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Ocean Liner History and Stories from the Sea, Past and Present. With an In Depth focus on Holland America Line

13 September 2013; Glacier Bay, Alaska.

It looked good when we arrived at the entrance of the bay. The clouds were halfway up the mountain and it was dry with good visibility. We were all confident that we would have a nice day in the upper bay. Behind us was the Carnival Miracle, exactly on schedule, as was the Ranger boat. Thus we could continue our journey without any issue. In general the whale sightings have gone down in the bay, apart from a cluster in the northwest lower bay, west of the steamer track. That means that we can still see the whales but they are not where we normally sail and thus we can go a bit faster. As explained in previous blogs those speeds are regulated by the National Park based on daily sightings. That works out very well as near the end of the season the whales seem to cluster more together. Maybe because there is food there or because they have more time for socializing. But there is always one who does not conform and thus we keep a sharp look out.

With the whales moving out of the way, the orcas are moving in. For the last three visits we have seen one large pod, or two small pods together, cruising around near our steamer track. Orcas are not a problem for the safe navigation; they are very agile in their movements react quickly to any sound and always swim aside when a ship is coming closer. The distance they then maintain is almost as if they are having a good look at us.  Looking at that strange blue metal box with all these multi colored little figures leaning out, clicking away with little square thingies.

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At the Y fork, going right is Tarr Inlett with Marjorie Glacier and going left you have John Hopkins Inlet and Glacier.

As we were the first ones in the bay, we could keep our regular schedule and sailed straight for Marjorie Glacier. The Carnival Miracle then took the opposite route and went first to John Hopkins Inlet.  Going up the bay takes about 3 hours and in that period the Rangers and the Indian Representative give their lectures and man a desk in the crow nest. Then the scenic part starts with a commentary by one of the two Rangers on board.

We found a nice open spot in front of Marjorie Glacier and with the clouds moving all the way up the mountain we could see Marjorie Glacier leading all the way up the Fairweather Mountain Range.  It is not often that we have this good a view. The sun broke through and it turned into a glorious day. Maybe the best one of the season. Marjorie played her part and did some calving and that made it perfect.  After I had done my balcony maneuver, so that portside and starboard side balcony’s each had 20 minutes towards the glacier, we left after an hour heading for John Hopkins Inlet.

The pilots were in contact with each other and when we came close the Miracle was working its way out. That was not easy as the ice was spreading itself all over the Inlet due to the ebbing tide. The flood had kept it all nice and dense together but with the ebb now running it started to come out of the bay.  Still, we could get around the corner into the Bay and made a slow spin there giving the guests an awesome view of John Hopkins Inlet with at the end of the bay: the enormous John Hopkins Glacier.  It is a very active glacier and thus the large amounts of ice in the Inlet. Too much to go deep into the bay, but for the view it really does not matter where you are, as long as you can see the whole inlet.

By 2 pm it was time to slowly work our way out again, so we could get back to the Ranger Station for 17.00 hrs as scheduled.  It had been a glorious day, it had been a majestic day, and the scenery had just been awesome. On the way down the wildlife continued to pop up, and everybody had the chance to see it all. Mountains, ice and animals.

Tonight and tomorrow we will be crossing the Gulf of Alaska. This is the time of the year when the storms are breaking loose but it looks that we are going to be lucky. There is a nasty depression to the south but it looks like that it is going to stay there.  It will mean that we will have a slowly pitching ship, riding the low Pacific waves coming in, but as we are going slow, it should not be uncomfortable. It will be a lot better than you see on TV during the deadliest catch.

Approaching John Hopkins Inlet before entering the ice .Photo courtesy Hotel Director Bert van Mackelenbergh 

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2 Comments

  1. Beautiful picture…almost seems unreal! Thank you for sharing this and from yesterday, the info on ‘paying out the ropes’…quite interesting.

    It’s apparent Captain Albert, you really love what you do–hope your guests truly appreciate the way you enhance their cruise vacations!

  2. Missed Career at Sea

    September 23, 2013 at 9:13 pm

    Pity, pity our gang didn’t see this much of the inlet last year. Thanks to your Hotel Director Bert v.M. again that your readers can have a good look on the screen together with your fortunate cruisers of this day.

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