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Ocean Liner History and Stories from the Sea, Past and Present. With an In Depth focus on Holland America Line

Category: Captain’s Log (page 2 of 127)

Day 03; 17 April 2026, Pauillac France, 2nd day.

So what does one do when one is in a port like Pauillac for a 2nd day. We have been extensively to Bordeaux when we were there with the Prinsendam and also docked overnight. We looked at the wine options for today but as we both like white German and Austrian Wine (Veltliner is a firm favourite) and Bordeaux is a red wine area that was not a great idea. Pauillac is not very exciting for the rest as we found out during the first day so we decided to stay on board. A lot of guests had decided to do the same, so the bars and public rooms were buzzing. During lunch (you are asked if, when coming in, you want to have a shared table during lunch as only part of the diningroom is used) and that is most of the time very nice as most British are very chatty and love a good natter, especially when combined with free wine. The people at the table had been on a wine tour and were quite disappointed. Cheap wine was served as samplers and they were then being  tempted to buy a bottle of Chateau Margaux for 500+ euro’s while the same bottle had been seen for 51,– british pounds at Waitrose. (This is an english supermarket chain which is a bit upmarket, providing better service  and also better quality brands).

Our lunch menu for the day. It does not show the free wines, but normally there is a chardonnay, a sauvignon blanc and a red merlot. Then heineken draft beer and a regular sodas, all included.

I do not know if the Lady did not mix up a Grand Cru with an standard “Appelation Controle”, but she considered herself an expert so we had to believe her. Staying on board is easy as a. there are plenty of seats in the public rooms, b. we have a nice suite on deck 7, which Holland America calls Neptune Suites. Fred Olsen kept them the same apart from not having the Neptune Lounge for nibbles. But we get canape’s at 17.00 hrs. every day so with a drink it nicely covers the period until the music (for 2nd sitting) starts in the main lounges.

This is the Library of what was called the Exploration Center with HAL. Now it is dedicated to Sir Richard Attenborough with a large number of nature books to support it. As the Coffee counter is just around the corner, all tables are numbered so you can wait for the drinks while they are being made. There were a lot less tables here during HAL days.s the Library of what was called the Exploration Center with HAL. 

During the morning there was suddenly another General Drill and we wondered why. Was the captain not happy with the drill yesterday, so decided with a repeat or what else ??. Then during the course of the multiple announcements made, we realized that they had Port State Control to verify the ships documents and Solas compliance. A ship normally gets new ships papers each year, issued by Lloyd Register or another approved company (like Rina in Italy or Germanischer Lloyd in Germany). This is normally done after a full ship inspection and drill. The certificates issued are then accepted by the Flag State (in this case the Bahamas for the Borealis) as valid for their adminstration to issue the sailing certificates.

Then there is the Paris MOU (Memorandum of Understanding) who monitors on behalf of the connected countries, the standards on the ships with ad-hoc inspections, normally every six months. The results are listed on the website and if there are deficiencies found by port state officers in Spain then they can be verified by port state officers in Greece. etc.etc. Most of the world is connected to this, except the USA where the USCG does their own thing. Hence when a ship comes to a USA port for the first time it has to go through a full inspection, regardless whether the ship had one a week earlier in a European port. But such is politics.

The Coffee bar. Unchanged from HAL days. But the chocolates and cookies on display are not freebies any more, all is for sale.

So The Borealis had Port State today and they had to go through the full sequence with Fire drill, assembly drill and the boat lowering routine. Then the Port State Officials moved on to checking other vital safety systems, causing the lifts to go out of service for more than 45 minutes, while they were connected to the Emergency Generator. This gets normally done each week and although an announcement is made that the lifts might be out of order, it is normally not the case, as the Emergency Generator can provide enough power to handle all the lifts. Today something must have happened as 45 minutes of no lifts at all is rather unusual. But we sailed on time, so things must have been corrected.

Appetizers for in the cabin. And what is nice that it comes with a explanation so that mere mortals, like us, who are not that posh, also know what we are enjoing.

Let’s correct this, we sailed almost on time. With the departure time being set at 18.45 hrs. and with the ship pulling out at 19.15 hrs. As usual, the delay was caused by late returning tours and we saw several coaches coming from Bordeaux racing towards the ship. We watched it all with great interest from the Crowsnest, called Observatory here, with a nice cocktail in our hand and the String Trio performing in the background. Sailing down the river Gironne is very interesting even if it is only a short distance to sea from Pauillac. Going more towards Bordeaux the river is much smaller but from Pauillac the river hugs the west bank and one is still quite close to land. The Fred Olsen cruise schedule gives arrival in the early morning and depature in the early evening, with no set times. So officially nobody knows when we get there and how long we stay. Although there is guidance from the office of when the ship should get there, to ensure the scheduling of the tours, it gives the captain a fair bit of leeway to decide when he/she will exactly arrive or depart. As we only have 10 knots to speed to make to get to our next port of La Pallice, I think the Captain set departure for just before 1900 hrs. to take advantage of the river situation.

At 19.00 hrs., the river experienced the last of the flood and there was a wind blowing from the sea. So with bringing the stern off the dock, the flood could get inbetween the ship and the dock and helped the ship come easily off the dock. Using the last of the flood and not the full flood meant that the ship was not drifting too far upriver, while swinging around, and not coming to close to the sandbanks. Also 1900 hrs. gave us an hour of sunlight to enjoy the scenery. And thus we saw undulating french country rolling by, with many sites full of vine yards, interspersed with small villages and the occasional church and chateau tower. It took about 1 hr. to get to open sea and from there the ship turned north to La Pallice.

The information we have received from the ship for that port is somewhat vague, which I think has to do with the fact that nobody speaks French, and thus does not pick up the nuances of what is really meant. There is a shuttle from the ship to the port gate. We think is not a ship shuttle but a port shuttle laid on for security reasons as the port of La Pallice is very large. What happens when one get to the Port Gate is everybodies guess but according to the ship taxi’s and a local bus are available. Problem is, it is saturday and then things in France do not always go as announced. Based on having previous experience with French Industrial ports, we booked a n afternoon Transfer from the ship to La Rochelle for 29 pounds each. At least we will get there and we will make it back.

This evenings entertainment Crooner Ben Francis. He is already world famous on the Fred Olsen ships as he has been on the ships before. The rest of the world might be waiting as he had a very pleasant voice. He will be back on the final night of the cruise.

Dinner was a much quieter affair then yesterday as many guests had opted to go to the Lido or did not make it at all due to all the wine tasting. Show time had an un-expected change. We were supposed to have a Lady playing a violin bringing us “music fusion”. However she was stuck somewhere and could not get to the ship. So at last minute a singer was flown in from Chile ( he was on another ship) via England to do the fill in. Not that it mattered as he had a very nice show. His main claim to fame sofar was that he has worked with Michael Ball and Adele in the background choirs.

Tommorrow we are in La Pallice and taking the Transfer to La Rochelle in the afternoon. Weather is supposed to be same as today, temperature around 20oC / 70oF, mostly overcast with a gentle breeze.

 

Day 02; Pauillac for Bordeaux, France.

At 07.00 we arrived at Pauillac. The Captain had explained last night that he had never been here but that did not really matter as it was thick fog so he could not see anything anyway. The town is located in the estuary of the river Gironde and the river is still very wide and deep here. So nearly any sort of ship can dock as the length of the berth is 300 meters plus. I came by here the last time in 2010 with the ms Prinsendam but we went up the river all the way to Bordeaux. The Prinsendam could do this as her funnel was lower than the clearance height of the bridge just outside Bordeaux and the length of the ship was just short enough to swing around in the river at high tide. According to the french pilot it “izzzze not possible to zwing on ze low tide az-ze the zhippe will go bumpe”. He spoke english with a distinct french pronounciation. Luckily here at the much wider part of the river, the chance of going “bumpe” is a lot less and thus the good ship Borealis docked without any hiccups.

A left over from the Holland America Line days. Terracotta soldiers. I have no idea why Fred Olsen kept them, but it still looks nice.

We are docked about a 1 mile down river from the town of Pauillac at a rather new berth, so I assume it was put in by the authorities to entice large cruise ships to visit, and then for the guests to go by coach to Bordeaux. There is a smaller dock, more of a breakwater to protect the local marine just outside the town, and that was used by river boats today. We saw their guests lateron marching accross to the road to go and visit a local winery.

A change from HAL days. The whole Explorer Lounge was changed directly after take over, into a chinese tea room and Garden Room. See here the garden side. As nearly all British are wild about gardening , this works very well on this ship even if not expected on a cruise ship. In the morning this place is really full and many guests are examining the gardening books laid out on the large center table.

