16, 2010/L1040115.JPG /Users/almuthewing/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Originals/2010/Feb 16, 2010/L1040112.JPG
Almuth
February 20, 2010 at 2:43 pm
As current passengers on this wonderful adventure, and an adventure it was/is, my husband and I are almost overwhelmed by the beauty of what you showed us. And we certainly are most appreciative of your masterful ice-piloting these past days!!! Only you up there know in what precarious a position we were and we your passengers were given the chance of a lifetime to see what we never thought to be able to see (and experience). Enclosed 2 of my MANY pictures (no I am not in competition with your wife’s excellent photography !!!) /Users/almuthewing/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Originals/2010/Feb 16, 2010/L1040115.JPG /Users/almuthewing/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Originals/2010/Feb 16, 2010/L1040112.JPG
Almuth
February 20, 2010 at 2:43 pm
As current passengers on this wonderful adventure, and an adventure it was/is, my husband and I are almost overwhelmed by the beauty of what you showed us. And we certainly are most appreciative of your masterful ice-piloting these past days!!! Only you up there know in what precarious a position we were and we your passengers were given the chance of a lifetime to see what we never thought to be able to see (and experience). Enclosed 2 of my MANY pictures (no I am not in competition with your wife’s excellent photography !!!) /Users/almuthewing/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Originals/2010/Feb 16, 2010/L1040115.JPG /Users/almuthewing/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Originals/2010/Feb 16, 2010/L1040112.JPG
Almuth
February 20, 2010 at 2:43 pm
As current passengers on this wonderful adventure, and an adventure it was/is, my husband and I are almost overwhelmed by the beauty of what you showed us. And we certainly are most appreciative of your masterful ice-piloting these past days!!! Only you up there know in what precarious a position we were and we your passengers were given the chance of a lifetime to see what we never thought to be able to see (and experience). Enclosed 2 of my MANY pictures (no I am not in competition with your wife’s excellent photography !!!) /Users/almuthewing/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Originals/2010/Feb 16, 2010/L1040115.JPG /Users/almuthewing/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Originals/2010/Feb 16, 2010/L1040112.JPG
Almuth
February 20, 2010 at 2:43 pm
As current passengers on this wonderful adventure, and an adventure it was/is, my husband and I are almost overwhelmed by the beauty of what you showed us. And we certainly are most appreciative of your masterful ice-piloting these past days!!! Only you up there know in what precarious a position we were and we your passengers were given the chance of a lifetime to see what we never thought to be able to see (and experience). Enclosed 2 of my MANY pictures (no I am not in competition with your wife’s excellent photography !!!) /Users/almuthewing/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Originals/2010/Feb 16, 2010/L1040115.JPG /Users/almuthewing/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Originals/2010/Feb 16, 2010/L1040112.JPG
Almuth
February 20, 2010 at 2:43 pm
As current passengers on this wonderful adventure, and an adventure it was/is, my husband and I are almost overwhelmed by the beauty of what you showed us. And we certainly are most appreciative of your masterful ice-piloting these past days!!! Only you up there know in what precarious a position we were and we your passengers were given the chance of a lifetime to see what we never thought to be able to see (and experience). Enclosed 2 of my MANY pictures (no I am not in competition with your wife’s excellent photography !!!) /Users/almuthewing/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Originals/2010/Feb 16, 2010/L1040115.JPG /Users/almuthewing/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Originals/2010/Feb 16, 2010/L1040112.JPG
Almuth
February 20, 2010 at 2:43 pm
As current passengers on this wonderful adventure, and an adventure it was/is, my husband and I are almost overwhelmed by the beauty of what you showed us. And we certainly are most appreciative of your masterful ice-piloting these past days!!! Only you up there know in what precarious a position we were and we your passengers were given the chance of a lifetime to see what we never thought to be able to see (and experience). Enclosed 2 of my MANY pictures (no I am not in competition with your wife’s excellent photography !!!) /Users/almuthewing/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Originals/2010/Feb 16, 2010/L1040115.JPG /Users/almuthewing/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Originals/2010/Feb 16, 2010/L1040112.JPG
Almuth
February 20, 2010 at 2:43 pm
As current passengers on this wonderful adventure, and an adventure it was/is, my husband and I are almost overwhelmed by the beauty of what you showed us. And we certainly are most appreciative of your masterful ice-piloting these past days!!! Only you up there know in what precarious a position we were and we your passengers were given the chance of a lifetime to see what we never thought to be able to see (and experience). Enclosed 2 of my MANY pictures (no I am not in competition with your wife’s excellent photography !!!) /Users/almuthewing/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Originals/2010/Feb 16, 2010/L1040115.JPG /Users/almuthewing/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Originals/2010/Feb 16, 2010/L1040112.JPG
Almuth
February 20, 2010 at 2:43 pm
As current passengers on this wonderful adventure, and an adventure it was/is, my husband and I are almost overwhelmed by the beauty of what you showed us. And we certainly are most appreciative of your masterful ice-piloting these past days!!! Only you up there know in what precarious a position we were and we your passengers were given the chance of a lifetime to see what we never thought to be able to see (and experience). Enclosed 2 of my MANY pictures (no I am not in competition with your wife’s excellent photography !!!) /Users/almuthewing/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Originals/2010/Feb 16, 2010/L1040115.JPG /Users/almuthewing/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Originals/2010/Feb 16, 2010/L1040112.JPG
Almuth
February 20, 2010 at 7:30 pm
That was one big nasty encounter, Captain! I’m sure happy this field of pack ice had not closed in on you … I have pictures of cargo ships completely stuck in it, even slightly tilted by the pressure/movement of these fields. Our ‘usual way’ of transport was accommodated by double-hulled, powerful bulldozers at sea which were not at your disposal down under! Captain, why is it that travel near the Antarctic seems to be more daunting than near the Arctic? (is this right?)
February 21, 2010 at 3:40 pm
Good morning,
The arctic ice, especially near the rim, tends to stack less high and has no icebergs. It is basically open sea frozen over.
In the south you get this mixture of sea ice, interspersed with growlers and small ice bergs that ca make it a lot more dangerous to sail through it and hit it. Plus the storms are much more irrational/un-predictable then in the north
February 22, 2010 at 8:14 pm
Thank you very much, Captain
February 23, 2010 at 6:22 pm
What an experience! We wish we had been there!