And that is what Pauillac is all about. Wine, wine, wine. The town itself has over 20 wineries and estates and the local Office du Tourism, is nearly completely dedicated to selling wine and accessories such as bottle openers, which are available in a dizzying variation of designs. Due to the mile travel distance Fred Olsen had laid on a 15 minute shuttle service; first stopping at the train station for those who wainted to take the train to Bordeaux and then at the Tourist office for those who wanted to inspect downtown. With taking the train came the advise,  that as it was a branch line, the service was not very frequent and ” sometimes did not go at all”. Luckily in this case not a big problem as we are here for 2 days so everybody can make it back even when delayed by a train “that did not go. The shuttle service also ran through the night, albeit with a lower frequency but I think not many will have gone ashore during the night as the nightlife here in Pauillac only seems to consist of a Pizzaria staying open past midnight.

The Boulevard of Pauillac following the rivers shore line. As one can see it is not the most exciting place and the road is a main district road which can be very busy. But the place is all about wine and not about regular shopping or night life.

We decided to go ashore around 11.00 once the rush at the shuttlebus was over. The ship was conducting a General drill and we were treated to announcements over the General P.A system. This is understandable for drills but the ship does it for nearly everything. Arrival announcements in the cabin, Cruise directors updates in the cabin, gangway movements due to the tides etc. Luckily this captain is not big on announcements but Fred Olsen has another Norwegian captain who likes making announcements and standard comes into the cabin just before departure. If that is in mid afternoon he upsets those having an afternoon nap. Not for a short announcement but with reading out half of the Berlitz Guide write up for the next port. And that all with a grating Norwegian “Hu-de-Buh” accent. It can really spoil your afternoon nap. Announcements can be made, like it was done during Holland America Line times, over the tv on the “View from the Bridge” channel, but this is not used here and everything comes into the cabin. Maybe appreciated by all the hearing aid owners on board but not by me, I like my piece and quiet when in the cabin. Well that was my rant for the day.

Another shot of the boulevard of Pauillac. How a British telephone box ended up here, I do not know but there was no telephone inside. Maybe once in the past it had a direct line to the UK, especially for British home sick tourists. Who will ever know how it came to end up so far into the French Country side.

Company’s are nowadays required to make regular announcements to keep the guests informed and knowing the ship intimatelly, I could follow the proceedings quite well. Fire on B deck with the assembly of the teams outside the Engine Room meant that the fire was in the cold room/ store room area as the assembly station always has to be 2 vertical sections (e.g. 2 firescreen doors sections) away from the fire. The area of the fire is called the HOT zone, the first area away, the WORK zone (only people in breathing apparatus allowed) and the 3rd zone is called the SAFE zone, where everybody is allowed to assemble and support the teams who are going to tackle the fire.

The shuttle service was extremely well organised with English speaking traffic controllers at both ends of the route and the shuttle service ran on its 15 minute cycle, even during French Lunch time when it is not uncommon for a shuttle service to be completely shut down for an hour. By the time we arrived at the Tourist office and the end of the downtown boulevard, most of the town had gone for lunch so shops and all related were closed. The cafe’s on the boulevard were all open and were doing a roaring trade with about 50% French and the rest English and American customers. Unfortunately the mussles are not in season yet (July to January) otherwise we would have gladly joined in. You can of course find restaurants who serve mussles (frozen) all year around but this is sort of frowned upon by many french restaurants.

This is the main historic highlight of the town, the church of Saint Martin, rebuilt in 1826. They charge 5,– Euro admission but unless you are really into churches, not the most exciting place to visit.

So we walked the front streets and the back streets and did not see a single (french) soul. The church of Saint-Martin is a bit of a strange happening as it was a rebuild of a previous church. This one was razed down when it became too small and then by using materials from another church down the road, a new church was cobbled together in mid 19th. century Greek Style. It resulted in a very austere design and definatelly did not have the “wow factor”. But because of living in England we are spoiled anyway as even the local church in our local back garden is from the 12th. century with all the stories to tell that come with it’s history. Then her ladyship wished to inspect the local supermarket to see if the prices were similar to those in England. They were. Petrol prices were higher than in the UK but that had mainly to do with the amount of tax levied on the basic petrol price by the French Government. For the rest the prices were much higher than recently, courtesy of Ball-room Johnny and his activities in the Middle East.

I could not resist this photo. It seems that the local authorities are really concerned that somebody would steal heir bottle bank, so they put a fence in front of it. But it was still used.

By 14.30 hrs. we were back on board and decided to test the pizza’s in the Fresco restaurant. That was a resounding success with the caveat that the free wine and beer for lunch does not extend to outside eateries on board. So I have to find out how it works for the small restaurant at the hamburger bar starboard forward of the Inside pool as it is inside.  Somehow it does not make sense but we do not really care whether it is free or not. How much free “chateau plonk” and Heineken beer can you drink anyway ??.

The outdoor “All Fresco” sitting area for the Pizza place. I like the layout much better than with Holland America as it looked a lot less gloomy.

Then it was time to upload the blog and to get ready for cocktails at 19,00 hrs. For tonight we selected the Piano Bar on deck 5 with the Resident Piano Man Paul Burton. He has been with Fred Olsen for a very long time and a firm favourite of the guests. Or as he says himself, I am very popular with guests, waiting / killing time, before going to dinner. He prefers to play music, at least in the early evening, of composers long dead, and also tells then something of the background of these old songs. So this evening he dissected two songs from the movie Casablanca (Humphry Bogart and Ingrid Bergman) and I found out that the music in this movie was on average much older than the movie itself. It was just repackaged for that movie. One is never too old to learn something new. So he promised to continue to reveal  more of this useless and irrelevant information during the course of this cruise.

Dinner options for the Lido buffet evening meal. It is a buffet line, but not much self service as the cooks are handling the plates and also the tongs for rolls etc. It all helps to prevent Noro-virus from spreading.

Dinner was of the regular good standard and as expected it was a much less hectic affair tonight. Guests where not marching in en-masse when the doors opened and I think quite a few went ” for casual” to the Lido restaurant, called “The View” here on the Borealis. Dress code was casual today and indeed a lot of T-shirts were observed but many gentlemen, including Yours Truly, still opted to wear a jacket or a more stylish tropical shirt.

The show tonight were the 4 singers, mentioned before. We are now all confused as the ship gave the impression that they had just boarded but tonight we found out that they had been at sea already for nearly 6 months. What is nice with Fred Olsen is, is that the company does not enforce standarization that much so all the ships are equal in entertainment quality with the program strictly controlled by a manager in the office. Hence the 4 singers could sing tonight their own favourites and as we have learned through the years, if you let them sing their own favourites, songs that work the best for their type of voice, then you always get a very good show. Tonight was no different.

Tomorrow is our 2nd day in Pauillac with more tours to Bordeaux and the surrounding country side. Most tours are half day but there are 2 tours of 7 and 8 hours long, giving more time in Bordeaux. Temperatures are expected to go up a bit, sunny with a maximum of 23oC / 74oF here on the river; so Bordeaux. more inland, will be a few degrees higher.

Day 1: At Sea, 15 April 2026.

Today we have a sea day, while sailing from Southampton to Pauillac which is a small wine village on the west shore of the river Gironde, at the edge of the Medoc, a French wine region in the Bordeaux area. There is a weather front coming over and that gave us this morning gale force winds of up to 35-45 knots and combined wind and swell of about 3 meters. Which is high enough to make the ms Borealis move about somewhat. (The S and R class are not affected by any sea movement up to 2 meters but when it goes higher the ships get slowly affected). We were slightly affected this morning and the ship had put out the sea sickness bags in the staircases. Weather improved rapidly after lunch time with the depression moving away and the sun came out and visibility got better very quickly.

The Fred Olsen Fleet. BS = Borealis, BT = Bolette,  BL = Balmoral

While sailing south we are hugging the french shore line  around the coast of Normandy and Britanny and although following the shipping lanes (a sort of highways at seas) we were close enough to the french shore to be able to use our mobile phone with land coverage. If you are not careful, the moment the ship is more than 3 Nautical Miles from shore, it goes to Martime Coverage and that can be quite costly. So it is important that have you phone on airplane mode when not seeing any coastline around you while at sea, even when you have global roaming.  We did not see much of the French coast but that was mainly due to the Frontal Weather system which brought rain with it as well.

Cruise schedule for 8 days. Soutahmpton – Pauillac, La Pallice, St. Malo, Cherbourg, Southampton.

This cruise we are going to Pauillac where we stay from 07.00 hrs in the morning to 18.45 hrs the next evening, giving the guests an ample chance to take one of the wine tours. Then it is a short hop to La Pallice (For La Rochelle) were we are from 07.00 to 20.00 hrs. Then we have a sea day, followed by a full day call at Saint Malo. That is a tender port with the ship anchoring in the estuary. The next day is a full day call at Cherbourg and from there is goes back to Southampton. We have now observed that the ship is not completely full and that might be the  reason that we have new joining cast and singers on board with support staff; and a whole technical team for renewing the lighting in the show lounge. I estimate that about 50 cabins have been handed over for that operation. Most of the entertainers have taken the chance to have their nearest family on board, who are present in full force wherever these new singers are performing. Fred Olsen seems to have taken on a new Entertainment Company, to train these people but we have not found out yet what that exactly entails.

The “Fresco” on the aft Navigation deck with the pizza place.

So what has Fred Olsen done with the ship during the most recent upgrade? They have finally (re) opened the pizza place which HAL had on the aft navigation deck. Insiders might remember that HAL had the brain wave to remove the aft -outdoor- pool on both the Rotterdam and the Veendam so it could add more cabins. The pool area was then reduced to a wading pool. This no doubt increased revenue for the ship but the operational results where not that great. The wading pool never worked as most of the guests were not able to “step/climb” over the rim of the pool and there was nowhere to store your personal stuff, so when sitting on a stretcher in the wading pool, guests blocked a second sunlounger away from the pool for their towels and bags. Then common sense prevailed and none of the other ships underwent this treatment. But the remodeling did give the chance to make a bigger outside serving bar on the starboard side and to install a pizza kitchen / outlet on the portside. When the ship was handed over to Fred Olsen in 2020, the status of the pizza ovens was considered to be in a too bad a condition to re-open when sailing started again in 2022. So the place stayed closed until further notice. In the last dry dock in Autumn 2025, the area was completely renewed and is now in full swing again. Holland America prepared full size pizza’s there (handed out in a pizza box) but here it is slice only, but freshly made and of excellent quality. For the rest they also do other small bites such as cheese and ham croissants etc.etc.

The next thing is that they have remodeled is the library by removing the easy chairs and putting more regular tables and chairs in so there is more seating for the Cafe. The Barista counter of HAL is still there, but Fred has gone one step further and have changed it into a complete cafe same as on their other ships. You can still sit there and read a book but instead of reclining (and falling asleep) you sit now straight up to read your book or magazine.

The Crowsnest / Observatory which under HAL had declined to an “indepth” shore excurions study place, which never really worked that well as all the machinery broke down very rapidly, has now been fully restored to a day and evening lounge. The bandstand is back and all evening there is entertainment. Hurrah.

I believe on other HAL ships where the crowsnest was also converted to an EXC indepth shored and port immersion area, this is also rolled back somewhat to what the Crowsnest used to be, with a new dedicated library on one of the lower decks.

Here on board, the repeat guests are a bit confused by all the happenings going on. With the showlounge been refitted during day time, the lectures are now in the Auditorium (ex Cinema/ kitchen) but as this place can only take 299 guests, they have to repeat the lecture in the afternoon. That is not always appreciated as a lot of guests want to take a nap in the afternoon. The average age of our guests is the same as with HAL and then you need to re-charge your batteries for to be ready for the hard work of eating again  in the evening. As nearly all the guests are British it means that nearly everybody wants to be out and about for cocktails in the evening, both for 1st and 2nd. sitting. So they need some downtime. The music venue times are adapted to this, with the entertainers taking a break while first sitting goes to dinner (18.00 hrs) and 2nd sitting is still trying to fit in their cruise clothes from last time. Then 2nd sitting cocktails start at 1900 hrs., dinner at 20.00 hrs.and the show at 22.00 hrs. Then between 23.00 hrs. and 24.00 hrs. there is music in the Observatory, the Night Club, the Ocean Bar and the the Morning Light Pub (ex HAL casino area)

The new singers “warming up” the captains party

Tonight was formal night with the Captains welcome on board party, which is still done in the respectable way as HAL used to do until about 2010 -2012. With a Receiving line with all of those who were going to be introduced (and yes with 10 white uniforms in a row, it feels abit like running the gauntlet), free drinks (wine, beer ,G&T, champagne), nibbles (canape’s and hot appetizers) followed by a speech from the Captain.

Captain Stefan Ravneng

We observed this Captain for the first time on the ms Balmoral when he was rather new in function and his speech and presence on stage was quite awkward. But by now, he felt more comfortable, made some jokes and his speech was running smoothly. Fred has the routine that the staff officers introduce themselves and that is great fun to see. With the staff captain being the easiest with handling the microphone, the Chief Engineer having the shortest speech of all (name and where he is from only) and the Cruise Director the longest. Then the champagne toast, followed by the announcement to get out of the lounge, to make room for the 2nd show. That results then in an enmasse march through the ship to the diningroom. They where well prepared as somehow they had managed to clear first sitting out completely by 19.45 so they could handle this 2nd sitting invasion.

We decided not to go to the show, I do not particularly enjoy comedians but to go to a concert of the strings. (see yesterdays blog) For those who sailed with Holland America longtime in the past, we then had the Rosario Strings from the Philipinnes on all the ships, one extended family, that never used sheet music but still could play anything. We have them now here on all of the ships of Fred Olsen. Tonight they had a sort of easy listening concert in the Ocean Bar, partly classical, partly crooner songs, and yes no sheet music or tablet in sight and yes they played everything by heart and to a very high standard.

The 2 male singers of the Singers group on board.

This was followed by a Country and Western hour, performed by the new singers and again, with all the family in attendance. I always have reservations about seeing english people in cowboy outfits, but they sang the songs with a nice american accent. Near the end they decided to do a line dance and then it was time to leave. There is only so much one can take, when a large number of octogenarians, fuelled by aa ample amount of (free) alchohol decide that they were 25 again. Free alchohol comes from the fact that the booze during the captains party was free and also the house wine and beer in the diningroom.

Tomorrow we are in Pauillac. We are suppoed to dock in foggy conditions at about 06.45 and then it should warm and sunny for the rest of the day, with temperatures around 21oC or 70o Fahrenheit.

An attempt at an American Line dance, on a moving ship.

Day 0: Boarding the ms Borealis. 14 April 2026.

Fred Olsen keeps refitting the Borealis, (ex Rotterdam VI) and the Bolette, (ex Amsterdam III), after they bought them from Holland America (or officially from Carnival Corporation) for US 20 million back in 2020. Carnival Corp felt it needed to get rid of all the ships in the corporate fleet that were making less then 10% yield on the ship turn over and that meant that the 4 S class ships went and also 2 R-class ships. Also the whole Ecstacy class of Carnival Cruise Lines went and a few ships of Costa Cruises as well. Carnival reduced its costs during Covid lay-up and Fred Olsen got two very good ships for an even better price. We went on the 3 day maiden voyage of the Borealis, for the start up  in 2022 and to get the painting out of the captains cabin to go back to the ss Rotterdam V in Rotterdam. Then came back to see what the Fred product looked like after a year in operation. See both write ups on this website under the heading My cruises and reviews.

The ms Borealis. (photo from wikipedia)

The Borealis went in dry dock just before its 2026 world cruise and then “she who shall be obeyed” expressed the wish to see the ship again, to inspect the latest upgrades. Thus it was decided to go on an 8 day cruise to French ports and as it includes a call at Cherbourg it meant that I could visit my favourite French Maritime Bookshop in the terminal / maritime museum. It is very hard to buy French Maritime books in England, even via the internet, as the french publishers are absolutly not interested to export to the island.

Her Ladyship had booked this cruise while on the last one so we got a good on a suite.  Hence I am now sitting in suite 7038 (portside aft, one but last) to write my daily blog. Fred did not keep the Neptune Lounge which HAL had for the suites unfortunatly , (it is now a sort of emergency command center) and that is still felt as a great ommission. The Germans who bought the Prinsendam II, now Amera, did keep the Neptune Lounge, they call it the “Gold Lounge” and it is very popular. I think if Fred had kept it, it would have been much easier for them to sell the Deck 7 cabins as it would then have offered something extra to the guests, instead of just paying for a large cabin.

Welcome on board by the Strings in the Ocean Bar. As this bar is leaning into the Atrium, the music can also be heared at embarkation level.

But being in a Suite cabin, meant that we could board at 12.30. However upon arrival we found that a lot of later boarding guests had not kept to the advised reporting time and thus the hall in front of Security was choc -a-bloc with no doubt very eager cruisers. It did not help that the lady in charge did not have a microphone, to address the murmuring crowd, resulting in a lot of confused people as her voice did not penetrate the many hearing aids around. The terminal has a P.A system but it seems to be very difficult to arrange a microphone from those in charge. We have seen the same in terminal 101 and that one is used by much larger ships and the apron there before entering the terminal proper is also very small.

The Morning LIght Loung. Which used to be the Casino with Holland America and the first thing Fred ripped out when taken over the ships in 2020.

The good ship Borealis was docked at the Southampton berth 102, the Horizon terminal, which even for only 1200 guests too small at the entrance, so it is important that guests arrive at the time mentioned on their booking and not earlier.

Check In was a fast experience until they saw my Dutch passport. Thus I needed an ETIAS, to get into Europe. This was of course not the case, as the Netherlands is part of the European Union, and it would be the same as having American Citizens needing a Visa to re-enter their own country. Then they realized  that it was about coming back and so I needed an ETA. (UK tourist visum). Not needed either as  I had a “settled status” for the UK, permanent approval to live on the island. Thus they wanted to check that. That is easy enough as long as you can access the UK Government website.  So we did, but again, the request was not correct as that information is supposed to be verified only by an “Official Authority” (like His Majesties Customs and Border Control) and the check- in ladies do not have that status. But you cannot blame them for not having been properly briefed by their boss, who obviously did not know the rules. So we googled my Settled Status file, checked the photo and all was well in the world.

When we came on board security found out that the Check-In Ladies had become so confused with the whole happening that they had entered my photo under Lesely’s name and vice-versa. So we were escorted to the Front Desk for it to be corrected and then all was well in the world. Never a dull moment when travelling.

At the gangway the whole ships staff was lined up, including the Captain, which was Captain Ravegner, whom we had met while on the ms Balmoral of Fred Olsen. (see write up on this website under cruise reviews) There we somehow then ended up at his Captains table and he then remembered that Lesley and I had entertained his whole table as he is a much more reserved Captain than I have ever been.  For this cruise, apart from 1 seaday, tomorrow, and 1 more twards the end there is a French port,everyday so I doubt if we will see him very much out-and-about.

A small show on departure from the singers on board. Slightly marred by the fact that they only faced the bar and kept their backs to the rest of the audience around the pool. The Cruise Director who was present, unfortunately did not see the need to correct this,

Suitcases had made it to the cabin in less then an hour, between Taxi and cabin door and that must be a record for Southampton for a medium size ship. But today we were the only cruise ship in so maybe they had the best trained Longshore men working the ship. We dropped our trolley’s and went for Lunch in the Lido while it was still quiet. Fred has stewards everywhere and they assign you a table when you come in ensuring the restaurant is being filled up from the back going forward. It looks a bit over the top but it works very well as it stops all the chaos of guests running around and blocking each other while occupying a table here and there. Basic wine, soft drinks and Heineken Draft Beer are free  during lunchtime an dinner. For more premium drinks you have to pay or ensure you have a drinks package. Lido Lunch is less exurburant than at Holland America. It sits somewhere just under Cunard Line and is on par with Saga Cruises. (same age group). The dessert lay-out is one of the best I have seen on Four Star ships, so kudo’s. Except, they have taken out the Soft Ice machine at the ice cream station. Maintaining those is a bit of a “pain in the a…… for the cooks but Holland America (served) and Cunard, P&O and Saga (self serve)  so even it under British Flag it must be possible.

This cruise they are changing the complete lighting in the show lounge. Also the old cast is leaving in 2 weeks and a new cast has just boarded so the ship is full of entertainment people and supporting staff.

Then it was time to check our Dining room table as that is always a challenge with Fred. They have the system that the highest repeaters (Diamond and Elite) are assigned teh best tables  the mere mortals like us can only wait to see wht we get, even when you have a Penthouse or a top suite. Then they tend to push the Penthouses and Suites into the Indian Ocean Room (the deck 8 the starboard wing, called Queens Room with Holland America) because “it is nice and quiet there”. Not many suite people like that and as a result they all move out to the main dining room and then the room is assigned to groups or travelling technicians. And those groups do not like to follow the dress code. Indeed we were assigned to this room, so time to take action. The alternative table offered was exactly the same as we had a during a previous cruise so I suspect that this  is sort of preprogrammed. But there is always a manual bypass, so we compromised on a table for 2 overlooking the ocean at the stern. For 2nd sitting at 20.00 hrs.that is not a problem as the ship will be mainly sailing South to North so no sunshine glaring into the diningroom.

Lifeboatdrill is “do it yourself” by watching the Safety Video and then go to your lifeboat outside to be checked off. Then at 17.00 hrs. the Captain came on the Tannoy with some wise and safe words, together with the Cruise Director for completing the Boat Drill requirements.

These big Holland America suites come with ample storage so unpacking was a doddle and did not upset the martrimonial peace as there are more drawers than we could possibily find use for. It is only an 8 day cruise, With the cabin comes a bottle chamapgne (the real stuff, not sprankling wine and canape’s so we had cocktails in the cabin.

All afternoon we had been on the look-out to meet our cabin stewardess but she was nowhere to be seen, No meet and greet, no cabin facility explanation, nothing. Yesterday was the end of a 70 day South America and antartic cruise and with it came a very large crew change, so maybe she was part of that. Will find out in the coming days.

Sail away was very poorly attended, due to the weather no doubt, as it was overcast with rain showers in Southampton and thus the Magrodome stayed closed. That directly affects the quality of the sound (echo’s back from the roof) and that made the interest for the cruise staff and singers acitivities minimal.

Dinner was of a good Fred standard with very fast service as on the first night, everybody “marched” as soon as the doors for 2nd sitting at 20.00 hrs. opened. Again there was free house wine, draft beer and soda’s included with dinner.  We made it more then timely to the show scheduled fot 22.00 hrs. which was a revue show with songs from the movies, such as Blues Brothers, Mama Mia and Les Mesarables, starting with  the Greatest showman music This group of performers will go home in 2 weeks time and they had their performance down pat,  after having been so long on board. Audience was very sparse as most guests had decided to retire early as it was an forward. But they did miss something very good.

Tomorrow we are at sea. Sailing south along the French coast towards  Pauillac. Weather is supposed to be a low gale (35 knots of wind) and we are going against it, so the ship will move about somewhat with combined wave and swell of up to 3 meters. Temperatures in the mid 50’s. or 14 oC.  (subject to rain and wind).

 

Day 12: Dec. 28; At Home, Verdict & Review of the cruise.

As usual, at the end of the cruise, I do a review  with our VERY PERSONAL opinion of the cruise. So if you think that Cunard is pure “Hallelujah” please do not be disappointed. If you decide to “snigger” because you do not like Cunard, please take into acccount, there is no perfect cruise company out there. If you look at all the cruises we have done in the last year, (see the write ups at the right hand side of the home page), I was able to shoot holes in each product and at the same time see things that made me go “WOW” why do other company’s not do this.

Cruising is very personal, and the bottom line for a GOOD cruise company is, did THEY deliver what they promised and did YOU enjoy it.

So we come to our personal verdict about this Cunard Cruise.

Did we enjoy the cruise YES. Would we have enjoyed it less in a lesser cabin: ALSO YES.  We had a Q3 suite, that is two steps down from the top and we expected for that level for everything to be top notch and perfect. You have a butler and a cabin steward and they try to do the best job possible. But those two can only deliver the standards set by the company. And Ludmilla and Mark did a very good job within those parameters.

The Glare: As explained when blogging about every cruise we make, this is a little thing I do during a cruise.  Every crewmemember I meet, officers and crew alike, I look them straight in the eyes and wait if they acknowledge me. The results can be quite striking.

Cunard scored only 75%. (e.g. 1 out of 4 did not make the cut). The crew on average scored 100%, no problems there. Even the sailors on deck. were chirpy and friendly and scored 100%. The challenge lies with the Hotel officers. The majority I met in the corridors, the Lido and the public rooms, looked away or did not acknowledge guests when walking by, or when talking to each other.  3 & 4 stripers in Hotel did not make the cut on average. And there is no excuse for that. If a lowly asst. steward can do it, then  a 3 stripe hotel officer should be  able to do it better. I only met two engineering officers this cruise and they were both polite, smiled and one even waited at the door, and they are normally the least customer focused.

Would I recommend a Cunard Cruise. In general yes.

It is a good product  and the only negative thing I hear from other travellers, Cunard thinks it has the most wonderful product but they are slowly overtaken by a whole slew of other operators in the luxury segment.

The are not helping themselves as they send out their post cruise questionaires “ONLY” to a number of “SELECT” guests. That way you never get the raw deal that you need to improve your product.

Main thing is you have to get used to is the system that the cabin -size is connected to a certain restaurant. That is quite posh but the extra’s given are not that wide apart anymore. There is not so much difference (compared to before Covid) between the menu’s between Queens, Princess, Club and Britannia. You just have a little bit more choice when going up from Britannia to Queens. It would not warrant the extra costs, if the larger cabins were not attached to it.

Compliments:

Beautiful ship (if you like  ships in a classical style) with beautiful lounges.

Beautiful cabins, as least on our level, but they should be better maintained. For this level of pricing, there should be nothing wrong.

Very attentive service, at least in the Queens Grill, with only two mistakes made in the whole of the 12 days and without any rushed service.

Very good and large cast company (12 in total), two orchestras (Stage and Queens Lounge) and entertainment everywhere. It resulted in Great Shows. This is a very hard working cast with a show every other night and a one full lenght musical “Come From Away” of 1h. 45 minutes as well. Great Christmas show. (not every company is doing that anymore)

Very good lectures (apart from one guy who was too sloppy in appearance and slissed when talking)

Formal nights (Although unfortunatelly not enforced in the lounges that are designated as formal)

Soft Ice Cream, self service machine in the Lido with the most consistent quality so far encountered during all our cruises.

Self Services Washing Machines on each Deck..

Challenges:

for Cunard to fix ( at least if it wants to anchor  “floating” customers like us):

The biggest one:

” On request”. Why does the guest have to ask for anything that has been paid for?…………………………… You need to have the Cunard web-site listing for your cabin level with you to ensure you get what you paid for.

“On request” ONLY was the following in a Queens Grill Cabin:

Ice in the cabin, Fresh fruit, Fresh flowers / plant . TV program, Binoculars, Instructions of how to operate the DVD player, Instructions for the coffee machine. Extra side dishes in the Queens Grill. The waiters know it is there but do not suggest anything to make the experience more perfect.

Status of the cabin. A lot of items that I found could have been corrected with better – detailed- inspections by Housekeeping. I paid a lot of money for this cabin so I did not expect that as a  guest I would have to start reporting stuff.  Wrong CD player, Glass curtains loose, Toilet seat loose, Plinths broken. Vanity buttons missing on the desk lights. With the help of the Butler and the Concierge it was all fixed but I was not not expecting to find anything wrong in a cabin of such a high catagory.

You can NOT expect the Butler and the Cabin Steward to look after all of this as they are on a very tight working schedule. This is officer and petty officer level responsibility.

Lots of carpet edges (corners and vertical padding) loose in the corridors. I counted 10 of them on deck 8 only on the first day and they were still the same on the last day. How difficult is it, to send a carpenter/Upholsterer  around with a pot of adhesive  to glue the carpets back ??. The carpet edges comes loose with luggage handling, so it happens all the time, make it a standard job for a Housekeeping supervisor to walk the corridors once a week and make a list.

Lido Restaurant. For a 5 star cruise company the amount and variation of food on offer is quite meager. If you are a cruiser who likes and spends a lot of time in the Lido Restaurant, GO or STAY with Holland America.

Internet: It is very good in general, except when the whole ship goes on line, especially on sea days. For mobile phones it all works but with laptops you loose the signal  on average between 10.00 – 11.30 and 14.30 – 16.30 on sea days, at least on Deck 6, midships staircase area. So only devices who use a small bandwidth can get on line. During those hours I can not reach my website / do my blog, as my website needs a bit more bandwith than checking Facebook.

One word of advise: If you want to sail Cunard, stay away from Queen Anne and choose one of the other 3 Queens.

The Queen Anne is a beautiful ship but Cunard has put the capacity up to 2950 and not increased the number of public rooms to handle these additional 450 guests (compared with the HAL’s Pinnacle class) so the lounges are overflowing during cocktail times.  In an ideal world, the Jewellery shop would be a lot smaller in size and in its place there would be another beautiful Cunard cocktail lounge. Talking to the guests it was mentioned that the cabins are a lot smaller and the storage space varies and is smaller but not in line with the increase in cabin size or cost. We noticed that during our two cruises but it still seems to be the case even after more cabinets were added.

That is all……………………………….  Nuntium ne necaveritis.

ps 1. My Lord and Master has booked another cruise for November 2026, going from Southampton to Zeebrugge, Amsterdam and Cherbourg on the Queen Victoria, as she wants to try the Q2 midships catagory. Q1 is of no interest as those cabins are in the bow and the stern and that is where the  movement is worst during the winter  storms.

ps 2.

It got a request from one faithful reader to explain what “yawning” is or when a ship “yaws”.  So here is a quick summary.

There are 6 ships movements officially recognized:

  • Heaving: vertical movement (the whole ship lifts up)
  • Swaying: transverse movement (lurching from left to right)
  • Surging: longitudinal movement (pushed forward and then settles back)
  • Rolling: longitudinal rotation  (leaning/ listing  from one side to the other)
  • Pitching: transverse rotation ( bow goes up, bow goes down, sometimes slams on the waves)
  • Yawing: vertical rotation (You make a sort of round movement that combines 3 or 4 of the separate movement one)

Some ships are more affected by one or the other movements than others. A ship like the Queen Mary 2, has been designed with a ships length that “rides the average length of the North Atlantic waves” and thus pitches a lot less then a smaller ship. It sort of barges through or over the waves. But without stabelizers in use she would still roll. Also her stern design makes her less prone to surging. But she also “yaws” when she gets the swell 3/4 quarter on the stern.

The  newest cruise ships, that look like a barge with an apartment building on top, “yaw” less because of the “box in the water” design. But in the wrong wave length, they can pitch considerably, so the best thing to do is then either to speed up or slow down so it hits the waves differently. The cruise ships constructed between 2002 and 2014 of which most have similar hulls as the Queen Victoria  tend to be prone to yawning and swaying as the stabelizers have a hard time handling that movement They are gyroscope controlled and that needs a change of horizon (leaning away from the horizontal) and movements other then rolling do not do that.

My personal solution to all these movements is to sit in the bar, recognize the sort of movement that is going on and then insure that my beer glass counteracts that move perfectly and thus does not spill any it’s contents.

 

I pinched this off the internet. A big thank you to FFQQ.com. There is not much difference between a cargo ship and a passengership if both are properly ballasted, so the center of gravity sits in the right place. The only difference is that most cargo ships do not have stabelizers.

 

 

Day 11, 2025 Dec. 27; At Sea, day 3.

With the Christmas festivities behind us we are now on the 3rd sea day, on the way home to Southampton. Around lunch time we will pass the most North westerly point of Normany and sail through the Traffic Separation Zone for ships at Ushant. Hence we are seeing more and more ships in the fare distance and sometimes  really nearby. As was expected yesterday the sea is more lively than before.

Weather today around noon time. We are at the edge of the yellow part – waves 3 to 4 meters, but are turning away from it now heading into the English Channel.

A last sea day is always somewhat akward for a lot of cruise passengers. It is the last day and everybody has to pack, or if one is doing a back to back finding the lounges half empty. Thoughts are about going home by half of he ship , while the other half mentally gears up for the next cruise. The Queen Victoria’s next cruise, is a new years cruise 7 days to Zeebrugge, Amsterdam and Cherbourg with docking overnight in Amsterdam for New Year’s Eve so there are quite a few on board who will stay for the next one. Then the next one after that is a 35 day voyage to the Caribbean, a so-called no-flight-cruise as it starts and ends in Southampton. That is twice crossing the North Atlantic but at both times with a route so far to the south that most likely they will be able to avoid most of the bad weather.

We followed the last talk / lecture of the Police Officer talking about Drug enforcement. This is a quite a interesting topic and as he also is a good speaker he can tell interesting anecdotes. It turned out that while defending King & Country in that business, it is not always plain sailing, nor do things always go right, nor is there always a very professionally ending. Hence great anecdotes to tell.

At noon time the Captain made his navigational announcement, ending with a very plastic Cunard Head Office Message, with advising that ONLY a few SELECTED guests would get a post cruise questionaire (I wonder what sort of selection they make ?……………..) and hinting very strongly that if we enjoyed the voyage then that we should give a 10. Normally that sort of thing is left to Cruise Director’s on the stage and thus leave the captain’s dignity in tact.

The shops had another sale going, with extra – extra discount, and either the prices were very good, or there was still a lot of On Board Credit floating around but it was busy with even a tussle between two ladies in the hand bag section.

Quick lunch and then it was time to pack. Luckily we did not buy very much this cruise but why is it always more difficult to get the same quantity as you packed at thome, back in the suitcase when on board?

Then last night we got an invite for another Captain’s party in the Queens Room, but without an explanation about why we were invited; but if there are free drinks and maybe even nibbles, who would say no?  With our invitation card in hand (to be presented at the entrance) we marched towards the Queens Room at 17.15 (start of the party) and found at least a 100 people ahead of us inside (free drinks ??) We bypassed the Captains line and grabbed a drink and watched the proceedings on the dance floor.

Again the officers were lined up around the dancefloor and again they waited for the guests to come over. Some guests did go over but it means  that all those guests who are sitting on the side and in the wings are obviously not entitled to the presence of an officer. One would expect that the officers would be roving the area being the gracious hosts. The party was called the Sr. Officers party, although there were numerous junior officers present, so one would expect that the Officers would make it a point and fan out from the center to chat with all those highrolling guests who have to sit, and who pay their salary. It was never explained to us, why we all were there, but we think that they invited the Queen and Princess Grills and the and Diamond members.

To be honest, this was a bit of a damp squidh affair, although there were canape’s, which were missing from the first party. No speech from the captain but near the end a guy in an off-white suite popped up and made a short speech, which seemed to be the moment that all  the officers were allowed to disappear and they did. He then wished us a good continuation of our party, which had now turned to a Sr. Officer Party, without any officers. The captain was still there, gathering up his wife and 3 children. He saw me and we were thus able to say goodbye and thank him for his hospitality. He said he had been reading my daily blog and agreed with my weather charts. I hope he also agreed with the cabin repairs I enacted.

We decided not to go to the last show as it will be an early morning tomorrow and we had to pack the final items to make sure that all suitcases had the same weight. Weather in Southampton tomorrow calls for partly cloudy skies, with a temperature of 7oC but with a windchill factor that might bring it down to 5 or 4oC. But as long as I do not have to de-ice the car windows, I am already a happy camper.

This is the one but last blog of the cruise. On Monday, my “Final Verdict & Review”, will follow.  However with coming back to Southampton this 12 day cruise will have ended.  Our next cruise will be in February 2026 with Viking Cruises, so I hope that you will be following us again.

In the mean time: A very happy New Year and  Lesley and I wish you all a prosperous, healty and peaceful 2026.

 

 

Day 10, 2025 Dec. 26; At Sea. Day 2.

This morning we woke up to a slighty moving ship with a movement that a sailor calls “gentle” but a landlubber calls “annoying”. But the weather chart stays positive and the Bay of Biscay and surroundings remained very gentle, or -blue- on the chart.  So happy campers all around today.

Weather / sea forecast for today.

This is our second day at sea since leaving the Canaries Islands. 2nd Day of Christmas, called Boxing Day, as in England that used to be the official day of opening the “boxes” with the presents. Most of the crew finds this very funny as in their cultures they open their presents during Christmas Eve. So the joke of the day was, “have you been boxing ?”

As a reference to last night for those who do not know what Christmas “crackers” are. These are paper tubes and you pull at each side, with the person opposite to you at the dinner table. They then come apart with a “crack”.. Inside there is a paper crown (referring to the 3 kings of bethlehem) and the idea is to wear them during the christmas dinner. Inside is also a present, the quality depending on how expensive the cracker is. We had a honey stick, a wooden stirrer to get the last honey out of a honey pot & and a small steel cake form to make christmas cookies. Then there is the (rather naff) Christmas joke. “What sort of nut can you use to hang something on the wall ?……………. a wall-nut.

After breakfast we went for a walk-a-bout and ended up with a Q&A interview from the Cruise Director with our Lady Orchestra Conductor. Which was interesting to listen to as not many of us really know what goes on inside an orchestra. Unfortunately, no “juicy” anecdotes to liven it all up, but still very interesting. One could see that she is a real conductor and not an entertainer.

We made it early to lunch to day as we were sort of pressed for time as at 13.30 hrs. we had the 4th. and last recital of Robin Colville the piano player and we did not want to miss that. After that there was a full 1h.45 min. musical show in the Theatre at 16.00 hrs. which Lesley did not want to miss. I never know if my “cultural time span” can last that long, so we investigated first if we could find some places to sit, where she had a good view and I could slip away if to all got too much.

The Maestro explaining his first piece and on the balcony two saiors (the dark shapes in the corner under the saffolding) tying up the steps. Life is never dull on a cruise ship.

The piano recital was very good as usual but as it had been pushed to 13.30 it sort of interfered with the ships routine. While the Maestro was explaining the background of his first piece, above him on the balcony, suddenly “swish-swish’ could be heard caused by two sailors securing a scalfolding with pulling ropes through. Luckily they saw the light and did not start working, while below Griegs Solveits Song burst out of the piano. Then half way through the concert a steward came by with a trolley with rattling crockery. He had to go in the pantry in the back to prepare for English High Tea at 15.00 hrs. After the plates had been transfered to their locker, he switched on the pantry light (luckily there was a pole between the pantry and the stage so the performance was not affected). And then he switched on the heating cabinet (I think for warming up the teapots). Now all of us in the back could listen to Griegs First Piano Concerto accompanied by electric humming from a pantry. This was most likely a worlds first: ” Variations on Grieg’s Piano Concert no.1 by a Heating Cabinet”. ……….. I love to be part of World First premieres…………………………….

After the concert we walked past the shops and suddenly they were busy. This occurence happens near the end of the cruise and is called “The On Board Credit Effect”. If you got spending credit with your cruise and have not spent it, then now is the chance. The shops responded accordingly with 15% extra discount on certain items. We have run out of on board credit already, courtesy of cocktails every evening and the daily internet cost, so my bank account will take another hit when we leave the ship.

For the latter we got the luggage tags today. Cunard has the system that you have to pull off the old tags and then you get new ones and hence new ones were delivered. There are also companies who tell you to leave the tags on, as it incorporates the disembarkation color. Disembarkation time depends on what sort of cabin you have, or if you are independent or have scheduled transport. With our cabin level we can leave at any time, so we will aim for 08.03 off the ship, with the taxi waiting to take us back to the hotel at 09.00 to collect the car. Then I hope to be on the way by 10.am as it is a 5 hr. drive home, plus stopping for petrol and groceries.

The poster being used in the UK for this musical

Today we had a special cast / stage performance of a musical/play called “Come from Away”, telling the story of the little Newfoundland town of Gander that suddenly had to host 7000 air plane passengers when the USA closed its airspace when 9/11 occured. Doubling the size of the town when a large number of planes deviated to their old airport. The whole effort lasted1h.45m, and there was a full house. One at 16.00 hrs. and one at 20.00 hrs. And it was really, really good, with  a well deserved standing ovation at the end.

This picture comes from a website advertising the musical in the UK. There is a scene in there, “Kiss the Fish”, which is a tongue in cheek ceremony to become a “NewFoundlander’.  The town of Gander granted “membership” to all stranded passengers who were there and agreed to “kiss the fish”.

According to those who had seen the performance in London with “real professionals” and paid a high ticket price for the privilige, advised that this one here on board was soo much better. And I am not amazed as with the plethora of (large) cruise ships out there, the stage shows and its actors are getting better every year as the supporting teams behind them are getting more and more professional and better financed. Again no photos from the show itself, as somebody will  get upset when you do so……………..

Then it was cocktail time and we met Pamela Curtis. This was the Lady who was the highest repeater this cruise with 1250+ days. I posted the photo on day 3 when she got the flowers during the Captains Loyalty party. That photo was seen by my blog readers in Los Angeles, who then contacted Mrs. Curtis to let her know that she was now world famous. She then contacted me to meet for a  drink and a chat. Hence tonight. This is for my readers in Los Angeles.

Cocktail Time in the Commodore Club with the highest day repeater on board,

Tomorrow is our 3rd sea day, passing the coast of Normandy and then entering the outer reaches of the English Channel (or La Manche in French, as we are on the French side). Looking at the weather chart and knowing the way a Vista Class ship behaves, I think we will get some more movement. Not really rolling or pitching but more of the yawning movement that we also had south bound. It should not affect anybody very much as we all had enough training southbound.

Day 9, 2025 Dec. 25; At Sea.

On departure the Captain announced that we would have a smooth ride home, only somewhat marred by a strong wind on the bow. In general he was right. The sea swell was not predicted to go above 3 meters and that is something a Signature/Vista class ship can handle without too much issue.  However where there is 3 meters, there is also 3.5 meters and 2.5 meters and hence the ship was not completely still in the water.  I think the guests who occupied the cabins at the stern, did not completely agree with the captains assessment as there was some movement; and around lunch time today the ship was even pitching  But compared with going south at the beginning of the cruise we are having an easy ride.

The sea state expected today. It is still mainly blue. and that is good.

We opened our Cunard presents this morning and found two nice christmas balls for the tree at home and two christmas crackers with inside white and brown truffles. And the card from the company. Lesley and I have stopped giving each other presents a long time ago as after so many years of marriage we already have everything and if not, the wish is so electic that both would buy the wrong present. Hence  you could say that this cruise was our christmas present. And a very nice one, albeit a very expensive one.

The presents we found on our bed last night. Nothing “big” but nice to receive as a souvenir. The teddybear on the christmas ball is dressed in a Cunard Bell-boy custome.

After breakfast in the cabin (not that we are so posh but it is the best way to stay away from a very calorific breakfast), we had a walk around and were just in time to see Father Christmas arriving in the Atrium. This ritual is nearly the same on every ship. Santa Claus suddenly pops up out of the funnel greeted by as many screaming children as possible (we do not have that many on board this cruise but they still were capable of making a lot of noise). Then it goes in parade into the ship, at a distance followed by  the parents, as not every little Johnny stays with the group. Some of them see this as a chance to explore somewhere he has not been yet and then needs to be scooped up by Pa or Ma.

Santa Claus in the Atrium, flanked by his elf and two “snow persons”.

Cunard uses the Atrium for these occasions as Santa can sit on top of the stairs and thus can be approached that way by the childeren but also a lot of guests can have a look down from one of the 3 levels and at the same time do not need to stay for the whole “procedure”. Also adults were invited to have their photo taken with Santa Claus, an Elf, and two “snow persons”. Quite a few still felt like children at heart……….

At 10 am. The captain hosted the Festival of The Carols and Lessons in the main Theatre. This is a typical english thing, grounded in the fact that the King is the head of the English Church. On the ship the Captain is his representative and thus assumes that title of head of the church as well. Therefore it has been a long tradition on the British ships that the Captain leads the Sunday Morning church service on board.  On the British cruise ships this tradition is still here and the Captain still heads the service, at least when sundays are at sea. For Christmas, this service had been padded out somewhat with carols and the Master of the Vessel reading “The Lesson”. There is a merchant navy prayer & sermon book out there, so if there is a Captain, who is not so familiar with the spiritual side of life, then there are templates that can be followed.

That was as much christmas as we could find, the rest of the morning had the standard items, with dancing in the Queens Lounge, Shops sales, Casino open, etc., followed by the next music recital by Maestro Robert Colville, who did not disappoint and even did two encores  (Highland Chatedral and Variations on Lambeth Walk) so he over ran the alloted time. That caused several of the audience to leave because when it is time to choose between culture and lunch, …………………………………….guess what wins.

His Majesty the King, Charles II of Great Britain & the British Commonwealth. The general focus of his speech was on working together and reconsiliation.

By 15.00 hrs. a lot of guests were assembling in the Royal Court Theatre to listens to the “Kings Speech”. For me of dual persuation, feeling British after 32 years but still having a Dutch perspective on life, I always feel it necessary to follow both.

His Majesty King Willem Alexander of the Kingdom of the Netherlands spoke about cherishing of what connects us. Our mutual responsibilities, Our Democracy, Our Rights of Law and Our Environment. And the need to instill these values into our children.

No doubt the other Kings and Queens of Europe had similar messages for their loyal subjects in a world that is getting ever more polarized and less repsectful of each other.( I do not know if there is a International Queen & King conference before christmas but it would make sense as most of the contents of these speeches were similar but with a local tweak)

So with these  Royal Reflections,  I hope 2026 will be a better year.

The crew had their christmas downstairs, also received presents from Cunard, and had Santa Claus downstairs for photos.  Upstairs the afternoon was the regular seaday routine with offerings from all the concessionaires and then by 17.00 hrs. cocktail time geared up again.  Tonight was formal night with a theme of Red & Gold. Looking around the ship, quite a few of the ladies, including my Lord & Master, had found a dress with red & gold. I could join in with a red jacket and gold cumberbund & bow tie, but in general the Gents where less brave than the Ladies. (Although I saw a few gentlemen in very fancy jackets). As mentioned before, we normal go to the Commodore Club for cocktails and 99%  were in formal, and about 60% color themed. The amplifier challenge from last night had been fixed and tonight we had a Duo, called the “Radio Duo” with smooth songs.

Christmas dinner was a variation on the christmas dinner but (I assume) re-imagined by Top Chef Michael Roux so a lot of the trimmings were not present. But we had fancy christmas crackers to pull.

The Lavelles. Three British Ladies who gave a very nice show. They will do another one later on in the Queens Lounge. (Photo Courtesy from somewhere on  the internet, a poster of when the Ladies were performing)

The show tonight was  a group of three Ladies “the Lavelles” who sang Motown hits from the 1980’s etc. And they were very good. Motown is not my first choice but the songs were belted out on “full volume” and high energy.  This was followed by a short performance from the cruise staff and cast with the 12 days of Christmas. The nice thing of this song is, that if it is done right, it goes completly wrong and ends up in complete mayhem. We were not disappointed………. and it was good fun to watch. Unfortunately I cannot show photos as there was this voice on the Tannoy again, advising everybody that recording was strictly forbidden. As mentioned before, I will never understand that.

Tomorrow is our 2nd day at sea, and the weather looks very good. Smooth seas, hardly any wind and with only a low swell running. Tenperatures are slowly dropping and by the time we reach Southampton, it will be down to 6 or 7o Celcius.

 

 

Day 6, 2025 Dec. 22; Santa Cruz de Tenerife. (Now in Spain)

We trundeled down from Funchal on the island of Madeira, to Santa Cruz de Tenerife on the island of Tenerife with the gentle speed of 15 knots, adjusting arrival there to suit the local authorities with their preference for the ferries. This can be quite irritating at times, because if a ferry is delayed, then other ships still have to wait. I experienced that myself once with an extra wait of up to 45 minutes, while everybody could see (including the Harbourmasters office as they have radar) that the ferry in question was still almost an hour away. Our maneuver would have only taken 20 minutes, so we would have been out of the way well in time, but “higher” insights (the harbourmaster sits in a tower high up ……) prevailed and we had to wait. Today the Cunard Victoria was not suffering from that but it was still tight as the gangways were only going out just at 10.00 hrs. and ships complement (security and shore excursion) normally prefer a little bit more time to get “their shop” set up properly. Luckily we did not have to wait for clearance as we were sailing from Portugal to Spain, both in the European Union.

Part of the (large) port of Santa Cruz. Opposite are two ferries with in the middle the ms Costa Fortuna. To the far left one can just see the bridge wing of the ms Ventura. The first white ship is a Car Ferry which was the one causing all the arrival challenges. The much smaller one, in the far corner, is a Fast Catamaran operated by Fred Olsen Lines on an inter island service.

We were far from being alone today. The Canaries are a hot spot for cruise ships nowadays as the islands can be reached from Europa in 2+ days, so guests can avoid having to fly, and if they fly, it is mostly a short flight and then you can do 7 ports in 7 days.  So today the following ships shared the rainly weather with us: the ms Ventura (P&O), the ms Costa Fortuna (Costa Cruises), the Mein Schiff 3 (Tui-Germany), and a small one, the ms La Belle des Oceans of only 5000 tons, she sat tucked away under the stern of the Mein Schiff 3, which is 20 times bigger.  This little one was built for the Japanese market as Oceanic Grace, back in 1989 and after a whole slew of owners, now  sails for Croisi Europe and is on a 7 day cruise around the Canary Islands. So a busy day in port with around 10,000 guests ashore, not counting crew.

The entrance to the Britannia Diningroom. It all looks in very good condition after 18 years of service.

Her Ladyship went ashore to have coffee with the wife of the Chief Engineer of the ms Ventura as they sailed together on the ms Sea Princess (formerly ms Kungsholm) back in the 1980’s. Who does still remember that ship ??  That gave me the time to go around the Victoria as most guests had raced ashore as soon as the gangway was out. Rain or no Rain.  The Queen Victoria has not changed much on the inside since 2007, no “Signature of Excellence” upgrades as HAL has been doing, but carpets had been replaced on a regular basis and the ship has been kept in a very good condition. Next dry dock is in the Autumn of next year and then they do have to do a lot of work on Movie – media etc. as they are running far behind with it compared to the competition.

The theatre as seen from the stage. This is the view an entertainer has when looking at the audience.

A Lounge which I really like is the main show lounge, called the Royal Court Theatre. Laid out as a London theatre from the 1920’s it gives an old fashionished and comfortable feeling  of “yes we will be entertained here”.

One of the murals outside showing the Shaftesbury Theatre, There are several of these located around the entrances to the Theatre.

They only thing that has misfired somewhat (Not Cunards fault) are the private boxes that you can hire for the evening (bellboy escort, champagne and nibbles). A very nice idea but then came the American ADA act which required the railings to be higher and of course to a height whereby the railing is just in your eye view. Cunard tried to avoid this by putting perspex in but this gives a distorted view so only the 2 upper seats in each box can peer over the rim and then it is still not great.  Also you watch the show under an angle  and that is not to everybodies taste. Hence my wife and I opt for the centre seats on the first elevation.

One of the theatre boxes. This is one of the best ones, as it almost views straight forward.

Moving on, behind the theatre on deck 3 is the Royal Arcade, e.g. the shopping area. On the starboard side it has a large store for the liquor, parfume and jewellery and on the same side but past the Queens Lounge it is the Bookshop (about 50% books and about 50% crips and candy). When the Queens came out, books were still a important source of revenue but that has diminished year by year. On the portside is the clothing and hand bag store store with just around the corner the “Cunard Collection” store with Cunard logo wear. Most bought item here (apart from fridge magnets) are the Teddybears, which are different for each ship. I do not know if the shops are doing well, they  never seem to be very busy (except for the liquor sales) but hopefully it works for them. The shops are run by a concession called Hardings and as is normal in the cruise business they pay a fixed daily fee, based on the number of guests on board, to the cruise company.  There are several of these company’s out there, but Hardings, Starboard. Effy and Duffry are the best known ones.

Overview of “The Arcade”. Shops on either side.

Below the shops is the Casino on the portside and the Golden Lion Pub (named after the golden lion in the cunard logo) on the right hand side. The casino is not very big as most British do not gamble. The Golden Lion is bigger than the Casino because most British do like a drink.  The latter space is designed, so it resembles of what most people think a British Pub should look like. At lunch time it also serves Pub-Grub, or pub food, but see my write up of a few days ago, since the menus have been “re-imagined” by Star chef Michael Roux there is not much “Pub” left in the “Grub”.

The Golden Lion Pub, inner side looking aft. There is a small bandstand, and the whole place is about 4 x bigger than seen on the photo. I have been to many a pub in the UK, but never have seen one with so much “chesterfield” leather chairs. Although I am all in favor of it.

When her ladyship came back, it turned out that they had been talking so much, that lunch had been forgotten, so I was dispatched to get something to eat from the Lido Buffet. They were just gearing up for “afternoon tea”.   This is a trademark service of Cunard,  English – High Tea- in the afternoon.  Queens & Princess Grill, get served in the Princess Grill, and the rest of the ship can go to the Queens Lounge. But that has limited capacity and thus waiting lines form. Plus guests who had their tea and finger sandwiches tend to linger, which can make the Queens Lounge a flustrating experience if you are not early. So there is also the Lido Restaurant. The finger sandwiches and cakes you have to get from the Buffet counter, but Ladies go around serving the tea. (This is english “Ceylon” tea, so not too strong, but it tends to thicken and gets darker if the pot of tea is not poored fast enough). It is a wonderful tradition that is nowadays  copied by a lot of companies.  The only problem is that, the brain always wants to eat more than the body feels it is ready to accept. ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, But such are the cruising problems in life.

This is another of my favourite lounges and very personal. You need to be into books to see how special this is. The Mary, Lizzie and Vicky still have a  the full library lay-out. On the Anne, although a bigger ship, it is already much less, but still better than on many other luxury ships out there. This two level library with comfortable seats, has a large selection of books, paperback exchange and magazines,  and all is executed in dark mahogany.  Attended for part of the day by a Librarian who also acts as the “internet guru”.

We decided not to go out for cocktails this evening as we had this bottle of sprankling wine from last night. So our butler provided a champagne bucket with ice and together with the 5 pm. canape’s, all was well in the world. Dinner in the Queens Grill was lightly attended again and then we went for the show.  Tonight it was “Sounds of London”, focusing on songs of artists connected to the London area. (Elton John, Adele etc.) For this show they had beefed up the cast  to six singers and even the dancers were singing (or at least giving a very good impression of doing so).  Unfortunately I cannot post any photos as there was once again, this person on the tannoy who advised no photos, no video, no recording.  It is a copyright issue, but it does not make sense to me in a practical way as those who want to record/take a photo will do it anyway, and the artists miss a great opportunity for free advertising.

A few days ago I posted a picture of the Christmas village in the  Queens Lounge. The ship has two more of these displays, albeit smaller, and they are in the Lido. This is one of them.

Tommorrow we are in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, another island of the Canaries, some 87 nautical miles away. It will be a parade as the Mein Schiff 3 and the Ventura will also be there. Weather: dry and partly overcast. Temperatures around 18- 20oC / 65 – 70oF.

 

 

 

 

Day 5, 2025 Dec. 21; Funchal, Madeira. (Still in Portugal)

And thus the good ship Queen Victoria docked without any challenges in Funchal, Madeira. Also the ms Ventura had been able to find the place and was docked ahead of us. Reason for that, was, that she had to race out at departure  to get to Santa Cruz de Tenerife and to get in ahead of the ferries. More about that later tommorrow.

The ms Ventura and ms Queen Victoria docked at the Breakwater.

With two large ships in, the south breakwater dock was nearly full. A number of years ago they built another cruise ship dock on the north side of the port, accessed from the main boulevard. Today there was nobody there but it is often used by the Germans (Tui and Aida) as a turn over port. It would have been nice to dock there as that would have avoided having to use a shuttle bus, or having to walk around the whole port to get to the same location.  That new dock is nice but it is the first time that I have seen a cruise ship dock at a pier with a small hotel and a museum on top. That museum is dedicated to the world wide known footballer (soccer player in the American langage) Cristiano Ronaldo who was born in Funchal.  It makes sense that they have a museum for him (although he is still alive and plays) as he is the most famous Madeirian ever.

Ronaldo’s Museum. Quite a few young boys were hovering around in football shirts and taking photos with his statue outside the entrance.

We waited for the exodus on the gangway to subside somewhat. To enable the exodus properly, there were 2 gangways for going out (only one on return) and so we made it ashore by 11.30. The initial plan was to get the yellow hop-on-hop off  Bus for a tour. The busses left from the ship but as it was overcast and thus without a burning sun, we decided to walk into town. We both have been around the island several times but downtown itself was a sort of white spot. Knowing that on Sunday the regular shops are mainly closed we navigated along the boulevard and then went up the hill.

The Funchal Christmas Market. The stands were the same as in any other city, Food, Drink (banana beer ?!) and arts and crafts. Anything were the flower shops, what one does not see very often in the more Northern Cities.

Here we came across a very nice christmas market; which felt wrong for one thing. NO snow.  With global warming we will have to get used to that in Nothern Europe as well but it still felt strange. But we had the chance to see Pointsettias in their natural habitat as in a lot of countries it is THE christmas flower. (On board the Queen Victoria the whole ship is full of them) In the Netherlands the flower/plant is even called “Kerstster” (Christmas Star). Music was provided by a local brassband, made up of various ages. Funny or unusual was, as long as we were around we did not hear a  single christmas song.  They played what I call “Salsa”, upbeat dancing music, arranged for a brass orchestra.  But they sounded very good.

The local brass band. One would expect christmas music but they played Salsa themed brass.

From there we found a Shopping Mall open, where the central plaza was given over to mainly coffee shops all with small terraces. In anglo saxon countries you mainly see food courts here but Portuguese people like to step out and have a coffee and chat to family and friends. As in many Southern European countries, a lot of the local life takes place outdoors and Madeira is no different. After exploring the local super market, average prices 1 euro dearer than on the continent  (most foodstuff have to be imported, as this is an island, so there are extra transport costs but compatible with the UK in prices. (Which is also an island but much closer to Europe but now has to deal with BREXIT import red tape and that drives up the price)

The whole boulevard was covered in this stringlights. I do not know if this was just for christmas or the whole year around, but it must have looked very nice in the evening time, for a boulevard stroll.

Back on board  we got ready for cocktails and this evening we had the Ukrainian classical trio playing. The three Ladies  are very talented and a delight to listen to. I think their english was too limited to say anything,  as often is done by musicians in an informal music setting, but they played and they played and that is what it is all about of course.  When we made it to dinner, we found that the Queens Grill was half empty, which is quite unusual. As we all have our own fixed table, guests arrive at different times but normally everybody is in by 20.00 hrs. So either we had a lot of exhausted guests who after Funchal could not handle a full dinner experience, or they went casual with a visit to the Lido or to one of the specialiities restaurants.  (Bamboo Restaurant in the Lido or the Verandah Steakhouse  on deck 3)

Mr. Mate Racz, violin player extra ordinaire. (*)

Then it was off to the show. Tonight we had a violinist who was giving a “Rock Symphonies” show with violin music fusion from  Vivaldi to Queen Rockband and to Wizard of Ozz. His name was Mate Racz and he is the other half of the Falmenco Show we had two days earlier. And boy…… was he good. Classically schooled (6 years in London and then assignments in Vienna etc.) and then he teamed up with the flamenco danser  (google his name or Duo Escensias) and are now touring worldwide.  He was the first peformer who got a standing ovation (as far as the guests could get out of their seats) this cruise for an entertainers performance.

Tomorrow we are in Santa Cruz de Tenerife in the  Canaries, with The Canaries being  Spanish Islands off the African west coasts.  We will dock around 10 am. as we have to wait for the ferries to come in as they have preference. Weather for tomorrow: Overcast with a 30% of rain, and temperatures around 18oC/ 65oF. So perfect sightseeing weather.

(*this is a stock photo of the internet as we are not allowed to take photos during the show)

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